Control Panel Help

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friedpicklechips

friedpicklechips

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So, I've finally come up with a final (hopefully final) plan for my control panel. I based a lot of it on Kal's design, but I took some components out hoping to make things a bit simpler. I'm no electrician, though, and I need some help with the internal components and mayber a wiring diagram. I would like to run everything but the March pumps on 240V. The pumps that I have will only run on 110V. Any help would be appreciated.

11t0tqo.jpg
[/IMG]

3 x PID
1 x Timer
1 x Buzzer
3 x Push Button Switches
2 x Indicator Lights
1 x 3 Way Switch
4 x 3DPT Switches (Homedepot)
 
Have you considered using the SWA-2451 PIDs from Auber? They have an time built into them. Timers can be configured as count down so when the wort temp reaches your set point the timer starts. When the timer completes it cuts the heat and sounds the alarm.

Just a thought, then you could save some $ for the separate timer. These cost about $12 more than the SYL-2451's.
 
stlbeer said:
Have you considered using the SWA-2451 PIDs from Auber? They have an time built into them. Timers can be configured as count down so when the wort temp reaches your set point the timer starts. When the timer completes it cuts the heat and sounds the alarm.

Just a thought, then you could save some $ for the separate timer. These cost about $12 more than the SYL-2451's.
Click to expand...

I'll look into them. Thanks.
 
friedpicklechips said:
So, I've finally come up with a final (hopefully final) plan for my control panel. I based a lot of it on Kal's design, but I took some components out hoping to make things a bit simpler. I'm no electrician, though, and I need some help with the internal components and mayber a wiring diagram. I would like to run everything but the March pumps on 240V. The pumps that I have will only run on 110V. Any help would be appreciated.

11t0tqo.jpg
[/IMG]

3 x PID
1 x Timer
1 x Buzzer
3 x Push Button Switches
2 x Indicator Lights
1 x 3 Way Switch
4 x 3DPT Switches (Homedepot)
Click to expand...

i like it!!

this is pretty much what i would like to build except with the built in timers. does anyone have a wiring diagram for something like this?
 
I have a question. I see 3 PIDs, but only two elements. Is your plan to use heat on all 3 vessels, or only two?
 
TrainSafe said:
I have a question. I see 3 PIDs, but only two elements. Is your plan to use heat on all 3 vessels, or only two?
Click to expand...

There are three PIDs, but only two run heating elements. The third will monitor the mash temp while the wort re-circulates.
 
friedpicklechips said:
I based a lot of it on Kal's design, but I took some components out hoping to make things a bit simpler. I'm no electrician, though, and I need some help with the internal components and mayber a wiring diagram.
Click to expand...
Your setup is extremely similar to mine. Very very close. From what I can tell the changes are:

- Combined the pump switches and lights into one.
- Combined the keyed power switch and light into one.
- Combined the alarm & light into one.
- Removed the timer reset button (you'll use the one on the timer).
- Removed the volt/amp meters.

These are extremely minor changes. mostly combining separate switches and lights into one unit. You should be able to use my wiring intructions anyway. No need for a new wiring diagram. Just use what I drew up and go from there with some subtle changes.

You still need a large enclosure and all the stuff inside would be the same minus the power supplies for the meters.

If you're not comfortable with the minor wiring changes then maybe consider just going with my design exactly. The money you're saving by combining some of these things is about $50 on a list of parts probably well over $1200-1400. There are less parts with yours but if you don't know how to wire it, that isn't really making things simpler for you is it? (I only state this because you said you removed parts to make things a bit simpler for you).

I would like to run everything but the March pumps on 240V.
Click to expand...
You can do that, but why? It will only make my existing instructions harder to follow.

Kal
 
kal said:
Your setup is extremely similar to mine. Very very close. From what I can tell the changes are:

- Combined the pump switches and lights into one.
- Combined the keyed power switch and light into one.
- Combined the alarm & light into one.
- Removed the timer reset button (you'll use the one on the timer).
- Removed the volt/amp meters.

These are extremely minor changes. mostly combining separate switches and lights into one unit. You should be able to use my wiring intructions anyway. No need for a new wiring diagram. Just use what I drew up and go from there with some subtle changes.

You still need a large enclosure and all the stuff inside would be the same minus the power supplies for the meters.

If you're not comfortable with the minor wiring changes then maybe consider just going with my design exactly. The money you're saving by combining some of these things is about $50 on a list of parts probably well over $1200-1400. There are less parts with yours but if you don't know how to wire it, that isn't really making things simpler for you is it? (I only state this because you said you removed parts to make things a bit simpler for you).


You can do that, but why? It will only make my existing instructions harder to follow.

Kal
Click to expand...

Any reason why you didnt get the PIDS with the timers built in?
 
bagpiperjosh said:
Any reason why you didnt get the PIDS with the timers built in?
Click to expand...
I don't feel they'd be as easy to use for my brewing process.

Look at your own brewing process. Think of how you'll be pushing buttons and doing things throughout the process. See which is more convenient for you.

Kal
 
kal said:
I don't feel they'd be as easy to use for my brewing process.

Look at your own brewing process. Think of how you'll be pushing buttons and doing things throughout the process. See which is more convenient for you.

Kal
Click to expand...

fair enough
 
Well, I bought two march pumps orignially planning on using propane to heat the HLT and Keggle. So, they run on 110v. Since I've changed plans, I plan on running 240v into the garage to brew.
 
friedpicklechips said:
Well, I bought two march pumps orignially planning on using propane to heat the HLT and Keggle. So, they run on 110v. Since I've changed plans, I plan on running 240v into the garage to brew.
Click to expand...
You need 240v to your panel of course, but you will use a common, and a 120v leg to run all your components. Its just easier this way. Take another look at Kal's drawings, its all there.
 
zeus53219 said:
You need 240v to your panel of course, but you will use a common, and a 120v leg to run all your components. Its just easier this way. Take another look at Kal's drawings, its all there.
Click to expand...

I did. That just goes to show how electrically inefficient I am.
 
I thought that maybe you had already bought buzzers, lights, and other things that were 240V.

Since that's not the case, just follow my plans if you want to keep it the simplest possible. Just about everything runs at 120V. The exceptions are the elements and the element lights.

As zeus53219 mentioned, in North America 240V lines often have a center tapped neutral which allows you to also get 120V. My instructions go into this too. Give it another read through. And then maybe another just to be sure. ;)

Kal
 
Thanks mate. The more and more I think about it, I may just go step by step with your site. Thanks for the inspiration.
 
friedpicklechips said:
Thanks mate. The more and more I think about it, I may just go step by step with your site. Thanks for the inspiration.
Click to expand...
If you don't have the electrical experience to modify it as you mentioned, that would certainly be the easiest. The parts you were leaving out weren't major so you wouldn't be saving much. In the end, up to you. Leaving out the meters would be very simple to do if that's one way you want to go.

Good luck with the build!

Kal
 

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