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Old 04-06-2012, 02:16 AM   #681
Sippin37
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Got it. It didn't come with the feeler gauge, did it? If not, where do you find one of those guys?

Thanks
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:59 AM   #682
msa8967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sippin37 View Post
Got it. It didn't come with the feeler gauge, did it? If not, where do you find one of those guys?

Thanks
Any basic autoparts store or hardware store will carry these. I bought mine from Autozone for about $6.
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:49 AM   #683
nate456789
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I usually just run it thru the crusher twice if I am doing BIAB. I have no problem hitting in the 80s like that.
That way I don't have to keep messing with the gap if I want to do a regular mash.
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:12 AM   #684
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Thanks for the great info, and easy to follow instruction. I was going to start buying equipment for AG, but I think im gonna skip that for now and try BIAB.

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Old 04-30-2012, 12:35 PM   #685
Riseabovebb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralphadopolis View Post
Thanks for the great info, and easy to follow instruction. I was going to start buying equipment for AG, but I think im gonna skip that for now and try BIAB.
I definitely recommend brewing in the BIAB style. I just brewed the hopslam clone Seven references earlier in the thread. I tasted the brew yesterday prior to dry hopping and it smells and tastes FANTASTIC.

I did need to add 2 lbs of DME to hit my target OG due to efficiency/capacity issues, but that's said to only be an issue for really big beers where a whole ton of grain is needed.

Good luck to you!

 
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:24 AM   #686
JonathanG
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I just want to say that this thread has been invaluable. I recently started home brewing in March, and am planning to do a BIAB for my second batch next week. It'll be my own take on Biermuncher's Orange Kolsch. Thanks for all of those that have contributed to this thread. It encouraged me to try all grain for my second batch.

 
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:21 AM   #687
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Originally Posted by Seven View Post
That is a heat shield that keeps the sight-glass from boiling and the plastic cover on the valve handle from melting. It also protects the thermometer casing from overheating and breaking. Although I temporarily removed the built-in kettle thermometer for BIAB.

Hah! I suspected that kettles like these would need some sort of shielding. Anyone who has had any experience with a gas burner should be skeptical of leaving these kettles unshielded. Do the designers of these and similar kettles address this concern?

 
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:43 AM   #688
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nope.. none that I know of have a heat shield built in... you'd think they'd all have one by now

 
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:52 PM   #689
jmd1971
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Hate to ask, but without paging through all 69 pages of posts, could someone please repost the formula to derive how much water should be added to the kettle based on the amount of grain being used, evaporation, length of boil, etc.?

I wish you could search the thread but can't figure out how. I want to do my first BIAB this Friday - looking forward to it!

Great info, all...

 
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:23 AM   #690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmd1971
Hate to ask, but without paging through all 69 pages of posts, could someone please repost the formula to derive how much water should be added to the kettle based on the amount of grain being used, evaporation, length of boil, etc.?

I wish you could search the thread but can't figure out how. I want to do my first BIAB this Friday - looking forward to it!

Great info, all...
Lots of variables here that are going to be particular to your setup (evap rate and how hard/if you squeeze the bag).

I just mash at 1.5 qt per pound and then add sparge water up to 7 gallons (6 gal batch) over the top of my bag as it sits on a grate draining into my kettle. It's pretty simple. Just plan for boiling off about a gallon over a sixty minute boil to hit your total wort volume.

 
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