KoedBrew
Well-Known Member
I posted this as a response to a post asking what to consider before going all-grain. I put some time into it so I figured I would post it for everyone to see.
These are all things I am trying to perfect now, but I also have to include all of the All-Grain considerations.
Perfect other stages of your brewing process prior to switching to all-grain.
Couple things to focus on (In my opinion)
1. The Boil: this is important and so much happens in the boil that is overlooked.
A. Make sure you are getting the right amount of boil-off, start with X gallons and boil Y minutes to come up with Z gallons of final Wort at the correct gravity.
(That being said I would get a Brew Kettle that can handle the full amount of the boil and a Wort Chiller first!)
B.Boiling lowers the pH level in the wort, crating a proper environment for the hop utilization.
C.Boiling Sterilizes the Wort
D.Boiling temperature destroys enzymes: if they would not be destroyed, they would continue to work during fermentation.
E.Boiling creates an environment for extraction of hop resins and allows them to be processed
D.A Rolling boil causes the unstable proteins to coagulate. Tannins extracted from husks and hops help this process happen.
E.Cooling the Wort...You have created a sterile wort, as soon as it drops below 140F it becomes infectable again. So you want to cool it fast and get it in an environment where it will be safe. Also, cooling the wort prevents off flavors like DMS.
Proper boiling creates the stable environment for fermentation (Which is the second thing I would focus on before switching).
2. Fermentation: Pay attention to quality of fermentation (not quick quantity), and Proper fermentation should be mastered(figured out at least) prior to switching to All-grain.
A. YEAST STARTERS! They are crucial! Make a yeast starter for every beer over 1.050. Use mrmalty.com.
A1.Oxygen...Make sure a ton of oxygen gets into your wort, via a stone, or lots of shaking or transferring, ect...
B. I would recommend Glass or Steel for fermentation. Before you go all-grain have a good fermentation vessel. Switching to all-grain and still fermenting in a bucket is a bad move in my opinion.
C. Hopefully you can remove as much of the break material as possible prior to pitching...these proteins can cause problems for your yeast and just be a nasty mess in the fermentation vessel.
D.Temperature Control, you really need to determine the temperature you want for fermentation and get that to be as consistent as possible. I am lucky to have a basement that stays between 65-66F During cool months and 68-70 during hot months...but during each fermentation you want to know your temps and keep it consistent. Unless you are trying some advanced techniques. If you want to Lager you need temp control for that.
E. TIME Time is crucial...There are very few beers that are better with a shorter fermentation time. Have patience and Let them puppies sit, let the yeast completely clean up the wort ferment completely and then give it time to clean up and settle down.
Consider it like when picking up a woman when you are dating, the package may say 1 week, but just like that date said I'll be ready at 7pm,it ain't happening. We all know there are much more Complex Processes that women go through to get ready and very few of them are ready when they say they will be. Well neither will your beer. Give it 3 weeks or more before you touch it. (Again my opinion, A lot of beers can be ready sooner)
F.No Secondary is necessary on Most beers. More problems can be cause from secondary-ing a beer than not.
Of course bottling and kegging are important, but my fingers are tired.
If you got those nailed then go All-grain, but until you have them completely figured stick with Extract. And when you start buying for all-grain...Buy Big! You will eventually want to upgrade it so just start that way.
These are all things I am trying to perfect now, but I also have to include all of the All-Grain considerations.
Perfect other stages of your brewing process prior to switching to all-grain.
Couple things to focus on (In my opinion)
1. The Boil: this is important and so much happens in the boil that is overlooked.
A. Make sure you are getting the right amount of boil-off, start with X gallons and boil Y minutes to come up with Z gallons of final Wort at the correct gravity.
(That being said I would get a Brew Kettle that can handle the full amount of the boil and a Wort Chiller first!)
B.Boiling lowers the pH level in the wort, crating a proper environment for the hop utilization.
C.Boiling Sterilizes the Wort
D.Boiling temperature destroys enzymes: if they would not be destroyed, they would continue to work during fermentation.
E.Boiling creates an environment for extraction of hop resins and allows them to be processed
D.A Rolling boil causes the unstable proteins to coagulate. Tannins extracted from husks and hops help this process happen.
E.Cooling the Wort...You have created a sterile wort, as soon as it drops below 140F it becomes infectable again. So you want to cool it fast and get it in an environment where it will be safe. Also, cooling the wort prevents off flavors like DMS.
Proper boiling creates the stable environment for fermentation (Which is the second thing I would focus on before switching).
2. Fermentation: Pay attention to quality of fermentation (not quick quantity), and Proper fermentation should be mastered(figured out at least) prior to switching to All-grain.
A. YEAST STARTERS! They are crucial! Make a yeast starter for every beer over 1.050. Use mrmalty.com.
A1.Oxygen...Make sure a ton of oxygen gets into your wort, via a stone, or lots of shaking or transferring, ect...
B. I would recommend Glass or Steel for fermentation. Before you go all-grain have a good fermentation vessel. Switching to all-grain and still fermenting in a bucket is a bad move in my opinion.
C. Hopefully you can remove as much of the break material as possible prior to pitching...these proteins can cause problems for your yeast and just be a nasty mess in the fermentation vessel.
D.Temperature Control, you really need to determine the temperature you want for fermentation and get that to be as consistent as possible. I am lucky to have a basement that stays between 65-66F During cool months and 68-70 during hot months...but during each fermentation you want to know your temps and keep it consistent. Unless you are trying some advanced techniques. If you want to Lager you need temp control for that.
E. TIME Time is crucial...There are very few beers that are better with a shorter fermentation time. Have patience and Let them puppies sit, let the yeast completely clean up the wort ferment completely and then give it time to clean up and settle down.
Consider it like when picking up a woman when you are dating, the package may say 1 week, but just like that date said I'll be ready at 7pm,it ain't happening. We all know there are much more Complex Processes that women go through to get ready and very few of them are ready when they say they will be. Well neither will your beer. Give it 3 weeks or more before you touch it. (Again my opinion, A lot of beers can be ready sooner)
F.No Secondary is necessary on Most beers. More problems can be cause from secondary-ing a beer than not.
Of course bottling and kegging are important, but my fingers are tired.
If you got those nailed then go All-grain, but until you have them completely figured stick with Extract. And when you start buying for all-grain...Buy Big! You will eventually want to upgrade it so just start that way.