My eBIAB Basement Build

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huntb

huntb

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Finally brewed my last batch of extract last night and was able to pull the last couple of things off my old kettle in order to finish up my new eBIAB kettle. I still have a ways to go but here is where I'm at so far

IMG_20150129_233735641.jpg


IMG_20150129_235605612.jpg


Testing the pump and sprayer nozzle
IMG_20150129_233517943.jpg


And for comparison between old and new
IMG_20150130_240230781.jpg


Things to do:

- Buy components and build control panel (probably going to go Auber for timing sake, but I really want to use Arduino) (GFCI already installed)
- Install water line and filter to brew room
- Figure out where to drain chiller and CIP waste water (thinking washing machine drain pipe, but its kinda far away)

Questions and feedback welcome
 
Nice looking setup!! Mine is very similiar. Other then being geeky cool (I may get one), the pot looks lightweight, why the CIP?
 
Looks awesome. I really like the spray nozzle. I am trying something a bit different with mine, but if it fails, I'll probably imitate your design.
 
watermelon83 said:
Nice looking setup!! Mine is very similiar. Other then being geeky cool (I may get one), the pot looks lightweight, why the CIP?
Click to expand...

Currently I don't have a sink in my brew area and I feel like CIP with a little elbow grease will do just fine. The kettle is a 62qt Bayou classic with steamer basket
 
Do you remove the nozzle for brewing? I would assume so, it would kill the temp during a recirc mash in my head anyhow.
 
watermelon83 said:
Do you remove the nozzle for brewing? I would assume so, it would kill the temp during a recirc mash in my head anyhow.
Click to expand...

I guess I don't understand what you are saying... My build is electric so I will have a PID maintaining constant temp and the nozzle is for showering the wort over the grain bed during recirculation.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a 1.5" NPT RTD like Auber sells - for less than Auber's arm and a leg they charge?
 
I used a basic copper sweat tee. In the attached pic, you can see that I sweated the FPT fitting holding the threads of the RTD onto a short (1 inch or so) length of pipe and then sweat that into the copper tee. Overall, the 50mm probe end is right next to the far wall of the tee, but doesn't touch as verified by looking up the tee when it is dissassembled. It has worked great for about 15 brewdays and several sous-vide adventures.

I don't know how it would work with stainless tees because those are aren't so customizable. I am happy with copper... After all, I put 50 feet of tubing into the boiling wort to chill... so another copper fitting doesn't bug me.

2015-02-06 19.46.23.jpg
 
Thanks for the links. My research after seeing your recirculation solution had led me to this but I hadn't bothered to look into where or how to purchase one.
 
Awesome job! I have been wondering if something like this was feasible.

When I make mine, I'll probably just use the heating element without the controller as I'm not good with electronics. I'll just have to manually switch on/off the element to keep the temp constant.

Are you going to use this as your boil kettle also?
 
TimAikin1 said:
Awesome job! I have been wondering if something like this was feasible.

When I make mine, I'll probably just use the heating element without the controller as I'm not good with electronics. I'll just have to manually switch on/off the element to keep the temp constant.

Are you going to use this as your boil kettle also?
Click to expand...

It's an electric BIAB (Brew In A Bag) system so the entire process is done in one vessle.

Be careful with having no control, the temperature can overshoot easily with a more powerful element. A lot of people use an SSVR instead of a PID control that uses a simple potentiometer in order to control heating output. There are plenty of threads on it if you search.
 
nutty_gnome said:
I used a basic copper sweat tee. In the attached pic, you can see that I sweated the FPT fitting holding the threads of the RTD onto a short (1 inch or so) length of pipe and then sweat that into the copper tee. Overall, the 50mm probe end is right next to the far wall of the tee, but doesn't touch as verified by looking up the tee when it is dissassembled. It has worked great for about 15 brewdays and several sous-vide adventures.

I don't know how it would work with stainless tees because those are aren't so customizable. I am happy with copper... After all, I put 50 feet of tubing into the boiling wort to chill... so another copper fitting doesn't bug me.
Click to expand...

That's a good thought, but I've already purchased my plumbing. I guess I'm going to splurge and get the Auber one. Thanks
 
huntb said:
I guess I don't understand what you are saying... My build is electric so I will have a PID maintaining constant temp and the nozzle is for showering the wort over the grain bed during recirculation.
Click to expand...

I have read that this is a bad thing since it will oxidize the wort.
Those spray sparge arms are for sparging water over the grainbed bed to rinse it but its not a good idea to do this with wort... I was also told this again when I brought it up at an "all grain brewing class" a while back... From my understanding the only time aerating wort or beer is recommended is when your about to pitch the yeast.
 
augiedoggy said:
I have read that this is a bad thing since it will oxidize the wort.
Those spray sparge arms are for sparging water over the grainbed bed to rinse it but its not a good idea to do this with wort... I was also told this again when I brought it up at an "all grain brewing class" a while back... From my understanding the only time aerating wort or beer is recommended is when your about to pitch the yeast.
Click to expand...

I don't buy into this at all..

In my mind and experience, oxidation concerns come into play post-pitch/post-fermentation(hence the old "Siphon Silently" mentality when transferring to secondary/bottling bucket/keg). I think proper fermentation takes care of any preboil oxidation concerns(which for me is zero)..especially since you are "supposed" to oxidize the hell out of the wort once you pitch your yeast into the wort anyhow so why would it matter during recirc?

I know alot of folks that use the spray recirc method in a e-biab or HERMS system and have had no issues with oxidation at all with their batches pre-pitch. I think this oxidation concern pre-pitch is a myth.
;)
 
augiedoggy said:
I have read that this is a bad thing since it will oxidize the wort.
Those spray sparge arms are for sparging water over the grainbed bed to rinse it but its not a good idea to do this with wort... I was also told this again when I brought it up at an "all grain brewing class" a while back... From my understanding the only time aerating wort or beer is recommended is when your about to pitch the yeast.
Click to expand...

There are many, many, many, many, many, many discussions on hot side aeration and from all that I have read, it is not a problem with small batch homebrewing. For instance, High Gravity Brew sells a system with a spray nozzle for recirculation. YMMV, but there are quite a few of us who recirculate with some sort of sprayer nozzle or some type of manifold without any issues.

I guess I'll find out once I get this sytem up and running.
 
bbohanon said:
I don't buy into this at all..

In my mind and experience, oxidation concerns come into play post-boil/post-fermentation(hence the old "Siphon Silently" mentality when transferring to secondary/bottling bucket/keg). I think proper fermentation takes care of any preboil oxidation concerns(which for me is zero)..especially since you are "supposed" to oxidize the hell out of the wort once you pitch your yeast into the wort anyhow so why would it matter during recirc?

I know alot of folks that use the spray recirc method in a e-biab or HERMS system and have had no issues with oxidation at all with their batches pre-pitch. I think this oxidation concern pre-pitch is a myth.
;)
Click to expand...

Just playing devil's advocate here... the "oxidize the hell" that you talk about here is cold side oxidation (I hate that word), not hot side aeration that augiedoggy is talking about. They are two separate things
 
huntb said:
Just playing devil's advocate here... the "oxidize the hell" that you talk about here is cold side oxidation (I hate that word), not hot side aeration that augiedoggy is talking about. They are two separate things
Click to expand...

Lol.. Yea I hate that word as well..yes, I was referring to the cold side of this process when aerating/Oxidizing the wort when pitching the yeast.
I still don't believe oxidation of any sort due to spraying wort back across the grains on the hot side during a recirc sparge wise makes a bit of difference to the end result if you ferment properly, but it's on my list of things to test personally when I get some extra time to whip up 2 small batches and prove this out.
:)
 
huntb said:
Why not just get the one from my original link?
Click to expand...


In between the time I had posted a request for links and the time that you graciously replied, my own research had led me to that. I haven't ordered anything yet, was just sharing what I saw as well.
 
I know it has been a while without updates (and without homebrew) but here is the controller finally built and running. The enclosure BARELY fit everything in it, but thankfully I picked the right place for everything to go.

The controller will be mounted to the wall and I still have to bring in plumbing and hang my carbon water filter. Those last few items shouldn't take too long. In the long run this room will have some drywall and other cosmetic upgrades. If the condensation gets too bad, I will be replacing the window with glass block and a dryer vent glass block fitted in it right with a duct fan.

Also, I've heard mixed emotions about auto tuning the myPin TD4 PID's and their ability to actually calibrate properly. Some people just say to adjust the P, I and D values manually (might go this route). Anyways, enough with the talk. Bring on the pics!

IMG_20150706_224509.jpg


IMG_20150706_230501.jpg


IMG_20150706_230352.jpg


IMG_20150706_230558.jpg


IMG_20150706_230412.jpg


IMG_20150706_230443.jpg
 
Finally got time this weekend to test the temperature control and install my plumbing with inline water filter. I filled the pot with 9 gallons of 65F water and raised it to 152F in about 20 minutes, although I forgot to time it. The temp overshot by only 1.3 degrees so I'm pretty happy. I had the wrong size fuse in for the pump, so I wasn't able to test out the pump switch on my panel, but I'm confident it will work. Here are some more pics and hopefully I will be brewing shortly!

IMG_20150712_191302.jpg


IMG_20150712_191402.jpg


IMG_20150712_191411.jpg


IMG_20150712_191244.jpg
 
Bellybuster said:
do an autotune on your PID and that 1.3 degrees will become less than 1
Click to expand...

I've heard that the autotune for the MyPIN's doesn't work the best so I am trying to stay away from that for now. Unless you have had different results?
 

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