super cheap and easy sanke fermenter blowoff

i searched around and didn't see much, and i'm sure it's been done many times before, but i wanted to share what i am doing for my sanke fermenter blowoff.

here is what you need:
- 2" washer
- #10 drilled stopper
- sanke standard spiral retaining ring
- 7/16" OD hose or airlock

put the stopper in upside down, put the washer on top, depress slightly and install the snap ring. insert blowoff or airlock. the stopper + washer are the perfect height, no need to shave anything down and it provides plenty of pressure to seal. also, i bought a bunch of washers and one of them happened to not fit (tad too big), so buy a few just in case.

also, i ordered some regular snap rings (mcmaster part # 99142A590) to use instead of the sanke-spiral type - should be a little easier to get in and out. i'll post an update when they come in.

I don't see what the advantage is of having the washer and spiral ring installed. When I ferment in Sankes I simply take out the spear, which you have done as well, insert a size 11 drilled stopper and an airlock or blow off tube. When fermentation is done I remove the stopper, insert the spear, install the tap and pump to a corny as either a secondary or for serving. With this design you would have to remove the sprial ring and then reinstall it if you want a closed transfer.

I don't want to bash it I'm just wondering what your method is and how it helps you to have this setup. Thanks for the pics.

the stopper I use is big enough that it sticks out and I just push it in,pull it out. you will be a master at removing the ring in no time this way. too much work for me.

Not to bash either, just seems a little overamplificated.........lol

mmmm...I guess there is no benefit. I didn't realize #11 would fit. Does it go below the notch in the top ring?

A number 11 (maybe 11.5) will fit below the notch as long as you push it in a moderately tight. After it's in there will be about a 1/4'' of the stopper sticking out of the top and of course the drilled center portion to insert an airlock or blowoff tube.

I'll run downstairs and make sure it's a size 11.

Yeah it's a size 11. Attached is a picture of it below. You can see how it sticks out slightly from the opening which is helpful in removing. It's air tight and easy to remove for sampling or installing the spear for a closed transfer.


Don't mind the weights in the picture. They're for maintaining my superior body mass.

The next step beyond this setup is to leave the spear in and have a sanke tap installed during fermentation with an airlock coming off the tap. A step beyond that is a closed (pressurized) fermentation with a Spunding valve to control the pressure. I haven't ventured into either of these methods yet but many around here have.

mb2696 said:

mmmm...I guess there is no benefit. I didn't realize #11 would fit. Does it go below the notch in the top ring?

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Your design still works well and could have advantages depending on circumstances whatever they may be. Sometimes posts like these help someone else down the road who relies on your build to design something else.

cool...i'll try the size 11.

Scut_Monkey said:

...Sometimes posts like these help someone else down the road who relies on your build to design something else.

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and yea i agree...sharing info never hurts

mb2696, yours is a fancier more professional looking solution. I just use an orange carboy hood stretched over the neck of the sanke. ;0)

i finally got around to picking up a #11 stopper to try this... i found that it doesn't make a seal. i tested it on an empty keg - i pushed it in basically as far as I could and blew into the drilled hole. air still comes out from the notch

mb2696 said:

i finally got around to picking up a #11 stopper to try this... i found that it doesn't make a seal. i tested it on an empty keg - i pushed it in basically as far as I could and blew into the drilled hole. air still comes out from the notch

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its really not a problem if its not a perfect seal. I have fermented in a sanke with just a stopper and an airlock for awhile and have had no problems

OMJ said:

its really not a problem if its not a perfect seal. I have fermented in a sanke with just a stopper and an airlock for awhile and have had no problems

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it is good enough that the airlock actually bubbles? i would guess that the notch is such an easy flow path that the airlock wouldn't bubble unless you had a really vigorous fermentation.

mb2696 said:

it is good enough that the airlock actually bubbles? i would guess that the notch is such an easy flow path that the airlock wouldn't bubble unless you had a really vigorous fermentation.

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Most of the time my airlock does not bubble.

mb2696 said:

i finally got around to picking up a #11 stopper to try this... i found that it doesn't make a seal. i tested it on an empty keg - i pushed it in basically as far as I could and blew into the drilled hole. air still comes out from the notch

Click to expand...

Hmmm. That's strange. It's really not hard for me to get a full seal by pushing the stopper down with about 1/16 of an inch sticking up. Perhaps you just need to push it down further. Definitely make sure the stopper and the hole of the keg are dry or it will push out on its own.

You could always install the spear and then the tap/coupler with an airlock off of that. Or you could do it the way you designed which seemed to work just fine for you.

Scut_Monkey said:

Hmmm. That's strange. It's really not hard for me to get a full seal by pushing the stopper down with about 1/16 of an inch sticking up. Perhaps you just need to push it down further. Definitely make sure the stopper and the hole of the keg are dry or it will push out on its own.

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Yea I couldn't get it to seal. Maybe the notches are slightly different on different manufacturer's kegs or something.

Scut_Monkey said:

You could always install the spear and then the tap/coupler with an airlock off of that. Or you could do it the way you designed which seemed to work just fine for you.

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Yea, actually given that I can't get a stopper to seal, I really like what I'm using. It is MUCH quicker to install this than to install the spear, for me anyway. I can remove/install my airlock in about 10 seconds, but i takes me minutes to reinstall the spear (hard to compress that o-ring).

Sorry for the change in pace here but what is the easiest method to transfer a sanke fermentor?

SAMPLER said:

Sorry for the change in pace here but what is the easiest method to transfer a sanke fermentor?

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it depends on how you are fermenting and what hardware you have. for me, i just use a long racking cane. i don't ferment with the spear in. if you are fermenting with the spear in, you could transfer under pressure (if you have the tubing/barbs/couplers etc) assuming the trub isn't too deep. i'm sure there are many people who do both easily. easiest for you depends on your setup.

How are you guys cleaning these, with Oxyclean?

Yup, Oxyclean and hot water. Then I store them with around a gallon of StarSan in them.

Scut_Monkey said:

Don't mind the weights in the picture. They're for maintaining my superior body mass.

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I find More Beer and less weights help with superior body mass.

Photopilot said:

I find More Beer and less weights help with superior body mass.

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Good point, but I don't think my wife will buy it. :cross:

cool idea, i've got an old keg laying around to try this in