Crazy idea I had for measureing specific gravity while sparging

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shushikiary

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So I'm putting together plans to build an automated all grain system using 3 kegs I have. I'm building the keggle right now and will use it for a while before finishing the build, but I'm thinking ahead.

I've seen that many people like to stop their sparge after gravity of the sparge wort hits 1.010 - 1.008. However doing this typically means pulling a sample and taking a reading by hand or buying a VERY expensive inline gravity reader (lowest I've seen a sensor was 1200 bucks).

So I got to thinking... what if there was a better way? Using a refractometer and an excel table you can even get the SG without an ATC device, thus all you need is the refractive index and the temperature of the sample to get your SG.

Well... step 2... refractive index is DIRECTLY proportional do dielectric constant. Sense the tubing I'll use will most likely not be metalic, we can assume a magnetic permeability of 1, thus making the index of refraction equal to the square root of the relative permittivity.
(see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractive_index)

Given this is the case we CAN measure this easily. We simply take some silicon tubing, or PEX tubing, and put two halves of a copper pipe we cut down center around the tubing and solder a wire to each. Now the capacitance of the two copper "plates" will change as the dielectric material changes in permittivity....

Given a capacitor with 2 dieletrics of different permittivity it acts like two caps wired in parallel, so it's very easy to pull out the dielectric of the silicon (which is also constant, and thus very easy to simply calibrate out if you dont want to remove it mathematically).

Thus, as the permittivity of the wort changes with SG we can measure it and get refractive index, and then also take a temp measurement as close as possibly to where the "sensor" is and then we can use the excel sheet equations to get our SG with a cheap sensor.

The cheapest way to measure the capacitance would be to wire the cap as the oscillator tuning cap for a digital counter chip, allowing us to get a different count given the same period of time as the capacitance changes... giving us a digital count directly proportional to the permittivity, and should have linear response as the frequency of the oscilator circuit is fairly linear as the cap changes, and the capacitance changes linearly with permittivity. (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitance)

Thus, we simply calibrate the sensor to see what counts correspond to what SG at what temperature by backwards calculating the excel equations, and BAM we have a cheap working SG sensor for in line wort measurements, allowing us to automate our sparge! (assuming you can already control your pump speed (and thus sparge rate) with the controller you have)


Am I crazy or would this work?
 
You know they sell these refractometers.

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Dunno, but....how much to build me a time machine?

lol, not possible, after I built one I would realize how bad an idea it was and go back in time to prevent my self from building it thus causing a paradox and making the building of any time machine impossible.


And yes I know they sell them, but I want to give the input to the brew controller so I can automate it and dont have to make the measurement my self.
 
The idea seems theoretically sound, but I think it might not be practical to implement in your garage/house.

Do you have any idea what the ballpark capacitance of your device will be with wort gravities that are within the range of what you will actually working with in a home brewery? I personally don't, so I am just thinking out loud here...

What I worry about is the capacitance being very small, and not suitable for the charge/discharge cap of a 555 timer application.

Personally, I think you would have accuracy and precision problems that would make it not work as well as you want. ATC refractometers can be found for $30, so...

But, if you want to get hardcore geek with your brewing DIY stuff, I say you go for it and let us know how it works.
 
I agree with Walker. Developing an accurate method for measuring the dielectric constant is not as easy as you think. Price out this bad boy and let me know...
 
Yea, if the change in capacitance is very small it would be very hard to use this method.... but we can get a basic idea of what the change will be...

What is the change in refractive index from 1.008 to 1.7 SG? Square that, and that is the change in permittivity, then multiply that times the area of our "cap" and divide by the distance between the plates (all in meters, meters squared) and we have our capacitance.... thus if the capacitance change is too small, we can simply increase the size of our plates and reduce the space between them.

Yea lamar, that guy is one of the $1200 units I was talking about :(.

Maybe I'll just have to build the system based on manually controlling the sparge and then building something like this to test it out and see what I get.
 
but I want to give the input to the brew controller so I can automate it and dont have to make the measurement my self.
Yes, I agree, take out the difficult task of picking a drop form your runnings and looking through the refractometer. Keep is simple with the above Science book.:p
 
Let's not dog the man!

One day, some nerd was sitting around and said, "You know what? The presence of sugars and salts in water causes a refraction of light, and the angle of refraction is proportional to the amount of .... blah blah blah."

Then that guy built a refractometer, and a bunch of you bought them.

The idea is good, but maybe not practical. It sounds like a cheap enough experiment to give it a shot, though. If it works well enough, there will be a bunch of home brewing monkeys buying them or starting threads titled "Building my own shushikiometer!" in the DIY forum on here.
 
Build it, Build it, Build it *chants*
And when it works, send me one for free.
 
Thanks, I'll just go ahead with my build and give the idea a shot after I get it all working (which may be a good few months, so patience is a virtue.... that I have to participate in but dont like).
 
I wonder if this is the principal being employed with the Fermonitor. He's supposed to have sensor probes available this fall for around $100.
 
Let's not dog the man!

One day, some nerd was sitting around and said, "You know what? The presence of sugars and salts in water causes a refraction of light, and the angle of refraction is proportional to the amount of .... blah blah blah."

Then that guy built a refractometer, and a bunch of you bought them.

The idea is good, but maybe not practical. It sounds like a cheap enough experiment to give it a shot, though. If it works well enough, there will be a bunch of home brewing monkeys buying them or starting threads titled "Building my own shushikiometer!" in the DIY forum on here.
Oh I think it's great to try stuff. Just joking about the complicated method to bypass the extremely simple one :) I know the end goal with be simpler even if it works. It's just funny to look at it like that.
 
Oh I think it's great to try stuff. Just joking about the complicated method to bypass the extremely simple one :) I know the end goal with be simpler even if it works. It's just funny to look at it like that.

Yeah. I was wondering about it at first, too, but when he said it wanted to feed the info into a computer controller, it made sense.

But, even at that, I guess I look at things with my Engineer Glasses on all the time. Building something might be complex, but using it might be easy.

I mean.... it's definitely a lot simpler to walk to the store than build an internal combustion engine, automatic transmission, etc, etc. But, OPERATING a car is pretty damn easy....
 
So I'm putting together plans to build an automated all grain system using 3 kegs I have. I'm building the keggle right now and will use it for a while before finishing the build, but I'm thinking ahead.

(Lots of stuff I couldn't begin to comprehend)

Am I crazy or would this work?
I can't contribute ANYTHING to this thread, only to now realize what a mongoloid I must have appeared to shush for him to have had to explain to me "how to get my fan to work" :cross:
 
I can't contribute ANYTHING to this thread, only to now realize what a mongoloid I must have appeared to shush for him to have had to explain to me "how to get my fan to work" :cross:

lol, dont worry about it, helping people is its own reward... besides, it's not what you know but your willingness to learn that defines what you can be IMO.

If you need any more help with that or just have questions just PM me and I'll be happy to 'splain it to you.
 
Thanks, I'll just go ahead with my build and give the idea a shot after I get it all working (which may be a good few months, so patience is a virtue.... that I have to participate in but dont like).

If you are anxious to give this a go and see if it works we could tie it into my automation on my rig. I live in denver as well (or close enough anyway). I'd love to talk to you about this idea. I'm a mechanical engineer. I can keep up with most of what you are saying but dont fully understand :tank::drunk:.
 
If you are anxious to give this a go and see if it works we could tie it into my automation on my rig. I live in denver as well (or close enough anyway). I'd love to talk to you about this idea. I'm a mechanical engineer. I can keep up with most of what you are saying but dont fully understand :tank::drunk:.

What are you using for the controller of your rig? Dependent on that we could sure try a test run.
 
why do you say that ?

Well, I calibrated my Hydrometer after assuming it worked with the spreadsheet from MoreBeer. Then I checked the two together after fermentation was completed and it was always , or I'll say most of the time, off. I am going to try this site next time though and give it another whirl.

http://onebeer.net/refractometer.shtml

What do ya think?
 
Ahhhh. Gotcha. I guess I could do that if the new calculator doesn't work. I just wanted to be able to use it always so as not to be wasting wort when checking final gravity.
 
Well, I calibrated my Hydrometer after assuming it worked with the spreadsheet from MoreBeer. Then I checked the two together after fermentation was completed and it was always , or I'll say most of the time, off. I am going to try this site next time though and give it another whirl.

http://onebeer.net/refractometer.shtml

What do ya think?

My refractometer is generally within .002 of my hydrometer. I use the refractometer tool in BeerSmith. It also has a tool to calibrate against your hydrometer. Nothing will replace my finish hydrometer for FG testing, but the refractometer allows me to check progress fairly closely without having to draw a large sample.
 
Ahhhh. Gotcha. I guess I could do that if the new calculator doesn't work. I just wanted to be able to use it always so as not to be wasting wort when checking final gravity.

That's why you drink the FG sample... as not to waste good beer :)
 
Ahhhh. Gotcha. I guess I could do that if the new calculator doesn't work. I just wanted to be able to use it always so as not to be wasting wort when checking final gravity.

Its not a waste of wort, it's a taste test!! Besides, i put mine back in all the time. Jus tmake sure you sanitize your stuff.

the only time I check my gravity is when the bubbles have stopped and when i kick the fermenter nothing comes out. When else do you need to check it ( unless of course you need to make an adjustment somehow)?
 
Oh a lab jack, that would make things much easier for testing the idea, we can just wire the whole thing straight into its digital inputs and giver her a go.

If you're up for it, it would be pretty simple to use parts from radio shack to build a test run and see how it goes.

Oh, and it was my understanding that the alcohol post fermination makes a decent effect on the refractive index to SG calculations, which is most likely why it's not working like you hope, but as you've seen some places have a calibration or some math to try to correct for that...
 
That's a really interesting idea, I suspect you would have to have a very large area for your capacitor, considering the width of your dielectric is likely to be very large.

This is an approach I hadn't thought of for automated measurement. My mental musings have relied on optics rather than electronics for measuring refractive index (actually there's electronics in there too, but...)
 
Oh a lab jack, that would make things much easier for testing the idea, we can just wire the whole thing straight into its digital inputs and giver her a go.

If you're up for it, it would be pretty simply to use parts from radio shack to build a test run and see how it goes.

Yeah, I'm down for giving it a try. If it works I'll pay for the parts :)

Sent you a PM with my e-mail.
 
Hey, this thread may be on the expired side, but I'm curious. Did you guys ever get this idea tested? I would love to implement it on my Raspberry Pi controlled rig.
 
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