lamarguy
Well-Known Member
If I'm looking for more fermentables out of my malt, I mash on the low side, between 146-148.
Just so you know, maximum fermentability is achieved at 149F.
If I'm looking for more fermentables out of my malt, I mash on the low side, between 146-148.
Well, I kind of agree with him there, although the rest was pretty bad advice
I completely agree with you as far as using molasses goes, but I think the LHBS owner did give good info. He just gave the wrong info.
If I'm looking for more fermentables out of my malt, I mash on the low side, between 146-148. If I'm looking for maltiness and less fermentables, I mash in the mid-high 150's. Now...that being said...his statement was correct, he just didn't figure in that molasses doesn't need help in conversion as grains go.
Just so you know, maximum fermentability is achieved at 149F.
I've never heard this stated anywhere...where did you get this information from?
Not trying to argue with you, I'm just curious.
Based on the charts I have seen, I thought Beta Amylase maxed out at about 145*F. That would give you a THIN brew, though.
I tend to shoot for the "magic number" of 152*F, depending on the type.
I'm confused by:
Highest percentage fermentability - 145.4F
Why is that different from "Highest yield of fermentable extract"?
How can you have a higher percentage fermentability and not actually yield as much?
...................I swear I have heard him give deliberately erroneous advice to move something off the shelves that isn't selling well.
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.... I've learned that a lot of advice you have to take with a grain of salt, and you can only determine what is true and what is myth from experience.
The mistake I made early in my brewing career was to ask the LHBS if all-grain beers are really that much better than extract. Of course they told me that it wouldn't be so, that you can make as good of beers with extract as you can with all-grain. Which I'm sure you can, but of course there is some bias to their response. They make a lot more money on the extract than the grains. I know a fellow homebrewer that goes to the same shop, still does extract but kegs his beer, and I asked him why he hasn't gone all-grain yet, and he said it was too messy and too much time and a lot of equipment. Whether that is from his experience, or from what the homebrew store has convinced him to think is yet to be determined. I've learned that a lot of advice you have to take with a grain of salt, and you can only determine what is true and what is myth from experience.
I've been lucky enough to never receive bad advice from LHBS. Great guys over there with good knowledge. If they dont know it, they will walk next door and talk to the guys at the brewery that is attached.
The brewery attached just won Small Brewery of the Year at GABF. Big props to Dry Dock
I know who you are talking about. Their chicago location is much better for the brew info.
Not if you are talking about Brew and Grow..
those guys are arrogant pot heads that know absolutely nothing about brewing. They are complete jerks and offer terrible service. I have gotten terrible advice.. and they have flat out refused to help me with recipes, etc.
Bev Art on 95th and Western is great though.. those guys really know what they are talking about and are very helpful
When I was shopping for the SWMBO's wed ring, I received this advice from the guy I eventually bought from. It's the best test to see if (1) Someone knows what they're talking about and (2) if they're trying to screw you.
Yeah, I've since tried several homebrewed and commercial smoked porters, and have yet to try one that I could finish. In retrospect, I am almost certain that this was an old kit that they probably were more than happy to unload on the unsuspecting kid I was at the time.
This is actually excellent advice for certain styles of beer.Just pour the yeast (whitelabs vial) into the fermenter and you're good to go!
This is actually excellent advice for certain styles of beer.
My understanding is that a variety of styles (saisons, certain wheat beers) that have estery or phenolic flavors and aromas benefit from underpitching yeast.
My first visit to my old LHBS was simply fantastic. Starting shooting the breeze about brewing, and that I was thinking about starting. Asked what would be best to start with Ale Pales, Better Bottles, or Carboys. His suggestion? Start with the cheapest equipment that will work - and invest in a good set of ingredients. If you don't like homebrewing, you won't have invested a lot of cash, if you're on the fence - a good set of ingredients might push you over, and you can always upgrade to better equipment later. He didn't have the boxed "kit" available, so he grabbed all the equipment that was in the kit, and threw in a copy of "How to Brew".
When I went back to figure out how to start kegging, he talked me through how to build a jockey box, how much beer line to get (8 feet), and even helped me figure out what temp to carb at if it wasn't going to be in a kegerator yet...
Since we moved, I've stopped by the LHBS here and I haven't been impressed. I now view Brewmasters Warehouse and Williams Brewing as my LHBS.
Exactly... It wasn't until my 3rd or 4th visit that I realized he was a classmate from high school! I only wish the one closest to me in VA Beach was better. When the owners are there - no problems, when they're not...Sounds like you experience was like mine, finding a "winner" lhbs right off the bat.
Not if you are talking about Brew and Grow..
those guys are arrogant pot heads that know absolutely nothing about brewing. They are complete jerks and offer terrible service. I have gotten terrible advice.. and they have flat out refused to help me with recipes, etc.
Bev Art on 95th and Western is great though.. those guys really know what they are talking about and are very helpful
Tomatoes...right.
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