SS Fire ring for sparge attachment?

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BeardedIdiot

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I was browsing the interwebs for ideas to build a sparge arm, and came across these two items. I was wondering if anyone has used something like this (meant for gas use, not liquid) for a sparge arm?

They're made of 304SS, the're the right diameter to fit just under a lid, and they're about as clean looking as you could ask.

I was thinking about making something similar out of copper, but this would be a lot easier (and I've got $25 gift card, so it wouldn't cost any more than copper would).

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SSBY3QA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPR6QRM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Both look fairly decent. I don't see why you couldn't make either work with your set up. I think that you could make one from CPVC for less than 1/4 of the cost though.
 
Cpvc would be cheaper, but I'm trying to avoid any plastics in the hot side process. Metal and silicone hose is all I'd like. Not sure that I will go with a sparge, since at the moment I BIAB, but this seems a very simple ready-made option if I decide it's something I want to do.

I'm adding a pump and DIY counterflow chiller, with a return whirlpool arm.
 
Agreed, at those prices it's not cheaper than something purpose-build. Could always DIY something copper if you arent requiring SS.
 
Cpvc would be cheaper, but I'm trying to avoid any plastics in the hot side process.

Sparge water would never be above the rated temperature for CPVC.


I found this about CPVC temperature rating. 'Corrosion resistant pressure pipe, IPS sizes 1/4" through 24", for use at temperatures up to and including 200°F.'

If you are sparging with water over 200*F, I'm sorry, but you are doing something wrong.
 
JonW is correct - it is heavier than you may think.

But if you do pursue... you will need to open up the holes a bit, unless you are only sparging (not recirculating) through it.

CA Mouse is correct also... the C in CPVC is there to handle the heat.
 
I am very familiar with using CPVC for hot water supplies, and I'm not planning on sparging with water that hot (maybe not actually sparging at all, probably just mash recirculation, once I add something like a RIMS tube so I don't have to direct fire).

I would simply rather stick with copper or stainless in my mash tun. Simply personal preference. I figured there were probably reasonable purpose-built version out there, I just hadn't seen any in my searching, and thought these looked like a decent alternative.

Thanks for the responses.
 
Why not just use Loc-lines? 1/2" fitting and enough loc-lines to make a ring. Cheap and easy. You can move it up or down to meet the grain bed. You can even whirlpool with it. Not to mention it's about 20 bucks.
 
I have considered the loc-lines, and I like the flexibility they offer. But as I mentioned above, I'm trying to avoid plastic in the mash tun, and I also have concerns about being able to keep them clean. Lots of nooks and crannies to catch wort and grow bugs if my sanitation isn't top notch.
 
I just ordered the Loc lines for sparging and recirculating. I do plan on keeping them clean, but not too worried about "bugs" as I always boil for at least 60 minutes. Shouldn't be a problem. But I do like the look of that SS sparge arm.

Edit: Just noticed it's only 3/8. Don't like it too much now.
 
I use a loc-line in a ring and it works awesome as mentioned above. I don't know why "bugs" would be a concern - the wort is boiled after recirculating/sparging.

Anyway, mine connects inside the MT via a camlock disconnect. So it is easily removed for cleaning. I usually just give it a rinse thoroughly. And let it air dry. Given all the holes, water drains out easily.
 
I just ordered the Loc lines for sparging and recirculating. I do plan on keeping them clean, but not too worried about "bugs" as I always boil for at least 60 minutes. Shouldn't be a problem. But I do like the look of that SS sparge arm.

Edit: Just noticed it's only 3/8. Don't like it too much now.

The 3/8 doesn't make a difference for sparge water. I use 30 gallon kettles and that thing can fill my mash tun faster than I can gravity flow out while fly sparging. I used a compression fitting to attach it to my 1/2" tubing. Works beautifully. The only thing I did do was set up a separate attachment for vorlauf because the head would clog so now I only use it for sparge water.
 
I have considered the loc-lines, and I like the flexibility they offer. But as I mentioned above, I'm trying to avoid plastic in the mash tun, and I also have concerns about being able to keep them clean. Lots of nooks and crannies to catch wort and grow bugs if my sanitation isn't top notch.

Something to keep in mind is only certian black plastic loc line components are food grade.... I'm using some orange and black stuff myself and technically its not foodgrade. It has something to do with the Dye used I believe and those selling it as sparge arms are aware of it although there was no comment when I brought it up. It would be nice to know if its just a certification cost thing or something we should actually be concerned about. in any case from all the reading Ive done on using copper I believe the plastic has got to be the lesser of 2 evils here...
:off:
Everyone has a different opinion on this but.. Beer brewing is the ONLY instance where copper is allowed to be used in contact with food/ beverage and that looks like its going to change soon. I spoke with a brewery owner who was also a biologist in Belgium who told me copper was discouraged from being used and the copper equipment is being replaced/phased out because of health effects and not just the cleaning advantages that are popularly attributed to going to stainless.. Its an extremely costly thing to phase out and because of the large amount of older copper equipment its is being done slowly. The same reasons its been banned from use for cooking utensils. Like leeching non food grade plastics it likely wont kill you and the yeast supposedly eat and take the heavy metals to the bottom /trub with their corpses but I'd like to avoid all of it if possible myself. Copper toxicity is a real thing and some people do get it from things like cooking in non lined copper pots.
People are often misinformed with comments like copper is good for you and its found naturally in your blood but its not that simple..
Here is a quote from wiki,

"Nutritionally, there is a distinct difference between organic and inorganic copper, according to whether the copper ion is bound to an organic ligand.[2][3] Organic copper, like that found in food, is a beneficial micronutrient needed for good health.[4] Inorganic metallic copper, like that found in electrical wire, plumbing pipes, brass fittings, redox water filters, sheet metal, cooking utensils, jewelry and pennies, is a neurotoxic heavy metal linked to physical and psychiatric symptoms on par with mercury and lead"
 
Something to keep in mind is only certian black plastic loc line components are food grade.... I'm using some orange and black stuff myself and technically its not foodgrade. It has something to do with the Dye used I believe and those selling it as sparge arms are aware of it although there was no comment when I brought it up.

According to the loc line manufacturer the orange and black are NSF certified and meetd FDA requirements.
 
...Everyone has a different opinion on this but.. Beer brewing is the ONLY instance where copper is allowed to be used in contact with food/ beverage and that looks like its going to change soon. ...

I agree. I currently only have my two chillers that are copper but I am trying to figure out how best to swap them out to eliminate all copper in my rig. Plate chillers would be great but clogging is a real concern as I whirlpool. And the SS counterflow chillers don't work all that well with heat transfer... so in a bit of a quandry here.
 
According to the loc line manufacturer the orange and black are NSF certified and meetd FDA requirements.

Good to know but I specifically remember reading that only the black was at the time on another site besides loc lines themselves. ... Very possible I was reading incorrect or outdated info. The info loc line provides now just states the blue orange and black uses the dye in a way that allows it to meet FDA requirements for contact with food. its then says it meets NSF standard for potable water but since it is not made in an FDA approved facility it is not certified as such. They also state that they do not warrant any particular related food application. Still its good to know that it technically is comprised of materials that are food safe. Like I said i use the stuff myself.
 
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