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Old 12-05-2013, 01:17 PM   #41
IslandLizard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cake View Post
I brewed up the 115th Dream Hopbursted IPA from NB a few weeks ago. I also have the therminator and it still worked like a dream. I use a 15gal megapot along with the hopstopper (http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hop-stopper). I had absolutely no issues whatsoever, even after using a pound of pellet hops. Once done with the therminator, I cycle PBW through it using my steelhead pump, it works perfectly.
What is the mesh size of that hop stopper?
Judging from the pictures it seems relatively coarse, like a 30x30 mesh perhaps (30 wires per inch). That would make a 500 micron filter, roughly, depending on wire thickness. Yet it seems to hold a lot of sludge back. How much does go through? I'm trying to eliminate as much hop sludge being transferred to the fermentor as possible, and at the same time keep my plate chiller clean too. I spend more time cleaning the chiller than anything else from brewday.

The hop baskets from Stainless Brewing are 400 micron, Chad's are 300 micron with a 400 micron option. Most people seem to prefer the 300 micron for tighter filtering.

 
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:16 PM   #42
Cake
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Nov 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandLizard View Post
What is the mesh size of that hop stopper?
Judging from the pictures it seems relatively coarse, like a 30x30 mesh perhaps (30 wires per inch). That would make a 500 micron filter, roughly, depending on wire thickness. Yet it seems to hold a lot of sludge back. How much does go through? I'm trying to eliminate as much hop sludge being transferred to the fermentor as possible, and at the same time keep my plate chiller clean too. I spend more time cleaning the chiller than anything else from brewday.

The hop baskets from Stainless Brewing are 400 micron, Chad's are 300 micron with a 400 micron option. Most people seem to prefer the 300 micron for tighter filtering.
Honestly I am not sure what the mesh is. It's stainless steel and does the job for me. I looked at the website where I bought it and couldn't find the specs of it. Here is a picture of it doing it's job though, this is from the 16 oz of hops I put in.
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:48 PM   #43
dirtydingus
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Originally Posted by Xpertskir View Post
After much consideration on the topic the issues brought up in this thread is EXACTLY why I have avoided plate chillers and to a lesser degree CFC's.


I just have a beefy whirlpool chiller which a recirculation arm, like this one. http://morebeer.com/products/wort-ch...rculation.html
I was thinking of a plate chiller, but glad I saw this post first. I'm gonna do just as above. 1/2 copper recirc. arm. I have a pump, brand new. I have hose. All I have to do is get the quick disconnects. I also have a sump pump for ice water like the configuration in the Mr. Malty post. In the Mr. Malty post I couldn't quite figure out the reason to have the lid on the kettle while chilling, unless for splashing?

 
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:02 PM   #44
corax
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Originally Posted by dirtydingus View Post
In the Mr. Malty post I couldn't quite figure out the reason to have the lid on the kettle while chilling, unless for splashing?
Once the temperature drops a bit, your wort becomes bacteria heaven. It's good sanitation practice to put the lid on the kettle as soon as boiling ends and chilling begins.

 
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:17 PM   #45
biertourist
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Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eastoak View Post
i've recently started experimenting with all flameout hop additions, about 10 batches now with very consistent results. one of the reasons was the hops getting into the plate chiller. the chiller never clogged on me but whenever i would run boiling PBW water through it i would get gunk coming out for a good 30 minutes or more. another reason was to see how much bitterness i would get without boiling the hops for 60 min. beersmith said zero and some people claimed that it was little more than zero, i figured i would get a beer just as bitter with a 20-30 min hopstand; X amount at flameout, X amount at 10-15 minutes and X amount at 25-30 min depending on the alpha acid of a given hop but it's usually 3-5 oz in the kettle. what i don't know is if i'm missing something by not boiling the hops, some other element in the hops that may need a boil. the resulting beer has been very good, nobody can guess that it did not have a bittering addition. the aroma and flavor is noticeably brighter, more intense and longer lasting in the keg.
I'm with you 100% on this. I prefer super hoppy pale ales and IPAs with less bitterness; I also like "kettle hop flavor" better than dry hop flavor so I've switched to ALMOST 100% flame out additions, too. (First time I forgot to hop stand and had very low bitterness but I got it right this last time.)


Adam

 
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:24 PM   #46
biertourist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corax View Post
Once the temperature drops a bit, your wort becomes bacteria heaven. It's good sanitation practice to put the lid on the kettle as soon as boiling ends and chilling begins.
Yep, that's part of it. Fruit flies are also another huge consideration. (As they carry acetobacter that turns our precious alcohol into vinegar.)

I like to add my flame out hops then chill to 141F if DMS is even a possibility and then do my hop stand at that temp and then finish chilling (all while covered).

Adam

 
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:08 AM   #47
gunmetal
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Apr 2010
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I use a duda 30 plate, because I have always tried to cool the wort as quick as possible. I have always been told this is when the wort is the most vulnerable to infection. I don't spend 20 minutes whirlpooling either. I do have a hop basket that filters leaf hops and use micron bags inside the basket with pellets. I also recirculate everything back into the boil kettle. I can cool 5.5 gallons down to 65 degrees in only 10 minutes. I know I am circulating all of the break material through the plate chiller, but once again, I am trying to cool it as fast as possible. I backflush the plate chiller, and only see some material in the first 10 seconds or so. I then soak in pbw and flush again, but see little to no material when doing this. Maybe the duda chilller has more space between the plates than the therminator, don't know for sure, but I could never imagine clogging it.

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Old 12-06-2013, 06:17 AM   #48
logdrum
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Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunmetal
I use a duda 30 plate, because I have always tried to cool the wort as quick as possible. I have always been told this is when the wort is the most vulnerable to infection. I don't spend 20 minutes whirlpooling either. I do have a hop basket that filters leaf hops and use micron bags inside the basket with pellets. I also recirculate everything back into the boil kettle. I can cool 5.5 gallons down to 65 degrees in only 10 minutes. I know I am circulating all of the break material through the plate chiller, but once again, I am trying to cool it as fast as possible. I backflush the plate chiller, and only see some material in the first 10 seconds or so. I then soak in pbw and flush again, but see little to no material when doing this. Maybe the duda chilller has more space between the plates than the therminator, don't know for sure, but I could never imagine clogging it.
Boil some PBW, fill your plate chiller & let it sit for a half hour or so; dump the contents into a glass container, report back. (I have a Duda as well, the previous experiment shocked me)

 
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Old 12-06-2013, 02:27 PM   #49
IslandLizard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cake View Post
Honestly I am not sure what the mesh is. It's stainless steel and does the job for me. I looked at the website where I bought it and couldn't find the specs of it. Here is a picture of it doing it's job though, this is from the 16 oz of hops I put in.
Thank you for the picture. That's a nice hop cake you got there!

If you feel inclined, you could put a ruler on the mesh (along the mesh grain) and take a good sharp hi-res picture of it. Then count the # of wires within the inch. Or count directly.

 
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:05 PM   #50
jflongo
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One thing you guys could add, would be secondary filtration, like I got from NorCal. These stands go under my false bottom, and add even more filtration.

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.co...om_Stands.html
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