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Old 11-24-2011, 07:36 PM   #1
HopSong
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I don't know if that is proper terminology .. But my question is.. I'm planning on brewing a Brewers Best IPA kit. It comes with a dry yeast.. I haven't opened the box to find out what kind.

However, what I want to know is.. Is it at ALL helpful to put the yeast into a flask with a starter to get it really going before pitching?

Reason I ask is.. I've only done two brews so far.. neither of them have formed much of a krausen.. FAR from the kind that need a blowoff. I was hoping to get something pretty active going with a lot of yeast bodies to fart CO2.

I have a flask.. and I have a stir plate in the mail..

Thanks for your thoughts... Bill
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:11 PM   #2
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You do not need to make a starter for dry yeast. I usually just throw the dry yeast into the carboy as I am emptying my boil kettle. If I am brewing a huge beer I will re-hydrate the dry yeast in warm water before I pitch it. I usually use liquid but as of late have been using a lot of dry yeast because they are a lot easier to use and I dont need to worry about making a starter a couple days before.

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Old 11-24-2011, 08:48 PM   #3
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Have your previous batches attenuated appropriately? If so, don't worry about the size of the krausen.

 
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:53 PM   #4
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With quality dry yeast a starter is actually counter productive. With kits, often the yeast is junk and possibly old depending on the age of the kit. So if it is a Danstar or Safale yeast with a good expiration date don't do a starter. If it is a no name on the package yeast, either replace it or dare I say make a starter. When I first started brewing some of the kits came with 7 gram packets of yeast that were undersized for the beer, they would have benefited from a proper yeast pitch.

 
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:00 PM   #5
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Thanks guys..
Mc.. I don't really understand attenuation yet.. I started at 40 and reached 14 with 20 someodd days in the FV. Full extract.. no steeping grains.. Coopers kit.. the yeast was almost newly packaged. Coopers also.

samc.. Thanks, didn't realize it could be counterproductive. My latest brew.. a Morebeer Am Amber did the same thing.. started at 56 and hit 14 after 20days in the primary.. I used new date Safale 05. Actually got a bit more krausen from the Coopers.. but the Safale produced almost no foam at the top. I'm sure this means little as it did ferment quite well. I don't think this could be considered a big beer to use more than one packet.

Thanks again..
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:45 PM   #6
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Also don't oxygenate wort if using dry yeast. The yeast don't need it so it'll just increase staling.

 
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HbgBill View Post
Thanks guys..
Mc.. I don't really understand attenuation yet.. I started at 40 and reached 14 with 20 someodd days in the FV. Full extract.. no steeping grains.. Coopers kit.. the yeast was almost newly packaged. Coopers also.

samc.. Thanks, didn't realize it could be counterproductive. My latest brew.. a Morebeer Am Amber did the same thing.. started at 56 and hit 14 after 20days in the primary.. I used new date Safale 05. Actually got a bit more krausen from the Coopers.. but the Safale produced almost no foam at the top. I'm sure this means little as it did ferment quite well. I don't think this could be considered a big beer to use more than one packet.

Thanks again..
If your yeast could convert all the sugars to alcohol, that would be 100% attenuation but yeast can't eat all kinds of sugars so there is always some left. If the yeast ate 75% of the sugar, that would be 75% attenuation.

It really isn't quite that simple but that is the general idea.

 
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChillWill View Post
Also don't oxygenate wort if using dry yeast. The yeast don't need it so it'll just increase staling.
Yeah, I cant believe that as I pump pure oxygen into all my beers if I am using dry, or liquid yeast and have never had a stalled fermentation using any yeast. The only time I would recommend not oxygenating is if you are not using a saccharomyces yeast and are just infecting the brew.

Chromados

 
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChillWill
Also don't oxygenate wort if using dry yeast. The yeast don't need it so it'll just increase staling.
This is 100% false . When I aerate my wort really good (5-6 inches of bubbles) I get fermentation activity within 4-8 hours if I don't it's taken up to 3 days.

 
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Old 11-25-2011, 01:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chromados View Post
Yeah, I cant believe that as I pump pure oxygen into all my beers if I am using dry, or liquid yeast and have never had a stalled fermentation using any yeast. The only time I would recommend not oxygenating is if you are not using a saccharomyces yeast and are just infecting the brew.

Chromados
Read carefully. He said staling, not stalling. These are two different problems.

 
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