plop plop

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

akd200

Member
Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
alaska
Using the plop plop of the air lock as a reference, how slow should the blub in the lock be to put into the secondary. They have been in primary for weeks. I understand using a hydrometer and gauging it to see no change, but will you still have very intermittent lock action at this point?
 
Paging: Revvy

Actually, I'll give you the short version of what Revvy will say.

Air lock activity is a sign of co2 release, which is not caused solely by fermentation. Temperature and vibration can cause co2 release from the yeast bed. If your hydro readings are stable then fermentation has ceased and you can transfer. However, there is also a debate on whether secondary is needed, or just longer primary.
 
Using the plop plop of the air lock as a reference, how slow should the blub in the lock be to put into the secondary. They have been in primary for weeks. I understand using a hydrometer and gauging it to see no change, but will you still have very intermittent lock action at this point?

Are you talking about every 90 seconds or so? It isn't a good way to measure fermentation but any more consistent than that and you should probably just let it sit.
 
Using the plop plop of the air lock as a reference, how slow should the blub in the lock be to put into the secondary. They have been in primary for weeks. I understand using a hydrometer and gauging it to see no change, but will you still have very intermittent lock action at this point?

I'm glad you asked this. I'm running into the same issue on my first batch. I can't get the air lock to stay "deflated". If I depressurize it, the cap rises up again soon after. But, I've also done one hydro reading. I'll do another tonight, and if it's the same, move it over so I can have my bottling bucket back!

-A
 
I'm glad you asked this. I'm running into the same issue on my first batch. I can't get the air lock to stay "deflated". If I depressurize it, the cap rises up again soon after. But, I've also done one hydro reading. I'll do another tonight, and if it's the same, move it over so I can have my bottling bucket back!

-A

So long as the tests are at least 3 days apart, go for it (oh, and the reading should be the same :)
 
So long as the tests are at least 3 days apart, go for it (oh, and the reading should be the same :)

Yup! Got that much. :D

Stupid unexpected cold temps have dropped my basement temp from the happy 68 degrees that it was, down to 63/64. Don't know if that slowed down my yeast. But the brew had a solid 10 days of the warmer temps before that happened, so I'm not overly worried.

Seeing as how the basement is evidently more effected by outside temps than I thought, are those carboy heating straps I see at some sites worthwhile? I'm thinking to next winter.

-A
 
DON'T PAY ATTENTION TO THE AIRLOCK! it means nothing in regards to your actual fermentation!! it's taken a long time to learn and great effort to put out of my mind all the reading i've done re: autolysis to wait three weeks for primary and then mess with it. if it's under 1.060 you don't need a secondary and the full three weeks will allow the yeast to clean itself up (eg: eat its own poop). if it's a BIG beer >1.060 then rack to the secondary or barrel after the 3 week period. you'll be happy in the long run:D
 
Back
Top