Help with Sculpin recipe

Hi guys,

I plan on brewing this recipe this weekend but looks to me like this is a 5 gallon recipe and i will only brew 1 gallon.

Can someone please confirm if i got this right and this is a 5 gallon recipe? It does not say anything in the original thread.

Also, i could really use some help on the step by step here, the corn sugar will go into the boil or will be used for priming?

I appreciate all the help since i am new to brewing, i only have my first gallon fermenting right now and for that one i have a step by step guide and kit.

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EXTRACT:
6 lbs Dried light malt extract (DME)
1 lbs corn sugar

HOPS
60 minutes
.50 oz warrior
.50 oz Magnum
.25 oz northern brewer
.25 oz columbus

30 minutes
.50 oz crystal
.25 oz centennial
.25 oz Simcoe

0 minutes
1.0 oz Amarillo

DRY HOP
2.0 oz of Amarillo
2.0 oz of Simcoe

YEAST
White labs california Ale yeast wlp001
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I would recommend doing a search in the Recipes tab on this website, using the words Sculpin. I am sure you will find a lot of recipes and you can determine what this is scaled down to.
Here is an example that uses about 5 lbs DME too.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=540758&highlight=sculpin

To answer your questions:

Yes, that recipe is for a five gallon batch

The corn sugar is for the end of the boil, you will need to determine how much more you will need to add at bottling time to achieve your desired amount of carbonation.

To scale this recipe down to a one gallon batch you might get the help you need if you post a request in this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=311884

MerlinWerks said:

To answer your questions:

Yes, that recipe is for a five gallon batch

The corn sugar is for the end of the boil, you will need to determine how much more you will need to add at bottling time to achieve your desired amount of carbonation.

To scale this recipe down to a one gallon batch you might get the help you need if you post a request in this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=311884

Click to expand...

Thanks, that thread will be very helpful.

Now one thing i dont quite understand. When you say the corn sugar is for the end of the boil, it means i will actually add it to the boil? And not only use it to prime and bottle to create carbonation?

luizffgarcia said:

Thanks, that thread will be very helpful.

Now one thing i dont quite understand. When you say the corn sugar is for the end of the boil, it means i will actually add it to the boil? And not only use it to prime and bottle to create carbonation?

Click to expand...

What he means is that you can boost the alcohol percentage by adding 1 lb of corn sugar and let it ferment with the wort. If you dont want that, you can just use it for priming and bottling. Also, I would suggest steeping some specialty grains, they really help when it comes to mold a recipe.

Now one thing i dont quite understand. When you say the corn sugar is for the end of the boil, it means i will actually add it to the boil? And not only use it to prime and bottle to create carbonation?

Click to expand...

Yes, relative to the recipe you posted the corn sugar is an integral part of the boil/recipe and intended to be fermented. You will need to add more for carbonation at bottling time.

The idea behind the corn sugar is that it is 100% fermentable, where maltose (the sugar we get from malted barley) is somewhere around 85% fermentable (depending on mash temp etc). The purpose is to lower the final gravity of the beer, drying it out and thinning the body. This is a common practice in certain belgian styles and in IPA's, where you want a dry finish. Be sure to use an online priming sugar calculator to figure out how much to use when bottling, or you could overcarbonate to the point of bottle bombs! I would also suggest reading as much about brewing as you can, such as John Palmers "How to Brew", which is available for free online: http://www.howtobrew.com Cheers!

Thanks for your help guys, i am reading everything i can for sure and i have lots to learn.

So, the corn sugar would go into the boil right at the start of the boil with the DME?

luizffgarcia said:

Thanks for your help guys, i am reading everything i can for sure and i have lots to learn.

So, the corn sugar would go into the boil right at the start of the boil with the DME?

Click to expand...

End of the boil if you are using it to boost the alcohol. And if you using it for priming, just dont add it, save it for the bottling day

carloscede2 said:

End of the boil if you are using it to boost the alcohol. And if you using it for priming, just dont add it, save it for the bottling day

Click to expand...

I an not quite sure if i am using it to boos the alcohol or for other reasons. Assuming it is for boosting the alcohol, end of boil would be after turning the fire off? Or like in the 10 last minutes of the boil?

Sorry for the noob questions

Last 10 minutes

Thanks for the help guys, i brewed this recipe yesterday and so far it looks and smells good!

Three questions thou:

1 - I did not strain the wort when i moved it to the fermenter, should i in the next batch? There is lots of hops sitting in the bottom.

2 - I have a hydrometer tube and i am wondering how do i get a sample for gravity checks two weeks from now? Do i get some from the fermenter and then put the sample back after testing? How do you do it???

3 - When and how do you dry hop?

Thanks again for the help

To dry hop you have to place the hops when you transfer your beer into the secondary fermenter; that will also get rid of the sediment and the hops sitting in the bottom. The sample you can take it with a siphon, and I usually drink a bit of it and discard it, there is no need to put in risk the wort by putting it back and contaminating it.

luizffgarcia said:

Thanks for the help guys, i brewed this recipe yesterday and so far it looks and smells good!

Three questions thou:

1 - I did not strain the wort when i moved it to the fermenter, should i in the next batch? There is lots of hops sitting in the bottom.

2 - I have a hydrometer tube and i am wondering how do i get a sample for gravity checks two weeks from now? Do i get some from the fermenter and then put the sample back after testing? How do you do it???

3 - When and how do you dry hop?

Thanks again for the help

Click to expand...

1) Good practice yes, strain thru a paint straining bag since cool. Not required however. It does help in aeration.
2) You made 1g, right? If in a jug and within an inch or two so that you can pull hydro back out, I'd suggest putting hydro in your fermenter (assuming a gallon jug you can see thru to read). Don't want to waste too much of your precious brew! Sanitize first!
3) I dry hop about 1 wk on avg after brewing, for 1 wk(all on avg). I'd advise you dry hop in primary with muslin bag. No reason for secondary.
Cheers