Half batch questions

I am interested in doing half batches (2.5 gallons) because I would rather have many cases of different styles of beer on hand than 2 cases of a few styles. So, in doing a half batch, do I just cut all the ingredients in half to stay on tract with the recipes or is there some adjustments required. Also, a half batch would allow me to get a full rolling boil with my 5 gal heavy duty pot instead of doing one pot with water and they other with the wort.

If it is any help, I am doing extract at present, but I am in the process of getting all the fitting together to go all grain in the next month or two.

the first 2 half batches I would like to try are the Bee Cave Pale ale and Kolsch.

Today I just picked up 3- 3 gal bottled water for 3.52 that I think would make some nice fermenters.

My friend does 2.5 gallon batches and he just cuts all the ingredients in half, minus the yeast of course. IMO half batches aren't worth it though, that's a lot of time/effort for ~25 bottles of beer. Why do 25 when it's just as easy to do 50?

toddrod said:

I am interested in doing half batches (2.5 gallons) because I would rather have many cases of different styles of beer on hand than 2 cases of a few styles.

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Just a thought - the owner of my LHBS was talking to me about cooking a whole batch and then splitting it in half. He then can stick to the original recipe with one half and add extra or different ingredients to the other half. This way he has two different tasting beers.

I just did a full batch Stout and flavored half with Cherry extract. I do not mind that because I new going in that I would like the beer. The half batches come in when I do not know the recipe and would hate spending $25-35 dollars on a full batch and end up not liking it. Also, for me time is not a factor, just like reloading ammo, I enjoy doing it, that is why I do it.

If you have brewing software you can always up and downscale the recipes you want using that....It is usually splitting the recipe, but sometimes the hops utilization may need some further fiddling with so it's a good idea to have something to double check with...Even beercalculus.com allows you to change the batch size....

If you don't have an allgrain setup yet you can also do small batch AG on your stovetop...if you have a 4-5 gallon kettle you can get 3.5 gallons or so of wort boiled down to 2.5 with no sweat....my last 5 gallon AG cost 14 bucks if I recall (I don't buy bulk) so that would cost you 7 bucks for 2.5 gallons (plus hops of course.)

THis way you can also work on you AG process before you move outside!

I do have a trial version of promash that I have been playing with and I made a mash tun today from an old 48 qt cooler and cpvc pipe,

May I ask what recipe you are using that it only cost $14?

toddrod said:

I do have a trial version of promash that I have been playing with and I made a mash tun today from an old 48 qt cooler and cpvc pipe,

May I ask what recipe you are using that it only cost $14?

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Well this is my :HBS's prices. It for my house amber ale. Kinda tastes like Bell's Amber, but the color is a little darker.

Revvy's Haus Amber 5-gal

7 3/4# 2-row ($1.40/#)
2 1/2 # Crystal 60 ($1.60/#)

Grain cost $14.85

2 ounces cascade at 60
1 ounce cascade at flameout.

Use your favorite ale yeast...I've used US 05 dry, and Bottle Harvested Pacman and Bell's yeasts.

Great question, I actually stopped by to ask ask the same thing, and this thread answered it for me. However, I noticed someone commented on halving everything except the yeast... What proportion should I divide the yeast?

Also, what are some good common items that I can use as fermenters?

You can use Mr Malty's pitching rate calculator to calculate the amount of yeast needed. http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

As to brewing vessels...3 gallon spring water jugs.



Or 3 gallon better bottles...or you could even blow the dust off the venerable mr beer keg that's in the back of the closet..it is a small batch fermenter after all..



You can also sometimes find 3 gallon ale pales at some LHBS, or even a 3 gallon frosting bucket from a bekery...just get a lid at the hardware store if it doesn't have one...Cut a hole and pop a grommet in for an airlock.

Ok... thanks. What do you use to seal the water jugs?

strahmhv said:

Ok... thanks. What do you use to seal the water jugs?

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The same thing you would use on a better bottle...A carboy cap, or a rubber stopper...(I think it's a #10)...Someone on here just used the plastic cap that came on the jug, they drilled a smale hole and stuck a rubber grommet on it for an airlock....

You could also just afix a blow off tube that fits tightly in the whole mouth of the jug.

You want to make sure those water bottles are safe for fermenting beer. There's a code on the bottom it should have, but I forget what it is at the moment... hopefully someone can chime in with it.

The Blow Leprechaun said:

You want to make sure those water bottles are safe for fermenting beer. There's a code on the bottom it should have, but I forget what it is at the moment... hopefully someone can chime in with it.

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This is one of the issues which people like to go back and forth on and it never really get's resolved...Technically if it's safe to hold drinking water it will be safe for beer (Plenty of people have been using Culligan bottles for years, even though they're snubbed by the more EAC brewers, as being oxygen permeable).

But especially now with the BPE scare, most of the bad ones are off the market, but if possible look for <1> or <2> on the bottom....Stay away from 7's though...that stands for (other). That's the ones that possibly contained BPE

If you have ever watched any of the basic brewing radio vids they have brewed just a 6pack of beer before.

http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing/bbv01-12-06.mp4