Problems with E-stop in 20a single element build

I just completed my 110v 20A single element control panel following PJ's diagram shown. For some reason the E-stop switch is triggering my GFCI in both open and closed positions. The GFCI pops as soon as I plug in my panel regardless of the E-stop being open or closed. If I remove the E-stop from the configuration it does not throw my GFCI into fault. I've tested the E-stop switch for continuity, in the open position there is no current between the poles. There is only current when the switch is depressed and contacts closed. Has anyone experienced something similar? I really want to brew a batch this weekend but would like to work this out first. Thanks!

when you test the switch, did you mean to see there is no continuity between the poles in the open position?

is this an illuminated e-stop switch?

Correct, in the open position (not depressed) I get nothing between the poles. This the the same switch depicted in the diagram, the SW6 from Auberins non-illuminated. Thanks.

do you have another switch you could try? even a plain ol' light switch would work. you may be reading no continuity but it takes very little current to trip the gfci, you may have a real tiny amount of continuity. testing another switch may help pinpoint the problem.

I'll drop a light switch in there tomorrow morning, maybe my switch is bad?

FreshBrew said:

maybe my switch is bad?

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not a common thing but it can happen

Check your GFCI wiring

i was thinking the same thing, the neutral being hooked up wrong but he says it works fine when the e-stop is pulled out. if it was wired incorrectly, the gfci would trip as soon as he turned on the power, whether the e-stop was there or not.

I cannot help beat the horse on this, but since the previous 6 posters didn't, I will be the bad guy...

You should not use an E-stop to purposely trip a GFCI. This is an incorrect application, and a flaw in PJ's otherwise solid drawings.

There, I did it. Carry on!

-BD

BrunDog said:

I cannot help beat the horse on this, but since the previous 6 posters didn't, I will be the bad guy...

You should not use an E-stop to purposely trip a GFCI. This is an incorrect application, and a flaw in PJ's otherwise solid drawings.

There, I did it. Carry on!

-BD

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oh, i'm with you, just seems like one of those things that has been beaten to death.

BrunDog said:

I cannot help beat the horse on this, but since the previous 6 posters didn't, I will be the bad guy...

You should not use an E-stop to purposely trip a GFCI. This is an incorrect application, and a flaw in PJ's otherwise solid drawings.

There, I did it. Carry on!

-BD

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Oh no he dint!

Hey, is that a vizsla in your avatar?

Didn't look closely at the circuit diagram but for future reference I found out while making a 240v electric boil system with a spa box and a switch so you can either brew or use the dryer off the same circuit is that they don't work well together. Fortunately I had enough capacity to give them each their own 30amp circuit.

passedpawn said:

Oh no he dint!

Hey, is that a vizsla in your avatar?

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Oh yes I did!

And yes it is! He was my boy for 12 years, unfortunately had to put him down from heart failure and complications from cushings disease. He was ridiculously loyal, energetic, and intelligent! Great breed!

-BD

BrunDog said:

Oh yes I did!

And yes it is! He was my boy for 12 years, unfortunately had to put him down from heart failure and complications from cushings disease. He was ridiculously loyal, energetic, and intelligent! Great breed!

-BD

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Nothing better. My girl watched some TV with me tonight. Best dog ever. My viszla is 7.

itsnotrequired said:

oh, i'm with you, just seems like one of those things that has been beaten to death.

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I've still got bruises on my forehead...

Per a recommendation from someone here I used a e-stop type button/switch as a main power cutoff. It has two NC blocks on it so one block controls all the switches and lights on the front panel and the other block controls a relay to cutoff the element.

Just to follow up - I ran a regular light switch this AM and it works as it is supposed to. The E-Stop switch is faulty, Auber told me on Friday they would replace it if needed. Thanks.

Now to address my loud buzzing contactor, replacement on the way already.

FreshBrew said:

Just to follow up - I ran a regular light switch this AM and it works as it is supposed to. The E-Stop switch is faulty, Auber told me on Friday they would replace it if needed. Thanks.

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glad to hear you got it ironed out. based on your description of the problem, i couldn't imagine it being anything other than the switch.