kegerator inner door panel?

Hi folks, what material are you guys using to replace the inner door panel on full size fridge conversions? Not sure I want to use wood, but shower wall panels seem kinda flimsy...

Thanks for your input!

those panels are a bit flimsy, but when pressed agains the foam insulation already in the door, they should be solid enough. Wood is definitely not suggested.

How would I go about tightening thanks? I think I read somewhere something about PVC pipe through the door so as to not crush the panel. Does this sound right?

Oops, meant shanks, not thanks. Lol

I posted on a previous thread that the kegerator I bought had a piece of PVC pipe used as a spacer. Since then, I installed two additional faucets and made the following observations:

In order to use 3/4" pvc pipe, you need a 1-1/8 hole in the door. You also need the PVC pipe to be cut at exactly the right length, otherwise the shank/faucet will always be loose or it wont function as designed.

I ended up sticking with a 1" hole in the fridge and snugging up the nut on the shank just enough that it wont deform the door and not move when pulling a pint. If I were to grab my faucets and twist, they would move, but why would I do that.

I should also mention that I didnt re-engineer the inside of the refrigerator door. Right now, my faucets run through the portion where eggs would be stored, and I have enough room to run a couple more through the butter tray if I desire (I do!). I also spaced my faucets pretty close together in order to maximize the amount of available space for more faucets.

I wouldn't worry about using wood. I used a scrap piece of 1/4 inch paneling when I put in my faucets a few years back. I have no issues with it.

My first kegerator smelled like green peppers. I found a discarded lime green fridge next to a garbage can. Took it home and plugged it in, it got cold but stunk to high heaven like green peppers. Found the culprit pepper moldy and jamed under the bottom drawer. Cleaned it with every known cleaner I knew of, still stunk. That's not what's important here.

The plastic on the door was old and cracked and useless. I removed it and the green pepper stink soaked insulation behind the door plastic.. discarded both. Ended up using some fiber glass insulation, and a piece of pressed 1/8" hardboard. I painted both sides of the hardboard to seal it and used PVC around the shank to prevent the wood from bowing. Worked fine. The stink smell was gone, the shanks were mounted securely and never had a problem
with it.


Edit: Sorry I'm just feeding my ego now. Here is a picture (quality not great) of the kegerator before I put the second tap on it. a little paint and nice big HD sticker on it.. she was nice but alas had to sell for some cash.)

This stuff is great and resists mold. It's used for bathroom/shower walls.

thanks for all the info everyone! ok, i guess i'll be looking into the shower wall stuff.

I've also seen people use galvanized sheet metal.

Both Lowe's and Home Despot sell FRP board wouldn't use anything else.