Newb ?'s - Full Boil vs. Partial & Cooling Questions

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ic3scrap3r

ic3scrap3r

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I'm preparing to do my first brew and have a few newb questions. I'll be using the Brewers Best American Amber extract kit.
The instructions are HERE
I've read HowToBrew and find it to be an awesome resource, but I really like the feedback of being able to ask some questions that may not have been addressed by that.

Full Boil/Partial Boil?
I don't know if I'll be doing a full or partial boil. The recipe calls for a 2.5 gal boil. From what I've read, I'd really like to do a full boil to get a better flavor. (Is this a good idea for a newb or should I just stick with directions?) I've read several threads on this, but none that addressed a newb doing it.

Cool Down Time?
How long does it usually take to cool down an extract brew to pitching temps without an immersion cooler? (I assume this is dependent on the full vs. partial boil answer.) I expect I'll be placing it in a container (if I'm inside, it will be the sink) with ice to cool it..

Indoors or Outdoors?
I have a Bayou Classic SP10 and a 20qt SS kettle. Would it be best to boil outdoors with this or indoors on an electric stove? It seems that outdoors is a big preference from what I've read here.

Secondary Fermenter?
I have a fermentation bucket and a 5 gal glass carboy as a secondary. Should I skip trying to do the secondary on my first brew, or would it be worth it from a clarity standpoint?

Thanks in advance for any input you might have to help out a newb!:mug:
 
While thinking about it, it seems that an actual full boil is out of the question as my brew pot is only 20 qts!
 
ic3scrap3r said:
I'm preparing to do my first brew and have a few newb questions. I'll be using the Brewers Best American Amber extract kit.
The instructions are HERE
I've read HowToBrew and find it to be an awesome resource, but I really like the feedback of being able to ask some questions that may not have been addressed by that.

Full Boil/Partial Boil?
I don't know if I'll be doing a full or partial boil. The recipe calls for a 2.5 gal boil. From what I've read, I'd really like to do a full boil to get a better flavor. (Is this a good idea for a newb or should I just stick with directions?) I've read several threads on this, but none that addressed a newb doing it.

Cool Down Time?
How long does it usually take to cool down an extract brew to pitching temps without an immersion cooler? (I assume this is dependent on the full vs. partial boil answer.) I expect I'll be placing it in a container (if I'm inside, it will be the sink) with ice to cool it..

Indoors or Outdoors?
I have a Bayou Classic SP10 and a 20qt SS kettle. Would it be best to boil outdoors with this or indoors on an electric stove? It seems that outdoors is a big preference from what I've read here.

Secondary Fermenter?
I have a fermentation bucket and a 5 gal glass carboy as a secondary. Should I skip trying to do the secondary on my first brew, or would it be worth it from a clarity standpoint?

Thanks in advance for any input you might have to help out a newb!:mug:
Click to expand...

Well as a newb myself and going through my first brew I could probably answer most of your questions..through noob eyes :)

1. Probably should start with a partial-boil. It's easier to control 2.5gal rather than 5gal especially since it wont even fit in your kettle (considering the boil-overs, then forget about it).

2. Its not that youre cooling an "extract brew" at this point its wort either way. Its the amount you're trying to cool. cooling 5gal with a sink and ice might take a long time. It took me about 30m to cool 2.5gal of hot wort and I made sure it went to 68F. Another reason you should do a partial-boil, unless you have a wort chiller.

3. Can't answer this question. I boiled mine at home because i live in an apt, and it took a while to boil 2.5gal especially after adding all of the extractable. Probably you should boil it where you think it has a quicker chance of coming to a boil.

4. This is usually preference. I've read a lot about this and a lot of people skip secondary "fermentation" which isn't really fermentation but conditioning. Personally I don't have an issue with cloudy beer, so I let it sit in primary for 3 weeks before I ( ruined ;P ) bottled it. Now I am going to condition it in bottles for 3 weeks. As a newb I'd suggest skipping secondary until you're familiar with all of the equipment that you have and how it works. Trust me..it looks easy but sometimes you're like (wait..what do i do with this?)

hope this helps,

from one newb to another.
 
ic3scrap3r said:
Cool Down Time?
How long does it usually take to cool down an extract brew to pitching temps without an immersion cooler? (I assume this is dependent on the full vs. partial boil answer.) I expect I'll be placing it in a container (if I'm inside, it will be the sink) with ice to cool it..
Click to expand...

I put one gallon of water in the fridge when I start brewing. When it comes time to start cooling the wort I add that one gallon of cold water to the wort and then put the pot of wort in my sink which is filled with cold water. I'll drain the water once, fill the sink with ice and refill it with cold water. My wort is usually at pitching temps in about 20 min.

ic3scrap3r said:
Indoors or Outdoors?
I have a Bayou Classic SP10 and a 20qt SS kettle. Would it be best to boil outdoors with this or indoors on an electric stove? It seems that outdoors is a big preference from what I've read here.
Click to expand...

Either option is viable. If you boil inside you will fill your house with the great smell of brewing! My SWMBO hates that smell, and prefers that I go outside with my beer making.

ic3scrap3r said:
Secondary Fermenter?
I have a fermentation bucket and a 5 gal glass carboy as a secondary. Should I skip trying to do the secondary on my first brew, or would it be worth it from a clarity standpoint?
Click to expand...

As a new brewer I would advise for using a secondary. I am fairly new to the hobby and I secondary all my beers because having a secondary is the only way for me to have a pipeline going. Also when you are new it is nice to secondary to help keep as much sediment out of the final bottled product as possible. Once you get better at racking and whatnot, this won't be as necessary.
 
IMO (not the best answer, but here's what I do at least...)

I try to boil the most I can. When you deviate from the instructions, the hopping has to change as well. Boiling more water at a time adds to better hop utilization. I think Northern Brewer kits say if boiling a full 5 gallons, use 20% less hops? I forget...

It depends on how you cool it and what kind of pot you have. My SS pot with 4 gallons takes 45 minutes in the sink with ice. (2-4 bags of ice...), but my dad's Aluminum pot with 5 gallons took 8 minutes in a tub of 3 bags of ice (almost entirely surrounded by ice - bottom/sides).

The stove will take much longer and will have a weaker boil. If you only do the 2.5 gallons, it probably would boil fine (especially if you can use multiple burners). The bayou classic will obviously be outside and be far more effective with the larger boil. It cuts my brew time in half as compared to a gas stove with only 4 gallons (i do steep the specialty grains on the stove inside though...the big pot doesnt leave enough water depth to cover the bag...).

As for the secondary, I would think most people will tell you its a matter of preference. I've been lazy and not done it and gotten really clear beers. It is certainly not necessary for you, but it's not an awful idea either.

I have gotten my best beers when I've used my Dad's huge Aluminum pot on his turkey fryer and they haven't used secondaries (since I'm never home to transfer them haha).
 
I would say outdoors just because it will save you some hastle of the clean up. Full boils are nice but there is nothing wrong with doing a partial it will also help you cool the wort quicker if you do this. What I used to do is boil ~2 gallons of water and then put it in some large tupperware and freeze it. Put this in the bottom of your primary and pour the hot wrot on top. Then top up to the 5 gal mark. Cools quickly and decreases the chances of infection. If you use a water/ice bath it can take hours to cool to pitching temps. Once you are below 120 you run the risk of infection.

As far as instruction throw them out. To steep the grains put them in the water and bring to 150 and turn off heat. Let them sit for 20-30 mins remove drain (don't squeeze and discard) bring grain tea to boil and REMOVE from heat. Add LME/DME being sure to completely disolve the extract. Bring back up to boil add bittering hops start 60 min timer. With 5 mins left add the aroma/flavor hops. Remove from heat after time.

Cool the wort either by ice bath or ice top up what ever it takes just besure anything that touched the wort is sanitized. Once cooled AIRATE (before pitching the yeast). You can shake, whisk, splash or use a aquiarium pump set-up ~30 dollars to do this.

TAKE A HYDROMETER READING BEFORE YOU PITCH THE YEAST!!!!! Record this in yuor notes.

Pitch yeast seal container and add airlock. You can fill the airlock with sanitizer or vodka or just clean water.

Fermentation can take up to 72 hours to start. Leave it alone for at least 2 weeks before you take another hydrometer sample and possibly transfer to secondary (not needed). Then give it another 2 weeks to clear and clean up any off flavors. Take another hydro sample, wait. Take another one 2-3 days later if they are the same then bottle.
 
ic3scrap3r said:
Full Boil/Partial Boil?
I don't know if I'll be doing a full or partial boil. The recipe calls for a 2.5 gal boil. From what I've read, I'd really like to do a full boil to get a better flavor. (Is this a good idea for a newb or should I just stick with directions?) I've read several threads on this, but none that addressed a newb doing it.
Click to expand...

Definitely follow the earlier poster's plan and boil as much as you can. When I did partial boils in a 20 qt pot I could boil about 4.25 gallons on the stovetop. It's really easy to do if you use Fermcap (foam control); you can boil that much without foam control but the first 10 minutes will be pretty difficult, and you really have to watch out for boil-overs. But in general the more wort you can boil the better the final product will be.

Cool Down Time?
How long does it usually take to cool down an extract brew to pitching temps without an immersion cooler? (I assume this is dependent on the full vs. partial boil answer.) I expect I'll be placing it in a container (if I'm inside, it will be the sink) with ice to cool it..
Click to expand...

The good thing about cooling in the sink is that you can change the water. I could get my partial boils down to pitching temps in about 35 minutes if I changed the water every 10 minutes or so. I'd save most of your ice for the last addition of water - it's pretty easy to cool to ~100 or so, much harder to cool that last 20 degrees. Also, if you keep 2-3 gallons of pre-boiled water in the fridge (as per earlier posts), you only have to chill your wort down to 80 or so, since the cold top-off water will bring it down to proper temps. Make sure you mix really (really!) well.

Indoors or Outdoors?
I have a Bayou Classic SP10 and a 20qt SS kettle. Would it be best to boil outdoors with this or indoors on an electric stove? It seems that outdoors is a big preference from what I've read here.
Click to expand...

You should be able to do the boil indoors, but trust me - outdoors is way better. Don't know if you've got SWMBO around or not, but brewing does kind of stink up the house (well, I really like the smell, but it's not always that pleasant to those who aren't brewing). Also much less to clean up.

Secondary Fermenter?
I have a fermentation bucket and a 5 gal glass carboy as a secondary. Should I skip trying to do the secondary on my first brew, or would it be worth it from a clarity standpoint?
Click to expand...

Lots of people here (including me) don't bother with a secondary. More chance of infection and it doesn't seem to make much difference in the finished product. I'd just leave it in the primary for 3-4 weeks, bottle, put it in the closet for another 3-4 weeks and enjoy!
 
Benjibbad said:
TAKE A HYDROMETER READING BEFORE YOU PITCH THE YEAST!!!!! Record this in yuor notes.
Click to expand...

Why is this so important to take the reading before you add the yeast? I just brewed my first batch this weekend and took the reading after the yeast was added.
 
Benjibbad said:
I would say outdoors just because it will save you some hastle of the clean up. Full boils are nice but there is nothing wrong with doing a partial it will also help you cool the wort quicker if you do this. What I used to do is boil ~2 gallons of water and then put it in some large tupperware and freeze it. Put this in the bottom of your primary and pour the hot wrot on top. Then top up to the 5 gal mark. Cools quickly and decreases the chances of infection. If you use a water/ice bath it can take hours to cool to pitching temps. Once you are below 120 you run the risk of infection.

As far as instruction throw them out. To steep the grains put them in the water and bring to 150 and turn off heat. Let them sit for 20-30 mins remove drain (don't squeeze and discard) bring grain tea to boil and REMOVE from heat. Add LME/DME being sure to completely disolve the extract. Bring back up to boil add bittering hops start 60 min timer. With 5 mins left add the aroma/flavor hops. Remove from heat after time.

Cool the wort either by ice bath or ice top up what ever it takes just besure anything that touched the wort is sanitized. Once cooled AIRATE (before pitching the yeast). You can shake, whisk, splash or use a aquiarium pump set-up ~30 dollars to do this.

TAKE A HYDROMETER READING BEFORE YOU PITCH THE YEAST!!!!! Record this in yuor notes.

Pitch yeast seal container and add airlock. You can fill the airlock with sanitizer or vodka or just clean water.

Fermentation can take up to 72 hours to start. Leave it alone for at least 2 weeks before you take another hydrometer sample and possibly transfer to secondary (not needed). Then give it another 2 weeks to clear and clean up any off flavors. Take another hydro sample, wait. Take another one 2-3 days later if they are the same then bottle.
Click to expand...

Completely agree on all of this...however I did full boils right from the get go AND made an Immersion Chiller to cool it. Making an IC is so easy a caveman can do it.
 
Jkane101 said:
Completely agree on all of this...however I did full boils right from the get go AND made an Immersion Chiller to cool it. Making an IC is so easy a caveman can do it.
Click to expand...

Easy and cheap are two different things....:(
With the money I've spent on the equipment thus far. I have to NEED it, to buy it now. I'll make/buy one in the near future, but can't afford to do it now.
 
This may sound stupid, but what are you doing with the jugs of water? Is this just what you are adding to the wort to bring it up to 5 gallons?

I am considering buying a Shirron plate cooler instead of dropping a little less money into an immersion cooler. But, I'm probably getting ahead of myself. :p
 
My brew pot holds 5 gallons. I usually do a partial boil of about 3 gallons. When the wort is ready to be chilled, I add 1 gallon of cold, refrigerated water to the 3 gallons of hot wort to help get me closer to a safe pitching temperature. Once it is cold enough to pitch I add the rest of the water that is at room temperature to bring me to 5 gallons and pitch my yeast.
 

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