mash tun issues

So, I have brewed a total of 5 batches so far (all 5 gallon recipes). Every single batch i have brewed, i for the life of me, cannot get the correct (or even close) OG. Its always low, the closest i have gotten is 5-6 points low. I think its my mash tun setup.

Example, i brewed an ipa last weekend and my OG was only 1.050 (recipe:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=529258). Here are the guidelines for mashing and the OG.

Original Gravity: 1.060

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Infusion, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 3 gal
2) Sparge, Temp: 185 F, Time: 15 min, Amount: 5.5 gal
Starting Mash Thickness: 1.33 qt/lb


My mashtun is a coleman 5 gallon cooler (http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/e0/e07631d4-7940-4754-8a66-5b42fa48c5f8_1000.jpg), I can fit 9-11 lbs of grain and 3 gallons of water in the cooler no problem. But, when it comes to sparging time, i think thats the issue.

I cannot fit 5.5 gallons with 9-11 lbs of grain in a 5 gallon cooler (obviously). So, i basically halve it and sparge twice. I followed the directions and i still got a 1.050 OG. Should i extend sparging time to extract more sugars from the grains? Is it an issue that i have to sparge twice? Should i get a bigger cooler?

Any suggestions are welcomed, i have no help aside from this forum.
Thank you in advance.

I use a Rubbermaid 5 gallon tun also. I always drain the tun after the mash time. Then I sparge 2 times, splitting my sparge volume. Almost always hit my numbers. Another thing is check your crush of your grains, that can make a difference if they are not crushed enough.

dmashl said:

Another thing is check your crush of your grains, that can make a difference if they are not crushed enough.

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Most LHBSs have their mill set pretty wide to accommodate everybody. I usually run my grain through twice at my one store and three times at my backup.

When are you measuring your "OG" before or after the boil? If you are measuring the specific gravity after mashing and sparging, but before the boil, you are comparing apples and oranges with the recipe's OG. Because of evaporation, the specific gravity will rise during the boil.

Derek1985 said:

Most LHBSs have their mill set pretty wide to accommodate everybody. I usually run my grain through twice at my one store and three times at my backup.

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I will run it through twice from now on. Thank you.

dmashl said:

I use a Rubbermaid 5 gallon tun also. I always drain the tun after the mash time. Then I sparge 2 times, splitting my sparge volume. Almost always hit my numbers. Another thing is check your crush of your grains, that can make a difference if they are not crushed enough.

Click to expand...

Good to know I am not the only one who has to do so. Thank you.

pvpeacock said:

When are you measuring your "OG" before or after the boil? If you are measuring the specific gravity after mashing and sparging, but before the boil, you are comparing apples and oranges with the recipe's OG. Because of evaporation, the specific gravity will rise during the boil.

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After boil, once it's cooled down. Usually around 78-80, then I do the hydrometer temp correction. Thanks!

Are you using your own brew software, or just going off a recipe?
If you are using somebody else's recipe, and your efficiency is not the same as those recipe's, you will never hit the numbers.
There are lot's of things you can do to try and get better efficiency, by why fret over a few pennies worth of grain?
I suggest getting a good brew software like Beersmith, and adjust the recipe to YOUR equipment and efficiency profile. It will automatically adjust the recipe to your system.

acidrain said:

Are you using your own brew software, or just going off a recipe?
If you are using somebody else's recipe, and your efficiency is not the same as those recipe's, you will never hit the numbers.
There are lot's of things you can do to try and get better efficiency, by why fret over a few pennies worth of grain?
I suggest getting a good brew software like Beersmith, and adjust the recipe to YOUR equipment and efficiency profile. It will automatically adjust the recipe to your system.

Click to expand...

This makes perfect sense. I should probably not be a cheap ass and buy beersmith.

Can an idiot like me figure it out? Sometimes when I'm using mash water calc or some other calc, I am not sure about some of the #s.

Thank you.

Beersmith takes some time to learn. There are features in it I haven't discovered yet, I'm sure. The most important part is imputing your equipment profile. Once you know what your dead space and other losses are, your boil-off rate, etc. Enter them and name your equipment profile. Then you can import or make your own recipes, and you'll hit your numbers every time.
It's not a matter of being cheap... it's taking your brewing to a new level. There will be many new levels in your journey.

Grind finer, get a second 5g cooler, line your coolers with 5g paint strainer bags (kinda like a mini BIAB).

Heat your strike and sparge water in a kettle, then pour into the coolers for mash. When you are done, drain the wort into another 5g bucket or container.

Then do a batch sparge by filling your cooler up again, stir good and wait about 5-10 minutes and drain again. Sometimes I even do a third.

Then take out the bag(s) and do a dunk sparge in the kettle, making sure to really open up the grains, dunking the bag (holding on to scrunched up top to keep it closed). I push and squish the grain around with my mash paddle.

Pull that bag and let it drain for a bit into the kettle. This dunk sparge water is almost always 1.020+ for me. When you are done combine everything in the kettle. It goes pretty quickly and I hit 82-85% almost every single time this way. My beers are largely Belgians and are excellent with no graininess, no harsh flavors, no tannins, etc.


BTW- There is a really great calculator on this page called "Can I Mash It?" that calculates the volume of mash when you give it mash thickness and pounds of grain. You should be able to get close to 13lbs of grain in there.
http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml