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krkelly

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Just to see what's involved in brewing beer, I did a 10-gallon batch (Heineken clone) on-premises at my LHBS. It was interesting on brew day: they used a malt extract and added the hops in pellet form. Two weeks later, it's done, or so they say. It's the right color, it's clear, it's well-carbed, but it doesn't taste very good. It's bitter and seriously lacks ... something important. Subtlety. Flavor. There's just the bitterness with nothing underneath it, if that describes it well enough. It's beer, but I take little pleasure in drinking it. I also suspect that there are impurities -- can't these give you hangovers? I can drink a lot of good beer in a session, but I have a hunch that I can't drink a lot of this beer.

My understanding is that lager requires conditioning, and two weeks from brew day will not be enough time. It's also my understanding that you need the yeast to do the conditioning, but these guys filtered into the keg after fermentation. Now, they say, it will only keep 6-12 weeks depending on how cold I keep it.

I can see how their method suits their bottom line. They can turn around a batch of beer in two weeks, and some types of beer might not suffer from this kind of treatment. The beer I got looks good, it's beer, and it's a lot cheaper than paying the Canadian tax at the beer store. It might even improve a bit in the bottle, even though it was filtered? But I like beer that tastes good.

Here's what bothers me, though. They sell cornies (actually they're pretty well-stocked with beer-making stuff -- sometimes they have sankes in stock as well) but the guy told me that you have to filter into the cornies to avoid messing up the lines, which goes against everything I've read. I want to make nice lagers by lagering them in the cornies.

This was not that great an experience. I won't be making any more beer with these guys, but I'll buy my supplies there, I guess. It shouldn't be too hard to do better on my own, starting with simple beers using malt extracts, right?
 
They fermented and carbed a lager in 2 weeks?! That sounds like they ripped u off. How much did that experience cost?
 
That cost around $100 CAD before the bottles I bought. But remember that beer is expensive in Canada, it was actually a savings.
 
I made 1 extract before jumping in to all grain. Its a little pricey to get started but I can make a 10 gal batch for $40-$60. Its worth it.
 
Unless you have a lot of disposable income, I think you should start modestly. Go to Austin Homebrew Supply and buy the deluxe beer making kit, it is $82.99 USD. Go ahead and order an extract version of a beer style you like, I suggest an ale, as lagers take a little bit longer and can be tricky without some form of temperature control.

The good thing about the kit is that it is enough equipment to experiment with the hobby, and if you find you like it you will be able to use most of it if you decide to buy more equipment. And if you end up not liking the hobby you are not out too much money.

Like any other hobby if you really want to get into it you'll find that you are able to dump a lot of money into it. If you are wanting to be able to handcraft your beer to be exactly what you want to drink, and willing to put in the effort of trail and error to get there, then this hobby can be extremely rewarding. Be careful approaching the hobby from the standpoint of saving money, if you get immersed you may find yourself with a garage full of brew equipment, and I can tell you it cost a bit more than going out and buying a 6 pack every other weekend!
 
That cost around $100 CAD before the bottles I bought. But remember that beer is expensive in Canada, it was actually a savings.


Only if it is good.

If you all grain brew, which isnt hard, you can brew 10 gallons of something for like $25(Blonde)-$40(IPA)

2 weeks, a beer shouldnt even be out of the primary fermentor yet.
 
Just to see what's involved in brewing beer, I did a 10-gallon batch (Heineken clone) on-premises at my LHBS. It was interesting on brew day: they used a malt extract and added the hops in pellet form. Two weeks later, it's done, or so they say. It's the right color, it's clear, it's well-carbed, but it doesn't taste very good. It's bitter and seriously lacks ... something important. Subtlety. Flavor. There's just the bitterness with nothing underneath it, if that describes it well enough. It's beer, but I take little pleasure in drinking it. I also suspect that there are impurities -- can't these give you hangovers? I can drink a lot of good beer in a session, but I have a hunch that I can't drink a lot of this beer.

My understanding is that lager requires conditioning, and two weeks from brew day will not be enough time. It's also my understanding that you need the yeast to do the conditioning, but these guys filtered into the keg after fermentation. Now, they say, it will only keep 6-12 weeks depending on how cold I keep it.

I can see how their method suits their bottom line. They can turn around a batch of beer in two weeks, and some types of beer might not suffer from this kind of treatment. The beer I got looks good, it's beer, and it's a lot cheaper than paying the Canadian tax at the beer store. It might even improve a bit in the bottle, even though it was filtered? But I like beer that tastes good.

Here's what bothers me, though. They sell cornies (actually they're pretty well-stocked with beer-making stuff -- sometimes they have sankes in stock as well) but the guy told me that you have to filter into the cornies to avoid messing up the lines, which goes against everything I've read. I want to make nice lagers by lagering them in the cornies.

This was not that great an experience. I won't be making any more beer with these guys, but I'll buy my supplies there, I guess. It shouldn't be too hard to do better on my own, starting with simple beers using malt extracts, right?

These dudes are in the wrong business... both statements are untrue.
 
Unless you have a lot of disposable income, I think you should start modestly.
I won't be starting bare-bones, but I don't plan anything too fancy for my starting gear. A couple BB carboys instead of pails, maybe. I found a list of 10 easy-to-brew beers and decided to try an APA first.

patrck17 said:
Be careful approaching the hobby from the standpoint of saving money, if you get immersed you may find yourself with a garage full of brew equipment, and I can tell you it cost a bit more than going out and buying a 6 pack every other weekend!
Well, I want to save money on good beer, but I also want to master the art of making good beer. I'm pretty sure that I'll have fun with it, and in the end ... I'll have beer :)
 
These dudes are in the wrong business... both statements are untrue.
So do homebrewers ever filter their beer? I was thinking that the ubrew spoiled my beer not only by rushing it but by filtering it. Could it still improve in the bottle even if it was filtered?
 
Just to see what's involved in brewing beer, I did a 10-gallon batch (Heineken clone) on-premises at my LHBS. It was interesting on brew day: they used a malt extract and added the hops in pellet form. Two weeks later, it's done, or so they say. It's the right color, it's clear, it's well-carbed, but it doesn't taste very good. It's bitter and seriously lacks ... something important. Subtlety. Flavor. There's just the bitterness with nothing underneath it, if that describes it well enough. It's beer, but I take little pleasure in drinking it. I also suspect that there are impurities -- can't these give you hangovers? I can drink a lot of good beer in a session, but I have a hunch that I can't drink a lot of this beer.

Do you like Heineken? I absolutely hate it, and to me the statement in bold perfectly describes it. Well, it would if you added skunky.
 
So do homebrewers ever filter their beer? I was thinking that the ubrew spoiled my beer not only by rushing it but by filtering it. Could it still improve in the bottle even if it was filtered?

Well, it is preferrable to leave the beer on the yeast for a bit, so they can clean up after themselves. Moving the beer off the yeast, and filtering it... well, will affect this.

I dont know a brewer that DOES filter thier beer.
 
So do homebrewers ever filter their beer? I was thinking that the ubrew spoiled my beer not only by rushing it but by filtering it. Could it still improve in the bottle even if it was filtered?


I think rushing it was the problem. Typically you need 7+ days for fermentation to complete, then a secondary if you choose. Most here seem to think a 21 day in primary is best without a secondary.


I would suggest trying it all on your own and use that as a gauge from there. use that "ubrew" as a learning experience. read as much as you can and check this site often.

try a second LHBS if possible. my first one was a joke. found 2 more that are further but worth the drive!
 
I would suggest trying it all on your own and use that as a gauge from there. use that "ubrew" as a learning experience. read as much as you can and check this site often.
That's exactly my plan.

The Pol said:
I dont know a brewer that DOES filter thier beer.
Thanks. That's what I thought :)

WIP said:
Do you like Heineken? I absolutely hate it
I do like Heineken, though it's far from my favorite beer. The bitterness and lack of finish to the ubrew clone was nothing like the real Heineken.
 
I do like Heineken, though it's far from my favorite beer. The bitterness and lack of finish to the ubrew clone was nothing like the real Heineken.

Ok, that is different then. I think your best bet is to just buy materials from them and brew it yourself. There are plenty of clone recipes out there for almost every beer.
 
Alot of those "lager" kits just use some kind of ale yeast, or dried lager yeast. It may have been one of them. Dried lager yeast is ok, but neither are the same.
I totally agree you'll have more fun, save money and be happier making your own. And start with ales for a good while. Don't worry it really does get alot better than your experience.
Good luck and cheers!
 
I should have asked this question in the original post, but what do I do now? I have the beer in the laundry room, which is cooler at this time of year. Would it be better to age it a bit in the warmer part of the house? Is there enough yeast left to accomplish any conditioning? I'd think that since it hasn't been pasteurized, there's some yeast left in there, but I'm a bit lost here.

Thanks for all the advice so far -- I know what to do next time, but now I have all these gallons of beer to deal with. If there's some way to make this beer taste better, even in a couple weeks, then I'd like to know what to do :)
 
At this point you can age it cold or warm. The filter took all of the yeast out, and the only thing the yeast would do at this point would be to carbonate anyway.

It still might be a little "green" and time might help that, the bitterness should fade with time also.

So to sum it up, warm or cold, wont change much.
 
Hello krkelly over there in the far east.
$100 for 10 gallons of ubrew is reasonable, the ubrew I was going to was $120.00. The beer regardless of recipe tasted the same. Yup 2 weeks was exactly the figure. I would ask them questions about the procedure and they would answer "i don't know I just follow the directions". This is what launched me into homebrewing. Buy an equipment starter kit, they're about $60. Start with a good "ready to use wort kit" like the "Brewhouse" kits. Its as simple as pick your flavour, add water to the wort and pitch your yeast. This will teach you fermentation, temperature, gravity readings, patience and bottling. The beers turn out quite good and they're about $40 and yield a 5g batch. After you've done 5 or 6 of these you'll be ready to try an extract or maybe even jump both feet into an all grain. Have fun with it.
 
Start with a good "ready to use wort kit" like the "Brewhouse" kits. Its as simple as pick your flavour, add water to the wort and pitch your yeast. This will teach you fermentation, temperature, gravity readings, patience and bottling. The beers turn out quite good and they're about $40 and yield a 5g batch. After you've done 5 or 6 of these you'll be ready to try an extract or maybe even jump both feet into an all grain. Have fun with it.
I ran across the Brew House website a little while back, and their kits do look pretty good. I'm tempted to start with some 2.5-gal extract batches, though, since I'm dying to try out some of the recipes here :)
 
I feel you!

I just got back from watching a LHBS do a demonstration of brewing. They made it so easy for the new guy to understand, but too many cut corners. First thing I noticed, grain bag dropped (at boiling temp, should be around 155 Celsius) bittering hops added immediately (he hasn't even achieved wort yet). Wrong on two counts to start with. Then he stated that pouring ice into hot wort to cool it was OK.... Strike three! (let us throw unsantized water in the form of ice). Later the class was instructed to sprinkle the priming sugar on beer and swirl easily. WRONG again! He did state how important to sanitize, but introducing anything into your beer without boiling first, or have it sanitized in some way is asking for infection.

That LHBS was making it look too easy. It's not hard to brew but doing it like that is only good if you want low grade brew. Better drink it before it shows an infection. Get ready to throw a batch out every now and then, from said cut corners.

You sound like you are on the right track now.:mug:

I would recommend five gallon batch equipment. You can always do a 2.5 in them and you would have the capability to do five (which is what most everyone does).
 
I would recommend five gallon batch equipment. You can always do a 2.5 in them and you would have the capability to do five (which is what most everyone does).
That's actually what I'm debating right now. Can I leave 2.5-gal of wort in a 6-gal carboy for 21 days? Once the fermentation stops, won't the large surface area on top invite oxidization?

I'm going on Tuesday to buy the gear, so I have until then to figure it out. I don't mind buying a couple 3-gal BB carboys, though. I can use them for experiments or mead later on.
 
That's actually what I'm debating right now. Can I leave 2.5-gal of wort in a 6-gal carboy for 21 days? Once the fermentation stops, won't the large surface area on top invite oxidization?

I think that during the initial fermentation stage enough CO2 is created to fill the airspace and purge most if not all of the O2 from the carboy. It only becomes a problem if you rack to another carboy if you like doing additional fermentation as the activity will not be as vigorous and probably not enough CO2 will be created.
 
That's actually what I'm debating right now. Can I leave 2.5-gal of wort in a 6-gal carboy for 21 days? Once the fermentation stops, won't the large surface area on top invite oxidization?

I'm going on Tuesday to buy the gear, so I have until then to figure it out. I don't mind buying a couple 3-gal BB carboys, though. I can use them for experiments or mead later on.

On a five gallon batch, I have all 5 gallons, in a glass 6 gallon carboy. As long as you get fermentation started there will only be CO2 in the fermenter. Primaries always need lots of room for the krausen to rise up (like a head on a beer poured into a glass). Do yourself a favor and make a blow off tube for primary.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/overactive-fermentation-142807/

4th post down "Revvy" smart, learned brewer.
 
Hmm, now I've been reading this, and if I can brew on my electric stove, then I'll go with 5-gal batches from the start. The appealing thing about 2.5-gal was mostly that I could do it on my stove. I'm willing to get a restaurant-quality stockpot from here ... I'd just have to decide on which one and which size. Aluminum 32-qt?

I know that full-boil isn't strictly necessary for extract brewing, but it would make it easier to go to all-grain in the future if I set up for it now.

Isn't there also a heat stick option to get an electric element inside the brewpot?

Ah, decisions, decisions. I think the easy part will be actually brewing the beer when I finally get around to it :)
 
Yea those guys really don't know what they are doing.. Honestly I leave all my beers on the yeast cake in the primary for 3 weeks minimum. It may appear that your beer is done fermenting after only one week...BUT IT IS NOT! Most beers of normal gravity are done fermenting almost certainly be week 2 (even though it may have showed no physical signs of fermentation) and even then letting your beer sit on the yeast cake for weeks 2 and definitely week three will help it clear up, and clean up resulting in a better tasting beer.

Basically it should be at least 3 weeks in the primary, and then 3 weeks in the bottle minimum and this is for fairly basic low alcohol/gravity beers. Once you start making stronger beers its really suggested that you leave it primary 3-4 weeks and then bottle condition much longer than 3 weeks.

I can't think of drinking any beer within 2 weeks of making it...yucky.
 
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-stovetop-all-grain-brewing-pics-90132/

Check this out. Death Brewer has a good grip on brewing as well. This is an old 2008 thread. Read the original post. It is the easiest way to brew, and have all the precautions not to have your beer infected.

Note: Last original post says "bottled water" introduced to bring it up to 5 gallon. Bottled water should be clear of infectious contagions.
 
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