coopers kit

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superjunior

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I got a coopers brew kit that came with a fermenter bucket, bottles and everything needed to make a 6 gallon batch. Its been fermenting for a week and I'm just about ready to prime and bottle. The instructions say to just add the sugar drops to the bottle and fill. It doesn't say anything about racking or anything to prevent sediment or cloudiness. I'd like to keep this first batch simple as the instructions say. any easy tips on how to keep excessive sediment out? thanks ahead
 
Are you fermenting in a regular food grade bucket or one of those Coopers barrel fermenters? Either way, does your fermenter have a spigot or are you going to use a separate bottling bucket? If you're racking to a bottling bucket just be sure to keep the bottom of the cane or auto-siphon above the trub at the bottom of the fermenter and you should rack over relatively clean beer. If you were going to batch prime you could throw in the priming sugar during the racking over to the bottling bucket, but it sounds like you have carb drops.

Just one other question, you say it has been fermenting for a week, are you sure it's done? Also, even if it is, are you sure you want to rush to bottle so soon?
 
Are you fermenting in a regular food grade bucket or one of those Coopers barrel fermenters? Either way, does your fermenter have a spigot or are you going to use a separate bottling bucket? If you're racking to a bottling bucket just be sure to keep the bottom of the cane or auto-siphon above the trub at the bottom of the fermenter and you should rack over relatively clean beer. If you were going to batch prime you could throw in the priming sugar during the racking over to the bottling bucket, but it sounds like you have carb drops.

Just one other question, you say it has been fermenting for a week, are you sure it's done? Also, even if it is, are you sure you want to rush to bottle so soon?

the kit came with a fermenting bucket with spigot. the instructions say to just bottle right from the bucket with the included carb drops. its not quite done fermenting yet, the airlock is still burping about once every 50 seconds or so. they say when there is no more airlock activity and the hydrometer readings are the same 2 days in a row than bottle. should I wait longer? I'm just following the instructions as I really don't know what I'm doing yet.
 
the kit came with a fermenting bucket with spigot. the instructions say to just bottle right from the bucket with the included carb drops. its not quite done fermenting yet, the airlock is still burping about once every 50 seconds or so. they say when there is no more airlock activity and the hydrometer readings are the same 2 days in a row than bottle. should I wait longer? I'm just following the instructions as I really don't know what I'm doing yet.


Well, I've seen worse instructions. Pay no attention to the airlock, it can tell you when something is happening, but just because it isn't moving doesn't mean there isn't activity. A hydrometer reading a couple of days in a row is a good place to start, but, just because it's safe to bottle doesn't mean it won't benefit from time in the fermenter. The yeast will continue to clean up a lot of waste products and improve the flavor if you leave it another couple of weeks. I always go three weeks in the fermenter. Most of my beers are done fermenting after one week, but I just let them sit. I know that's hard to do with your first beer. You can bottle now, but another week wouldn't hurt. Also, since you're bottling straight from the fermenter the extra time would also allow the yeast to compact a little more at the bottom, making it less likely to be stirred up in your transfer to the bottle.
 
I use the coopers fermenter. I have started letting my beers sit at least 3 weeks. notice a huge difference in taste.
 
I've never tried a Munton's kit. I do know their basic yeast is not very good, but have heard that the Munton's gold yeast is better. I don't have any problems with the Coopers yeast, whether it's the basic yeast you buy in the store or the little packs that come with the cans. Whenever I make a Coopers kit I usually treat it just like any other beer and ferment for three weeks. I use 1 lb each of light DME and dextrose and 1/4 lb of maltodextrin along with the Coopers can. I like Coopers kits because they take very little time and they can make a decent beer if handled properly. With the two little kids running around the house, I don't always have time to pull out all the brew gear for a full extract or an all grain batch. I can do the Coopers beers on my stove and the whole process takes no more than an hour or two.
 
Shooter sorry for the rookie question but what is maltodextrin and what does it do?
 
I like to go with 1 and a hlf pounds of Dme. and 1 lb. dextrose.. I will use the LME if it is under 10$ for the 3.3lb.
 
Shooter sorry for the rookie question but what is maltodextrin and what does it do?

No problem, it's an unfermentable that will add body and mouthfeel. Adding the pound of dextrose can help to drive the fermentation and prevent it from stalling, but it can also thin the beer out a little bit. The maltodextrin helps to counter that. It can be used in other applications as well, not just with canned kits.
 
Everything I've read so far says "wait... and then wait a little longer" (channeling the Tom Petty song in my head "the waiting is the hardest part").

If you haven't already bottled, upgrade to the Coopers carb drops vs. the tabs (the tabs look like little asprins, the carb drops look like rock sugar). Unless you want to mix the dextrose into your bottling bucket.

I probably read it here, that the tabs are good but they might leave little white floaty bits in your finished beer. The drops (supposedly) dissolve better.

That's my plan, at least (for my first batch) which is just into it's first week in the carboy.
 
Everything I've read so far says "wait... and then wait a little longer" (channeling the Tom Petty song in my head "the waiting is the hardest part").

If you haven't already bottled, upgrade to the Coopers carb drops vs. the tabs (the tabs look like little asprins, the carb drops look like rock sugar). Unless you want to mix the dextrose into your bottling bucket.

I probably read it here, that the tabs are good but they might leave little white floaty bits in your finished beer. The drops (supposedly) dissolve better.

That's my plan, at least (for my first batch) which is just into it's first week in the carboy.

Yeah don't use the carb tabs, the Coopers drops are better, But, I have gotten my best results with priming sugar.
 
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