Rims build - Questions

Hello All, I have a couple questions about building a RIMS system.

I am going to build a system similar to the Brutus 10 and instead of direct fire and recirc. the mash, I want to purchase a RIMS tube from brewers hardware and recirc. that way. I will also use a heating element with a temp probe and controller to recirc. the HLT. My question is, does anyone know of a controller to set your target temp and once you hit your target temp have some sort of alarm go off to indicate that you need to shut off your burner of which then the pumps will kick in and start the recirc. I am not going to do a lot of automation so I am eliminating controlled valves for the burners. They will be turned off and on.

The other question I have is that I already have my stand and kettles already made. I am about to make the RIMS tube purchase from brewers hardware but I have tried to contact them by e-mail (the only way) and I get nothing back. I want to speak with them about what type of heating element I need to purchase, what type of heat sensor/probe, and controller i will need. I am not looking for a lot of automation and i'm trying to keep it simple so that can give you an idea what I am looking for. What I will say is that I do want to go with a "love" type controller that can be mounted to a control box. Anyway, any advice would be great. I know this has come up a lot, I've done so much reading but nothing seems to be cut and dry.

Electrical question. I live in a home that I rent and I will be brewing in the garage which only has 1 outlet. I fear that I will not have enough power to use heating elements and pumps at the same time. Can anyone go over how much power I will possibly need to run my brew system. Or maybe what type of devices I should stick with that will allow me to run everything and do it well?

Feel free to point me in the right direction to other threads or websites.

Thank you.

Have you checked this thread? https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/. It should answer most, if not all of your questions.

Yes I did, I read the whole thing. The problem is that most people in the thread started and never finished. Or they did and never posted. It's driving me nuts!

I'll try to help, I've built one and it works great.

The controller most people use is this.http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106

It has alarm outputs that can be wired into a buzzer or light alarm. You can also use one alarm output as an override to prevent dry-firing the element. I constantly recirculate after strike, so my pump runs continuously during the mash. You'll also need an SSR for the element. It's in the parts list on the first page of that thread.

Derrin is a member here, perhaps you could PM him. Just do a search for brewers hardware or a member search for "Derrin". Or keep trying the email. I have one of his RIMS tubes and they are top quality. You can order a 120v low-density element from www.plumbingsupply.com.

I use a k-type thermocouple sensor (also auberins) but a bunch of people use the RTD temperature sensor as well. If you go with the RTD, I think Derrin's stock thermowell accepts the probe. I had to switch out a 1/2" threaded tri-clover to accomodate the thermocouple. No problem though, Derrin hooked me right up. I bought the 4" Thermocouple.

I run mine on a 15-amp circuit with a GFCI outlet. I have no problems. The element and pump combined only pull around 11-12 amps.

For a bare-bones RIMS, Sawdustguy's schematic and build can't be beat. Just replace the RIMS tubes, and follow the schematic. You'll be fine. Good luck.

Perhaps I can suggest a build? It's been documented on another board. Parts lists, build costs, etc.

PM if you have additional questions.

http://www.stlbrews.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=3109

I'm not automating my burners, right now I have 4 high pressure burners and what I want to do is some how use something to ignite them. Do you know of anything that can ignite my burners for me by pressing a button once I turn on the valve. I'm thinking of a generic igniter you would see on a home grill or something like it. Im also wondering if some brewers like us have this feature.

Also,

I have not seen your control panel but your PID's, pump switches, etc, are they all hooked up to a power supply and then the power supply is plugged into an outlet? Our how do you have that done?

pola0502ds said:

Also,

I have not seen your control panel but your PID's, pump switches, etc, are they all hooked up to a power supply and then the power supply is plugged into an outlet? Our how do you have that done?

Click to expand...

My control panel uses standard 120V on a 20amp circuit. I switch the outlets on the control panel to which the pump and RIMS are plugged into.

Actually all you need is a digital thermometer with an alarm if you are going to control the temperature manually. You don't need to spend the money for a PID. This digital thermometer with work. It is accurate, and only $29 which is a lot less than you will spend on a PID. It is made by the same company that makes the famous Thermapen.




http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/ecotemp.html

Won't you still overshoot the temp this way? Isn't this why you need a PID, to avoid overshooting the target. I know the PID also maintains temperature, but this is another big reason to get one, no?

Although this is cheaper, PID is $45, water tight thermocouple, $25 or so - you do save $40 - but lose a lot of functionality.

I have the same question as gonza..

Can someone point me in the right direction for switches for pumps? I need 2 switches to mount to my control panel to turn my pumps on and off.

Also, tell me if this makes sense and point me in the right direction for these. I ordered a PID to operate my RIMS. I think I am going to need a switch to power on/off the PID and a power on/off for my heating element. Is this true or does the PID take care of all this. If I need switches, please point me in the right direction as well.

One othing thing I wanted to do was add a thermo couple to my HLT. I want it to run to a display that can tell me what the current temp is. I want this display to also be able to send a signal to a alarm when i have reached my target temp. Do people do this? Can you point me in the right direction where I can find a device that will allow me to set a target temp and active a alarm once I get there.

Thanks guys.

pola0502ds said:

Can someone point me in the right direction for switches for pumps? I need 2 switches to mount to my control panel to turn my pumps on and off.

Also, tell me if this makes sense and point me in the right direction for these. I ordered a PID to operate my RIMS. I think I am going to need a switch to power on/off the PID and a power on/off for my heating element. Is this true or does the PID take care of all this. If I need switches, please point me in the right direction as well.

One othing thing I wanted to do was add a thermo couple to my HLT. I want it to run to a display that can tell me what the current temp is. I want this display to also be able to send a signal to a alarm when i have reached my target temp. Do people do this? Can you point me in the right direction where I can find a device that will allow me to set a target temp and active a alarm once I get there.

Thanks guys.

Click to expand...

I depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Since you are using a RIMS, PID, and pump to maintain your mash temp, it sounds like you are trying to make a system like many of those here.

Here is a picture of my controller. The switches are simple SPST 250V 15A. Each one controls 1/2 of the duplex outlet. Top is RIMS tube element, bottom is pump.



Here is the schematic I drew up of the controller. Thanks to P-J, Kal, Tiber-brew and others who inspired this.


I do not have a master power on/off switch, but probably should. Once the box is plugged in it is energized. This is my choice, knowing full well the consequences so no feed back required for this.

You can certainly use an inexpensive digital thermometer to measure the temperature of your strike water in the HLT. In my pyramidal configuration I get the strike water pretty close to my actual temp then drain the water into my mash tun, stir it up, then let it settle for about 10 minutes. The next step is the Recirculation.

With recirculation I drain from the mash tun down to my pump, then up through the RIMS tube (controlled with a PID) and then back into the tun.

The RIMS tube then maintains the mash temp for the next 50 minutes ensuring an even temperature in the tun.

At this point I get my sparge water up to temp.

Once the mash is done I pump directly into the boil kettle then add my sparge water to the mash tun, stir it up, wait 10 minutes (without recirculating), then pump that into the boil kettle.

Once the boil starts I clean up the mash tun and RIMS tube. I keep hot water in the HLT for cleanup purposes.

The #1 key thing here is to sit down with paper and pencil and think about what you want to accomplish, then do it.

I read where you can wire the PID to keep the heating element from dry-firing. I have the SYL 4352 can someone tell me how to wire this feature? Thanks

rrogerstwo said:

I read where you can wire the PID to keep the heating element from dry-firing. I have the SYL 4352 can someone tell me how to wire this feature? Thanks

Click to expand...

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4238898/heater_with_alarm.jpg

It's just a matter of wiring in the alarm to always be active until a set-point is reached. It's the low-alarm. You want it to stay active until it hits 170 or so. This way won't necessarily preclude a dry-fire, but the element will be de-energized before it burns up. I have mine set just above any mash temperatures that I normally use.