60A Spa Panel Question

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dtfeld

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Purchased a 60A spa panel to supply GFCI protected power to my system. The ultimate plan is to run 6/3 to the control box and be capable of a back to back double brew day (start second mash once first batch is in the brew kettle) firing dual 5500W elements.

For now though, I only need 1 30A circuit. The box has the capability of adding either 2 single pole CB's or 1 double pole. Are these additional circuit breaker slots protected by the main 60A GFCI breaker??? Cant find documentation with the box.

In 110V household circuits, I recall that if the first receptical on the branch is GFCI, then the rest down line are procted as well.
Would the same apply to the spa panel?

If so, I have enough 10/3 to get me back up in running in my new location.:ban:
 
The GFCI only protects downstream. The additional spaces in the spa panel are connected to the main bus for the incoming power. If you add a single pole breaker and need it to be GFCI protected then you need to purchase a GFCI breaker.
 
After a little more reading I have to agree with the other slits are not protected. Guess I'm going to have to buck up for some 6/3.
 
regarding 6/3 cable. Is your control panel ONLY 240V? No 120V items in it like a pump or anything?
 
I should say 6/3 and 10/3 w ground, theres 4 wires in each.
 
Isn't 4/3 w/ground necessary for 60amps? At least, that is what the guy at Home Depot told me :S
 
6 gage = 60amps
6/3 romex is (3) 6 gage wire (two hots, one neutral) with (1) ground wire

Are you running romex or (individual) stranded through conduit?
 
6/3 romex purchased from HD online only $107 for 50' delivered to the door. Hell, the 50' of 10/3 is $94 in the store, so I think this is a good deal.

It is stranded 6 guage black/red/white, with a solid #10 bare ground.

this is "rated" at 55A, but I've been told you can round up to 60.

Here's the link.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Since 60A Levitron type connectors are scarce if not impossible to find, I'm planning on hard wiring into some 1in/4out power distribution blocks from Automation Direct to distribute to individual 30A 240V circuits for the Heaters and a separate 10 for everything else.

Currently working with a Siemens S7-1200 PLC with 8 RTD inputs for the control side.
 
dtfeld,
That wire is good for 60amps. Since it is romex, you will be running in the walls/ceiling to the location?

You should be able to find some connectors for that size wire. But, my relay comes with big blocks for that size wire. But, sounds like you are branching off to other areas?

Pictures! Diagrams! More, more.


DO NOT run romex in conduit. This wire is meant for dry location!
 
Sparky,

Would what would be the correct wire to feed a panel, 60Amp, say, across the room similiar to any power cord? I assume this would be a bad idea for that type of run?

Also, isn't the 6/3 good for 60Amps under intermitten load, but under continous load shouldn't we be looking at something in the 75A (4/3) range? This is what my HD "expert" told me, but natrually who can trust the HD guys? So I'd prefer to get a better recommendation here.
 
The 6 gage or 4 gage choice depends upon your system and loads.
I re-read the original post and it actually sounds like a build that I will be doing too (see layout below)! Two elements with the other gizmos.

If you have (2) 5500 Watt elements going at the same time:
5500/240 = ~23amps
(2) elements = 46 amps
The other equipment (pumps, lights, etc.) probably draws 4 amps.
So, lets call it all at 50 amps.
Add in the overcurrent protection...
50 amps x 120% = 60amps.

Then, there is wire type, distance of wire run, etc. For my setup, running 6 gage THWN-2 in conduit is good for 75 amps (per Table 310.16, NEC). Personally, I am going with 6 gage and a 60amp GFCI protecting the system.

Brewery Build.jpg
 
Sparky,
Would what would be the correct wire to feed a panel, 60Amp, say, across the room similiar to any power cord? I assume this would be a bad idea for that type of run?

Depends upon your room layout and if it is finished or not.
- Romex (6/3) to run through walls/ceiling. Remember that romex needs to be protected under 8'. So that means placing it behind sheetrock/plywood, etc. There is allowances for crawl spaces and attics. Romex is meant for dry areas. Romex is easier to run in dry areas that are exposed.

- Conduit (EMT, PVC, Rigid, etc.). Conduit is great for protecting the wires. Typically EMT is run in most garages, etc. Use PVC for underground use. Typically, schedule 40 PVC for complete burial and schedule 80 PVC if exposed. EMT is best for enclosed (sheetrock) utility areas if you do not want to open the walls/ceiling.

And, I would stick with 6 gage: either 6/3 romex OR (3) 6 gage + (1) 10 gage ground in pipe.

Again, DO NOT run romex in conduit!
 
Sparky,

From what you say, would this power cord work? I would be running it from the control box, across the floor 12 feet, and plugging it into the wall. I am doing this to make my rig, semi-portable. Would this cord work in that type of scenario? Btw, my rig is simliar to yours (2x5500W, 2 pumps, 2 aux outlets + up to 8A for valves).

Thanks for the advice!
 
Triangle,

I will have the same set-up so thanks for the research on the cord! I would love to see your setup with the valves, etc. The 8amps for valves, seems kinda high, but I am not sure on the amp draw for valves (I thought it would be peanuts). I know the MARCH pumps are around 1.3 amps.

I think the reason why they list 55amps for STOW is that the wire is contained in a rubber jacket so it is derated from a heat standpoint. But, it looks good, nice and beefy and rated well. I would just check your total amp draw with those valves before going with it.

And, I know before someone corrects me.. I know about code requirements on running cords longer than 6', power loss, etc.
 
I logged on to do a little research into going electric and found this thread. I started to think I couldn't do go electric because I wanted to be able to start 1 batch boiling while starting a second batch (now running 2 - 220 elements). It sounds like thats what you want to do. I'm no electrician but figured out I didn't have the power available. I was talking to a friend who does this stuff and he told me that we could run 10/3 from one 30 amp breaker and 10/3 from a 40 amp breaker (both breakers are already there and unused)to a spa panel into my garage and then have all the power I need. Does this sound like it should work?

Do you have a part number for the home depot spa panel?
 
To piggy back on what P-J said, change the 2P40 to a 2P30 if you can't run #8 to the new outlet.
 
To piggy back on what P-J said, change the 2P40 to a 2P30 if you can't run #8 to the new outlet.

The wire is already run to my garage from the 30amp. The 40 would need to be done still so going to 8 wouldn't be a problem except that he already has a roll of 10 gauge that he was going to give me.

What does 2P40 and 2P30 mean? 2 pull 30 amp or 40 amp breaker?

I have more questions but I will start a new thread.
 

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