Kegs and their benefits to the brewer

WortMonger · Jan 30, 2008

Ok, I wanted to take the time and write about different types/styles of kegs and their wonderful use for the home brewer. This is an ode to kegs (so to speak), whose availability has been the home brewer's first tracks into straying from the "bottling only" ways many of us started this fine hobby.

Kegging for most of us that have made the leap (both monetarily and storage space-wise) has been a blessing from having to bottle 60-12oz bottles for every 5 gallon batch. For some brewers, bottling is an enjoyable part of this hobby. For the rest of us bottling is either a deterrent from the hobby, or just a big pain in the butt (which is why I no longer bottle). Bottling is still needed from time to time for gifts/competitions/swaps/etc. However, bottling is a process many of us have chosen to forego in that kegs are so much easier and less time consuming to fill.

WortMonger · Jan 30, 2008

The first thought I had when wondering about kegs was cost. They are pricey compared to collecting bottles. The next thoughts I had were, what is my time worth? What do you think has more of a chance of accidentally getting an infection 60 bottles or one keg? Which one is easier to prime? Well, a keg wins in everything except price. You need a bottling bucket with bottles and tons of caps, not to mention the filling cane and the capper. Cleaning and sanitizing all those bottles is a pain also. A keg, on the other hand, is its own bottling bucket. You simply add priming sugar, and then add your beer. Seal it up, and seat it with pressure to naturally carbonate just like in the 60 bottles you would have done. You have just saved yourself a possible (? in 60) chance of having a bottle bomb/flat beer/or worse-infected beer, all by putting it in one vessel. In the chance you added to much sugar a keg can take the pressure without becoming a hopped grenade of glass and then tears. With too less sugar give it another go. As for infection, if you are clean in your process you have nothing to worry about, but there is the possibility of the whole 5 gallons having to be poured down the drain. This is a risk I am willing to take as opposed to hours of preparation needed for bottling.

Cleaning is an issue that commonly comes up from newcomers to the process. Well for any question keg cleaning related, I have only a couple of words to say. PBW and Oxy-Clean are both excellent for cleaning kegs or carboys. The first time I used Oxy-Clean I was truly amazed. A simple soak overnight and the gunk had disappeared. So, past saying that kegs are easy to clean, you should rinse thoroughly and use your favorite no-rinse sanitizer as your last steps to have a completely clean keg.

Now that we know we have clean kegs to use, we can discuss the different types available to the home brewer. I would also like to point out some specifics about the differences in the types and styles that are there for our use. I will start with the most readily available of the styles/types to the home brewer. This style is called the Cornelius Keg.

The Cornelius style keg (also known as Cornies or Corny (‘s)) is the most popular keg in the home brewing world.

They are easy to buy from home brew supply shops and were used by the soft drink companies so they are in great number making them easy to find. These kegs are easy to open and inspect for cleanliness with a pail-like lock down lid that seals from inside out. They do have some draw backs though, in my opinion. Cornies have two posts on the top side that require different types of connections. These two posts have dip tubes on the inside of the keg from the posts. One of these dip tubes goes to the bottom of the keg for liquid removal from the keg. The other dip tub is much shorter and only goes an inch into the inside of the keg. This is the posts for gas to come into the keg. These connections are either ball or pin-lock,

and that depends on which brand of keg you bought. Coke brands tend to be pin-lock, and Pepsi brands tend to favor ball-lock. Both of these are not my favorite and because there are two types of connections it makes it difficult without planning to transfer between kegs or other instances when using the different types together. Cornies come in several sizes (2.5, 5, 7.5, 10, and 15), but the 5 gallon is the most popular size. Cornelius might be the most popular, but there is another style that I would like to mention because it is actually the most popular style for beer in general. This style would be called the Sanke.

The Sanke keg style is the industry standard as far as breweries go.

They have a different type of tap assemble from the Cornies.

While two different connections (of two different types) are needed on the corny, a Sanke only requires one. This is the same tap connection as you see at parties and at restaurants and bars, only they use CO2 to push the beer to the glass rather than the hand pump like at a party. Sankes come in several sizes as well, with 5.19 gallon (1/6 bbl), 7.5 gallon (¼ bbl), and 15.5 gallon (1/2 bbl) being the most available. The opening on a Sanke keg is much smaller than a Cornelius keg and the spear and dip tube assembly is easy enough to get out of the keg for easier cleaning. Instead of an easy to open and close pail type mechanism (like on the Corny), the Sanke requires the removal of a lock ring before the dip tube and spear assembly can be removed.
Here's a link to a how to on Sanke disassembly.
This requires some practice, but soon enough it is almost as easy as the Corny to open and clean. Usually, from the brewery these rings are harder to take out, but reinstalling the ring with it directed closer to the slit for removal makes it easier in the next instance of needed removal. As I mentioned earlier, kegs are easy to clean and the Sanke is no different. Most people don’t have to scour their Cornies to clean them. A simple soaking in Oxy-Clean or PBW is all the Sanke needs if followed with a good rinse. Last, a no-rinse sanitizer is all that is required after the spear assembly and lock ring are reattached to have a keg clean and ready to use again. You may ask yourself, why use a Sanke if Cornies are so available? My favorite thought on using Sankes is that one does not have to worry about using more than one tap connection, even if you buy a commercial keg you are ready to drink. Some home brewer rig up different connections with quick-disconnect connectors, but this still has more parts than a dedicated (one tap type) system.

There are other types of kegs out there that I won’t go into any description about, but most of them are brewery kegs and would not be sold to the public due to the style of connection. One example is the Hoff-Stephens style keg.

I wrote this so people that have no idea about kegs might have a little more information on them. They are not these big scary animals that some make them out to be, and you can find them for a good price. Cleaning isn’t an issue with the cleaners available to the home brewer, and after the start up costs there isn’t any real expense other than CO2 every now and then. Now, I would like to discuss some other uses in home brewing for kegs that some might not have even thought about.

Kegs, as I mentioned earlier, can be used for natural carbonation. This is basically the “only” thing most home brewer’s think of when they use their kegs for home brew. Well, there are numerous threads and I can’t list them all (this is where all you guys reading this and commenting come in) about other-than-normal keg usage. The first thing that comes to mind in what to use a keg for other than serving beer, is that it is a huge vessel (well a 15.5 gallon one anyways). Home brewers frequently use 5-6.5 gallon fermenters for their primary fermentation; sometimes they use more than one for even larger batches. These are usually made of glass (with the exception of the new Better Bottles and other plastic fermenters) and are easily broken, and are just as “hard” to clean as people thought kegs were. Secondly, why not combine your two 6.5 gallon glass fermenters into the one ½ bbl Sanke keg and use it as a huge fermenter? One fermenter to clean and one air lock or blow off to clean as well. Sankes as fermenters are a cinch. All that is required is a #10.5 or #11 drilled stopper in the top once the spear assembly is removed. Also, an orange carboy cap will fit with some warm water and stretching. After the carboy cap is used in this way it cannot be used again on a carboy, but….. Who’d want to go back to small capacity breakable glass after having a huge fermenter like a beer keg? There are other options a keg gives you over any other fermentation vessel as well (except a pressurizable fermenter like the Blichmann conical).

Closed-system pressurized fermentation is a technique some use, myself included. Glass or even plastic fermenters on the market aren’t able to allow this technique due to them rupturing at greater-than-needed pressure to accomplish this type of procedure.

As you can see, kegs are a very valuable tool the home brewer can and do use to make their lives a little simpler. There will always be the need to bottle, but there are ways to bottle from the keg. Beer also ages/matures better in bulk than it does in smaller bottles. I hope some that were leery before about using them for their home breweries will have a more liberal view of these shiny little helpers and give them a thought. Now I hope to hear more words of wisdom and further information from you. If you don’t use kegs and have a good reason not to, please add to this thread as well.

FSR402 · Jan 30, 2008

You forgot what the sanke kegs are used the most for in the homebrew world. Kettles and MLT's.. :rockin:

Lil' Sparky · Jan 30, 2008

Yeah, and you can pick one up for the $25 deposit, too.

Sorry, couldn't resist after your recent legal keg thread.

Lil' Sparky · Jan 30, 2008

Oh, and... kegging rocks - bottling sucks!!!

brewnman · Jan 30, 2008

Nice job on explaining this in detail!

WortMonger · Jan 30, 2008

LOL, yeah. After I wrote it I had to cut out a lot, I was way over the 10000 word limit, lol. Kegs are definitely the thickest stainless you can buy for that cheap of a thicker kettle to for tuns. Typically, the cheaper stainless pots you can buy are very thin walled or bottomed at the least and will allow easier wort scorching.

As for the recent legal keg thread....... LOL bite me you big meanie, lol. Ok, I did laugh really really hard because I love a smarta$$ Sparky.

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

OK, I went back and put in some pictures for your viewing pleasure, lol.

BlackenedBrew · Feb 8, 2008

Ok, my only complaint about this thread (and HomeBrewTalk.com for that matter) is now I really really really REALLY don't want to be at work right now!

I want some brew damnit! Seriously, is it too much to ask for, instead of coffee, have a nice Stout at work?! :rockin:

wortmonger said:
OK, I went back and put in some pictures for your viewing pleasure, lol.

Thanks for the pics, they help a lot for this noob!

wortmonger said:
The first thing that comes to mind in what to use a keg for other than serving beer, is that it is a huge vessel (well a 15.5 gallon one anyways). Home brewers frequently use 5-6.5 gallon fermenters for their primary fermentation; sometimes they use more than one for even larger batches. These are usually made of glass (with the exception of the new Better Bottles and other plastic fermenters) and are easily broken, and are just as hard to clean as people thought kegs were. Secondly, why not combine your two 6.5 gallon glass fermenters into the one ½ bbl Sanke keg and use it as a huge fermenter? One fermenter to clean and one air lock or blow off to clean as well. Sankes as fermenters are a cinch. All that is required is a #10.5 or #11 drilled stopper in the top once the spear assembly is removed. Also, an orange carboy cap will fit with some warm water and stretching. After the carboy cap is used in this way it cannot be used again on a carboy, but.. Whod want to go back to small capacity breakable glass after having a huge fermenter like a beer keg? There are other options a keg gives you over any other fermentation vessel as well (except a pressurizable fermenter like the Blichmann conical).

Ok, the sanke fermenter... I was planning on making one by cutting the top off, and making a plexi glass top for it to put in my airlock and all of that jazz. I was also thinking that with the large removable plexi top, it would be easier to get my brew into the sanke. I do realize that light is the enemy of fermenting, and I'm possibly allowing those evil do-ers a chance to skunk my brew. But a towel on top should fix those effers.

When you are talking about drilling a stopper in the top, and stretching an orange carboy cap on there, I take it you're leaving the top of the sanke in tact? (minus spear assembly) Do you have pictures to help describe this? Forgetting how much manual effort is involved in chopping up a sanke, which method would you recommend?

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

I don't have a picture, but yes. Since kegs are easy to clean with oxyclean or PBW, I have seen people remove the spear assembly and place the stopper in the 1.5" hole in the top of the Sanke. Then they just poke in their airlock or blow off tubing. I have also seen people fit a large diameter blow off tube inside the entire tap fitting. This tube pushed out on the inside of the opening for a snug fit. I just don't like the idea of cutting a keg that could be used for serving beer if you ever needed it or bought a conical fermenter one day. I mean, you need a kettle and stuff so that is always a permanent use after cutting, but for something like this I don't see the need. As far as the light getting in, you could use a darker glass to prevent that if you are insistent on cutting the keg.

jds · Feb 8, 2008

wortmonger said:
Coke brands tend to be ball lock, and Pepsi brands tend to favor pin lock.

I think you have this backwards. I was always told that Coke = pin-lock and Pepsi (and most others) = ball-lock.

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

You are right, I can't believe I missed that. I am changing the OP now. Thanks for the heads up, I need others to check stuff sometimes.

FSR402 · Feb 8, 2008

I have two kegs that I'm turning into fermenters and I cut the top open at 9" dia.
I have also drilled two holes in the top that will be used for weldless fittings. One will be used as at "beer-in" and the other will be a blow-off and racking port. I'll just put a stainless racking cane in that port and add a little CO2 to the "beer-in" port tp push the beer out to my serving kegs.

If I do ever drop the cash on a conical I'll cut the tops open a little more to get rid of the two holes and turn them into kettles. And would most likely sell them at that point.

BlackenedBrew · Feb 8, 2008

A little off topic, sorry....

You say that cornies can be a little un-favorable due to the multipal hook-ups required... Which is better, ball lock or pin lock if you insist on using cornies?

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

It doesn't matter, but ball locks I believe can be used on either port. The pin locks have one port with two pins and the other port with three pins so they can not be put on the wrong port accidentally. Also, the Pepsi kegs I have are taller and skinnier than the coke kegs.

BlackenedBrew · Feb 8, 2008

wortmonger said:
It doesn't matter, but ball locks I believe can be used on either port. The pin locks have one port with two pins and the other port with three pins so they can not be put on the wrong port accidentally. Also, the Pepsi kegs I have are taller and skinnier than the coke kegs.

Does one have parts that are easier to find than the other?

Are 5gal cornies or 5gal sankes easier to find parts for?

FSR402 · Feb 8, 2008

wortmonger said:
It doesn't matter, but ball locks I believe can be used on either port.

Nope they are different. They have differnt threads so you can't put the wrong post on the wrong port and (I'm quessing here) that the outer dia of the post are a little different or something. I have tried to put the worng one on the wrong post and it does go on if you force it but not well.

BlackenedBrew · Feb 8, 2008

FSR402 said:
Nope they are different. They have differnt threads so you can't put the wrong post on the wrong port and (I'm quessing here) that the outer dia of the post are a little different or something. I have tried to put the worng one on the wrong post and it does go on if you force it but not well.

HULK SMASH!!! lol

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

See, this is why I like the Sanke. I haven't used my kegs since I found my first Sanke years ago. I must have accidentally swapped keg posts during a cleaning once because both of my connections on ball lock would fit but way to snug. I never used my pin-lock kegs but bought the connections for them anyways. There is way more to Cornies than there are to Sankes and this is why I prefer them personally. Now days, more and more commercial beers are coming in 1/6bbl size so places can have more beers on tap due to storage room.

BlackenedBrew · Feb 8, 2008

Are the 1/6bbl sanke kegs as difficult to get a hold of as their larger cousins? Will they cause as big of an argument as the "grey area" shrouded around the 1/2bbl sankes?

Chriso · Feb 8, 2008

@TheGAC Re: Ball lock vs Pin lock, it's a oft-debated topic, and comes down to personal choice. I went with Ball lock because they are far more common/available in the Midwest because of Pepsi's stranglehold on our market. On the coasts, I've heard Pin lock are easier to find.

Also, and this is a very minor point, Ball lock seem simpler to rebuild, and parts are sometimes a little cheaper. But we're talking differences of 25c and 50c, not dollars.

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

LOL, you would have to ask the others about a grey area. I have seen more and more of them and think they may overtake the 1/2 bbls except on BMC. Sam Adams and Boulevard use them alot I know. Where you get your kegs is your business, and I don't think anyone will ask where you got them on here. Kind of a don't ask don't tell sort of thing, but some people justify everything they do (legal or not). I personally love my (6) 1/6 bbl kegs and both of my 1/2 bbl kegs.

BlackenedBrew · Feb 8, 2008

wortmonger said:
LOL, you would have to ask the others about a grey area. I have seen more and more of them and think they may overtake the 1/2 bbls except on BMC. Sam Adams and Boulevard use them alot I know. Where you get your kegs is your business, and I don't think anyone will ask where you got them on here. Kind of a don't ask don't tell sort of thing, but some people justify everything they do (legal or not). I personally love my (6) 1/6 bbl kegs and both of my 1/2 bbl kegs.

I was just yankin' your chain a little on the grey area... thats between me and the SWMBO, because she's who I have to answer to right now.

I think the real question in there is are they as hard/harder/easier to get ahold of as the 1/2bbl sankes?

Thank you for the info Chriso... there's a Coke factory down the road from where I live, and Coke does have a little bit of a strong arm here... but I'll keep in mind all that you said.

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

I find them easier to get. Funny though, no place around me sells them with beer in them. You have to special order one and wait sometimes a week for it to get here. They really don't like to sell beer here in the buckle of the Bible-belt.

Chriso · Feb 8, 2008

wortmonger said:
They really don't like to sell beer here in the buckle of the Bible-belt.

Don't you mean the chastity padlock on the bible belt? The buckle would be Kansas, after all.

We should brew together sometime. Okla isn't far at all, it's an afternoon's drive

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

They'd shoot me for talking to YOU if they ever found out, lol. I need to get my own place and then I would definitley be into brew buddies. I am way south in the state, well bottom third of the state anyways.

BlackenedBrew · Feb 8, 2008

wortmonger said:
I find them easier to get. Funny though, no place around me sells them with beer in them. You have to special order one and wait sometimes a week for it to get here. They really don't like to sell beer here in the buckle of the Bible-belt.

That's another thing I love about Portland... they love beer here. I'll have to check the usual spots to get good beer, and see what their story is on pickin' up a 1/6bbl sanke with or w/out beer in it.

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

I have enough now to lager in one 1/2 bbl and then transfer to three 1/6 bbls for serving. Or, I can leave everything in the 1/2 bbl and have 3 kegs for another beer. Or, I can just keep filling 1/6 bbls out of the 1/2 bbl as needed. I like the diversity this gives me.

sirsloop · Feb 8, 2008

batch aging... mmm... good.... no bottle bombs... mmm... good!

I can easily stash away 8 kegs full of beer. No problem. SWMBO would absolutely have a problem with 16+ cases of beer bottles laying around the place. Thats nearly 400 bottles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BlackenedBrew · Feb 8, 2008

sirsloop said:
batch aging... mmm... good.... no bottle bombs... mmm... good!

I can easily stash away 8 kegs full of beer. No problem. SWMBO would absolutely have a problem with 16+ cases of beer bottles laying around the place. Thats nearly 400 bottles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good point... I have a feeling my SWMBO would be pissed with a ton of beer bottles.

Now I just gotta find a free/really cheap working fridge on craigslist or something.

sirsloop · Feb 8, 2008

yeh.... get the search on. I located a mint used sanyo 4910 for $65.

WortMonger · Feb 8, 2008

Chest freezer, door removed, bar built on top in place of door with taps. Sweet.

Like this!!!!

vasie · Feb 8, 2008

Ahhh..

but with only one pour lonely tap...

Kayos · Feb 9, 2008

The reason I (and I think most newer brewers) have not converted yet is not the cost of the kegs, but the cost of the kegerator. I have yet to see one for under $300 in my area. Then the CO2 canister and the regulators, tubing, taps and kegs.

The second reason is the scary notion that you can pour a draft glass any time you want. Sounds goooooood and sounds like a bigger gut in the making. That cap barrier is a pretty good wall. Life is full of maniacal decisions.

WortMonger · Feb 9, 2008

I have seen free freezers and fridges. All you have to do is pick them up. I love having people over to drink, and bottles would just be a horrendous undertaking for as much as we drink. I think the ability to bulk age is the best benefit a keg offers, even over the ease of filling and carbonating. If I didn't have to fill the bottles, I wouldn't care.

RadicalEd · Feb 9, 2008

Gah, the people in my area seem to think that just because they used something, the value increases. Seriously, it's a cold day in hell when you see a chest freezer of any size in any condition under $100. Even then, it's a "you haul it away" arrangement.

I suppose I don't really have room for a dedicated kegerator right now, though. Next fall I will, but that's a ways off for thinking about now. So for now I just deal with only having room for 1 shelf of food in my fridge, the rest occupied by 2 kegs

.

WortMonger · Feb 9, 2008

What food do you need room for? LOL, I think if you could fit more beer in there you should. Isn't beer food anyways, lol? That sucks that you can't find a freezer for free. I see them all the time down here. Fridges are more common, but I have seen those huge freezers people just give away. I do hear you about space. If I was brewing at the place I am now, I couldn't be brewing. I have my kegerator over there and my brewery and stuff at my parents. Just sold my home out of town and will be looking for my new one here in March. Maybe I will find a great home for my first flip here since I moved back.

BlackenedBrew · Feb 10, 2008

Kayos said:
The reason I (and I think most newer brewers) have not converted yet is not the cost of the kegs, but the cost of the kegerator. I have yet to see one for under $300 in my area. Then the CO2 canister and the regulators, tubing, taps and kegs.

The second reason is the scary notion that you can pour a draft glass any time you want. Sounds goooooood and sounds like a bigger gut in the making. That cap barrier is a pretty good wall. Life is full of maniacal decisions.

Yeah, cost is always an issue, but from the day I make my first batch to the day I make my 10,000th batch... I will never use bottles. I know that my SWMBO doesn't want cases after cases of bottles around, and that's cool with me. I also won't have to worry about my future father-in-law coming over and drinking the sediment in the bottom on the bottle because he refuses to use a glass... especially if it isn't stored in the freezer... oi.

Last, but not least, yeah I'm trying to watch my weight a little. Hell, I'm getting married in Maui in October, I'm trying to loose a few pounds. But I can't name a single dude that picks up a beer (whether it be from the tap or from a bottle poured into a glass) that says, "... gee Bob, I'd love to have a beer, but I want to be able to fit into my favorite pair of black jeans next Thursday..." I usually hear, "Hell yes I'll take a beer... Why do you even bother asking?!"

ipatch · Jun 7, 2010

WortMonger said:
I find them easier to get. Funny though, no place around me sells them with beer in them. You have to special order one and wait sometimes a week for it to get here. They really don't like to sell beer here in the buckle of the Bible-belt.

I thought Texas was the buckle of the bible belt.

Wastaken · Apr 13, 2011

WortMonger said:
kegs are so much easier and less time consuming to fill.

Hello WortMonger,

I'm new to the forum, I've got 1st post jitters...

The idea of utilizing sanke kegs for fermentation and dispensing really intrigues me. One question on sanitization. The only part that doesn't completely dissasemble is the dip tube/rubber gasket/ball lock assembly. I'm assuming that I just soak this entire piece, make sure I move the spring loaded ball lock around a bit to ensure I'm getting all of the nooks and crannies, and I'm all good?? Any other advise on sanitation procedures?

Kegs and their benefits to the brewer

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