First brew in bottles....

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zombiejellyfish

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So my first ever homebrew is quietly aging in a cabinet, and I'm standing strong and not opening a single one for at least 2 weeks. I ended up with about 2 cases.

It was:

Northern Brewers Honey Kolsch
SG: 1.052
Final Gravity (FG?): 1.011

So, if the formula I saw was right, I hit about 7% ABV?

Next up I have Northern Brewers Nut Brown going in (working with steeping grains and multiple hop additions now!)

For steeping the grains, do I boil the water, then cut the heat and steep for however long in the hot water?

And, because I can't help myself, and apparently you're not a true member of this board if you haven't, a 1-gallon batch of Edwort's Apfelwein, so I picked up some montrachet and extra dextrose as well.
 
I gotcha at 5.4%

Here's the formula I use: (OG-FG)*1.3125

With steeping grains, you want to use 1-2 quarts of water per pound of grain. Get the temperature to about 160 F, then let the grains sit in there for about a half-hour. This will add color and flavour. You then remove the grains and pour the water in your main brew pot, add water to whatever level you'd like, and start your boil.

:mug:
 
DeathBrewer said:
I gotcha at 5.4%

Here's the formula I use: (OG-FG)*1.3125

:mug:

Um... that formula is great cause it means my ABWs are higher than I thought.

I use this formula:

76.08*(OG-FG)
(1.775-OG)

Almost 2% difference using my mead calc (OG 1.108 FG 1.003)

You're positive your formula is correct? Cause if it is, I need to fix my brew log (and labels)!
 
I think I just answered my own question... well sort of...

Your calculation is for ABV

Mine is for ABW and that's were the 2% diff came in

(Change in Gravity)*1.05= ABW

(Change in Gravity)*1.31 = ABV

Sorry for going off topic a bit... I'll butt out now...
 
I just made my second batch (an experimental oatmeal stout) and I just turned the boil off and threw the grains right in. They steeped in some hot-ass water. What are the consequences of this?
 
Benny Blanco said:
I just made my second batch (an experimental oatmeal stout) and I just turned the boil off and threw the grains right in. They steeped in some hot-ass water. What are the consequences of this?

Ok, I just read up on this and temps are important if you want to get the best qualities from the grain. Steep AT 155 F for 15-30 mins... get a thermometer if you don't already have one, I consider it essential for brewing. This will also help you prevent boil-overs by knowing when your wort is about to boil. (mines always right around 200 F)

If you boil the grains (~200F), or anywhere over 155 F you will extract more tannins making your brew more astringent and somewhat drier tasting and darker colored. That's why you should use a steeping bag so you can remove the grains before cranking up the heat. Doesn't hurt to experiment though as long as you don't mind wasting a batch because of a bad decision. Most likely you'd just end up with a not-so-great brew that is still drinkable unless you really screw up or infect it.
 
Benny Blanco said:
Thanks for the reply...even though it wasn't good news. Guess I'll just hope for the best.

Are you trying to do an All Grain batch? Or are you using an extract for your base sugars?

If you're using extract, you probably don't have much to worry about other than off flavors that will probably improve by aging longer.

If you're trying an All Grain... you need to research this more, temps are crucial and equipment goes beyond the simple brew kettle...

I'm still learning just like you... first thing to learn is that there are certain techniques and tools that are priceless and should be incorporated into all of your brewing.

Get a thermometer, no guessing! (a nice long one that can stay clipped on the side of your kettle through the entire steeping and boiling process)

Follow temp guidelines, they exist for a reason...

Have fun!! I know I am!
 
CJ,

I'm still trying to learn all the mashy terms and such. This is what went into it before I tweaked it.

1 can hopped dark malt extract
2 lbs dark dried malt extract
6 oz crystal grain
4 oz roast barley grain
2 oz hop guinea pig pellets
 
Benny Blanco said:
CJ,

I'm still trying to learn all the mashy terms and such. This is what went into it before I tweaked it.

1 can hopped dark malt extract
2 lbs dark dried malt extract
6 oz crystal grain
4 oz roast barley grain
2 oz hop guinea pig pellets

Well this is an extract recipe... meaning your grains are mostly for flavor. Did you have a brew schedule for this?

Usually it would be something like this...

Steep grains @155 F for 15-30 mins in a grain bag then remove
Add extracts and mix well to dissolve completely before turning up the heat.
Bring wort to full boil and hold boil for 60 minutes (watch out for boil-overs!)
Hops are usually added at different times during the boil depending on whether they are bittering hops (high beta acids - added early in boil) or aromatic hops (high alpha acids - added later in boil or as late as in the secondary fermenter or "dry hopping")

After the 60 minute boil, you need to cool the wort as quickly as possible to about 80 F. A wort chiller makes this very easy to do...

If this is all new to you, you really need to find some good reading material for the beginning homebrewer. Also, if you order supplies from MidWestSupply.com they offer a free DVD that shows many different brewing techniques step-by-step (option for free DVD given at checkout).

Make sure you have a good understanding of how things need to be done before you tackle another brew. You will probably find you need more equipment. My brew equipment started with $200 for two brew kits (Wine & beer), but I quickly found myself racking up a total of around $1000 for where I am now. My capacity is around 5 or 6 batches working at a time so you don't need to go that big, but I'm guessing you might be short on some of the handier tools like a wine thief and an auto siphon as well as a good thermometer.

If you have any questions about basic equipment feel free to ask. I'm sure there's a lot of more qualified people here though. Also, just Googling your questions will help you find relative articles....

CHECK UTUBE FOR BREWING CLIPS! - that's how I started my research, there's some decent ones on there, but the MidWest DVD is certainly better...

EDIT: are your hops seriously called "guinea pig pellets"????
 
Man....$1000 bucks?? I got into this to, you know....SAVE money.

Yeah...I'm done spending money for the time being. I'm a "one batch at a time" kinda guy. I have several thermometers I just didn't use them as much as I should have. I do need a hydrometer and an auto siphon though. I had to suck on the hose last time and I stopped the siphon towards the end so I could tilt the carboy and I couldn't get the damn thing started again.

My recipe didn't call for any specific temps other than the yeast pitching temp. It simply said to remove the pot from the initial boil and steep the grains in for 20 min then bring to boil, add the rest of the ingredients and continue to boil for 30 min.

And hey, why would I spend money on some DVD when I have this forum? :p
 
Benny Blanco said:
Man....$1000 bucks?? I got into this to, you know....SAVE money.

Yeah...I'm done spending money for the time being. I'm a "one batch at a time" kinda guy. I have several thermometers I just didn't use them as much as I should have. I do need a hydrometer and an auto siphon though. I had to suck on the hose last time and I stopped the siphon towards the end so I could tilt the carboy and I couldn't get the damn thing started again.

My recipe didn't call for any specific temps other than the yeast pitching temp. It simply said to remove the pot from the initial boil and steep the grains in for 20 min then bring to boil, add the rest of the ingredients and continue to boil for 30 min.

And hey, why would I spend money on some DVD when I have this forum? :p

I never said you had to spend that much, my point is, certain tools are necessary to get the job done right. If you want good brew and lower chances of infection, don't cheap out on essentials.

I had the funds to go big so I did, I could have gone small with all the right tools for around $200. It's an investment! Get your friends to 'donate' to future brews when they drink what you've made... it's only fair and after a while the upfront costs will balance out and you will end up with great brews because you did it right.

Also, I suggested the DVD because it's honestly a lot more informative to actually WATCH someone doing it right (at least once or twice) rather than just reading suggestions or directions. If pictures can say a thousand words, video can say much much more... You could order a rubber stopper from them and get the DVD cheap, or heck, I'll send you mine, I have two of them! Trust me on this one! Or if you know someone else who brews, ask to sit in on a session so you can see them in action. Maybe sample some brew while you're at it.

BTW... sucking on the tube is a huge no-no... I say auto siphon for sure, has worked great for me every time so far. If motion-killing bubbles develop in the tube you just give it another push and they're gone! Another tip for you, tilt the carboy (or bucket) by propping it up on a cd case or something before you begin to rack... tilting when it's almost empty is far more likely to stir up the sediment.

Please don't be offended by my suggestions, you are here to learn right? Ultimately you choose how you brew, not me.... just trying to help a fellow out.:)
 
Heh, I wasn't offended. I was just being sarcastic. I def appreciate all the advice. :mug:

I started out with a plastic carboy from my poland spring water cooler and a hand me down bottling bucket and capper. After I bought the kit and a few accessories I had only spent about 40 beans. Then one thing led to another and I kept buying stuff. The outlook doesn't look good. I'm just in denial that I'm hooked as this was something I didn't plan on spending so much time and money on. I tend to spend all my money on my other hobby...music. On the bright side, this is a hell of a lot cheaper than instruments and sound equipment!
 
Benny Blanco said:
Heh, I wasn't offended. I was just being sarcastic. I def appreciate all the advice. :mug:

I started out with a plastic carboy from my poland spring water cooler and a hand me down bottling bucket and capper. After I bought the kit and a few accessories I had only spent about 40 beans. Then one thing led to another and I kept buying stuff. The outlook doesn't look good. I'm just in denial that I'm hooked as this was something I didn't plan on spending so much time and money on. I tend to spend all my money on my other hobby...music. On the bright side, this is a hell of a lot cheaper than instruments and sound equipment!

Like I said... i started out thinking small.. then $200 became $1000! It is an addiction of sorts, but is so cool and fun to learn and grow in such a rewarding hobby that you can share with friends and family!

Just know, there's no rush to expand, but what you do purchase is a good investment in a worthwhile hobby, if you take it seriously. Everyone around you will thank you for the excellent non-commercial brews you provide.

A good idea to help cover costs (once you know you're set up right), is to ask a friend or family member who you know will like a certain brew, to buy the ingredients! You brew it and give them half the batch. That way you get a case of brew and all you have into it is your time! I think I'm going to hit my parents up on a batch of hard cider! It's delicious and easy to hit 7-9% with addition of a few pounds of brown sugar or corn sugar. Total cost for 5 gal is about $35.

5 gal Apple Juice without preservatives (ascorbic acid is ok)
2 lbs dark brown sugar
yeast (Cooper's Ale Yeast works great!)
5-6 gallon bucket with airlock

That's it! All you have to boil is the brown sugar in about a half gallon of apple juice for about five minutes. The bottled apple juice is already pasteurized, so you don't need to boil it! You are never limited to just beer...

See... I can't stop talking about it.. damnit!!! I love homebrew!!!!!:mug: :rockin: :tank:

BTW: I will seriously mail you a copy of that DVD if you want! Just drop me your mailing address...
 
Benny Blanco said:
Man....hard cider. That sounds like a good idea for the holidays. Do you ferment and bottle the same as with beer?

Almost exactly the same, but less work on the initial steps..

I'm doing a spiced cider that is basically what I just listed, but when you transfer to the secondary you add spices like cinnamon and ginger and nutmeg (wassail spices)..

Check out my recipe here...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=40199

Or if you just want a straight cider which is still tasty you just skip the spices or just add a bit, like the orange extract (you could add this before bottling too)...

I tasted this after 1 week, it had dropped from 1.064 to 0.998 gravity (about 8% abv) and it was totally tasty and had a good kick in the pants to it. I think my spices will compliment it quite well!

EDIT: Your comment about the holidays... that's exactly why I've dove in with 7 batches going and 2 more to come! My holidays will be filled with homebrewed delight! That's also how your investment can pay off! It makes excellent holiday gifts! I can't wait for the Fat Tire clone! I love it!

Also.... it stinks a bit for the first few days, but I'm positive it's worth it!
 
Also, because you said your brew is a kolsch...

Kolsch Ale
An old German style of beer that is more lager-like in character. Nice maltiness without as much fruit character as other ales. Some sulfur notes that disappear with aging. Low flocculation, high attenuation. Suggested fermentation temperature is 60°F.

Anything below 70 F is likely either going to require a cold basement or some other temperature controlled environment unless you don't mind living in a cold house.

Another reason to pick your brews according to the fermenting temps you can maintain. Room temp (~70 F) works fine for most ales, wines, meads and ciders... heavier beers like kolsch, stout, lager etc will require a cooler environment to properly ferment. For that very reason I will probably never venture that way unless I get a new house with a garage I can rig up a flat freezer to maintain temps around 55-65 F depending on brew. If in doubt look up recommended ferm temps for the style you want to brew. Get temp strips and stick it on the side of your fermenters so you can monitor temps.

You can brew the kolsh at 70 F, but the result will not be as premium as you may have hoped for.
 
As far as equipment goes, ill just lend my 2 pennies and be done.

I only started this brewing about three weeks ago and it was pretty much an impulse decision. I love beer and i was on the Sam Adams site and they had a home brewing contest and i thought it would be cool. I went a liquor store and found out there was a HBS a couple blocks away. I went in and asked the guy what i needed to start brewing and how hard it would be. He brought out 2 buckets and filled each with everything i would need (turns out it wasnt everything.)

Here it is, and trust me, you dont need any more than this, especially if you are trying to limit your budget and only brewing extract.

-bucket with grommeted lid with 1 inch hole drilled in the top for air lock (primary fermenter)
-bucket with plain snap on lid with 1 inch hole drilled near the bottom for spigot (bottling bucket)
-hydrometer (VERY VERY important)--note that the tube it comes in can be used to take the samples with
-fermometer (sticky liquid crystal strip that allows you to monitor the exact temp of the beer in the primary)
-racking tube
-siphon hose (6ft or so (better to be long than short, especially since that stuff is so cheap))
-some sort of stopper to stick in the hole of the primary fermenter that will seal it
-hole drilled in the stopper for the airlock​
-airlock (style depends on personal preference as there are a few different styles out there)
-Sanitizer i shouldn't have to stress the importance here (I use starsan as was recommended by most people on this forum)
-Bottle Brush VERY key
-Bottle Filler
-Bottle Capper
-Brewing Kit-- if you dont use a kit, make sure to take into account that the kits come with bottle caps and priming solution

now we get into the more off beat stuff or stuff you might not want to buy at your HBS

-turkey baster (i know it sounds stupid, but i used it a LOT in just my first batch)
-taking samples from the primary for hydrometer readings without needing to remove the lid
-for siphoning, (rather than spending money on an auto siphon, put some of the beer from the primary in the siphon tubing using the baster to prime the siphon line... make sure you put enough in to prime the line enough, usually the more you put in the better)​
-Brew Pot in sticking with the theme of saving money, i got mine at ocean state... 5 gallon stainless steel for like 12 dollars after CT 6% sales tax
-Thermometer you can order the floating one from say northwest or some other online retailer for pretty cheap but i know bed bath and beyond has a good sugar one that clips onto your pot for like 12 bucks (i was already started with my batch when i realized i didnt have that key little trinket and the one i got i really like)
-OxyClean useful to clean anything that is gummed up or soiled and it takes labels off like a dream
-Sponge with abrasive back: this will allow you to clean off the gum from the labels on your beer bottles
-Spray bottle that allows you to refill it (Home Depot sells them in 3 packs for 5 bucks) which you can use to put sanitizer in and clean weird places
-Plastic\Stainless Spoon make it at least 18 inches in length, i use 21 inch... it comes in handy (again) many many times

Note: Dont buy a drying rack if you have a dishwasher: spray sanitizer on the dishwasher racks and let it dry, then put the bottles upside down on the rack and let them dry.

And just to note, i have spent the last 3 weeks searching for the absolute best deals i can find so if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

-I don't THINK I forgot anything but i wouldnt doubt im leaving some piece of equipment i have sitting at home out of this list... feel free to contribute as needed
 
Cool, thanks for the tips.

CJ, the stout I'm making now I thought was safe to ferment at room temp. It has been at 70 - 75. Is it gonna taste all funky? It only bubbled vigorously for the first 12 hours or so and then it slowed big time to about one a minute. Hope it's ok.
 
Benny Blanco said:
Cool, thanks for the tips.

CJ, the stout I'm making now I thought was safe to ferment at room temp. It has been at 70 - 75. Is it gonna taste all funky? It only bubbled vigorously for the first 12 hours or so and then it slowed big time to about one a minute. Hope it's ok.

You're probably fine, most my ales and even my heavy barley wine fermented most of the sugars within the first 24 hrs.

You might end up with off flavors because, while kolsch is an ale it is supposed to be at the lower end of ale fermenting temps. Don't worry about it, just make sure to age it plenty in the bottle before drinking it all. Most likely, unless you are a connoisseur of beer, you won't even notice the difference. Just don't try to do this with a lager...

Keep your temps in mind when you pick your next brew! ;)
 

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