Am I going overboard with hops in this IPA?

I'm planning an IPA this weekend and wondering if I'm going a bit overboard with the hops.

Here is what I'm looking at using:
7.5 lbs light DME
1.2 lbs light liquid malt extract (have this can lying around ... will add near the end of the boil)
1 lb crystal (60 lov) malt
1 lb Belgian Caravienne
.5 lb 2 row barley
.5 Victory malt

2 oz chinook (for 60 minutes)
2 oz cascade (15 minutes or maybe 30 depending on my mood)
2 oz centennial (dry hop)

I can do a 3 gallon boil and planning on making it a 6 gallon recipe (I like filling a few bottles for sampling while it's aging in addition to the keg)

I've put this into 3 different online calculators (Tasty Brew, Beer Calculus, and Beer Recipator) and gotten very different results for IBU. I love hoppy beers right now but don't want to overdo it on bitterness.

Thanks,
Gabe

Beersmith says about 63 IBU's which is to style. I can't be certain how accurate this is because you didn't provide the alpha acid percent for the hops you are going to use.

Overall, the amount of hops looks alright.

I used 7 oz in my IPA and got 97 IBU's on one of the calculators and it wasnt as hoppy as I thought it would be. So go for it.

It's like me asking how hot I should make my salsa. Only I know how I like it. It's all very personal.

I say go for it. It will at least be delicious, and you will know how to adjust it next time.

I need to know a few things first before I can give you a really good answer.

First: ) this is in the Extract section so I assume that you will be steeping the grains, as the 2-row needs to be mashed and the victory should be as well.

Second: ) do you like very bitter beers or very flavorful beers

I can suggest several ideas just let me know the answers to the above questions and I can give you good info. IMHO

sounds awesome. I'd add the cascade at 15, or 15 and 10, but not at 30. you'll lose too much flavor at 30.

SRFeldman79 said:

sounds awesome. I'd add the cascade at 15, or 15 and 10, but not at 30. you'll lose too much flavor at 30.

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+1. I'd go for a 10 minute addition rather than a 15, but I don't think you'd get much benefit from an addition at 30 minutes.

Bet it'll be a great beer though

QUIT WASTING HOPS!!!!!!

I assume the two-row is pale malt. You will get virtually nothing from that addition without mashing, so just take it out.


TL

niquejim said:

IFirst: ) this is in the Extract section so I assume that you will be steeping the grains, as the 2-row needs to be mashed and the victory should be as well.

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Actually, Two-row is often added in extract w/steeping grains nowadays(AHS does it in their kits, and I asked Forrest about it on a thread awhile back)

Austinhomebrew said:

We added 2-row to all of our kits. 2-row has enzymes that (in theory) help "convert" more sugars and flavor out of the specialty grains. It is a good idea to add a little to every recipe. If you read about 2-row and mashing. it has nothing to do with getting the sugars out of the 1/2 pound of 2 row added. We add it for the enzymes and not the sugar. If you were trying to convert the sugars of the 2-row then you would need to steep it longer. If you follow the instructions you will be ok.

Forrest

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Victory can be used either steeped or mashed...(I did research on it for my brown ale recipe.)

From Brewdudes;

http://www.brew-dudes.com/victory-malt/166

The malt has no diastatic power so you can use it as a steeping grain. Because of the flavor it imparts, Nut brown ales are a good candidate for this malt. I think it would be a good addition to dark beers, especially a porter. If you wanted to make an American Brown Ale and stay on theme, Victory Malt would be a good addition. Probably no more than 20% of your grain bill.

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cheezydemon said:

It's like me asking how hot I should make my salsa. Only I know how I like it. It's all very personal.

I say go for it. It will at least be delicious, and you will know how to adjust it next time.

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Ditto - it sounds like a plan to me. If it comes out "too hoppy" (in quotes because though the words can be put together, the concept is almost impossible to imagine), you can let it mellow a couple of months and use a lighter load next time.

Originally Posted by niquejim
IFirst: ) this is in the Extract section so I assume that you will be steeping the grains, as the 2-row needs to be mashed and the victory should be as well.




Actually, Two-row is often added in extract w/steeping grains nowadays(AHS does it in their kits, and I asked Forrest about it on a thread awhile back)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Austinhomebrew
We added 2-row to all of our kits. 2-row has enzymes that (in theory) help "convert" more sugars and flavor out of the specialty grains. It is a good idea to add a little to every recipe. If you read about 2-row and mashing. it has nothing to do with getting the sugars out of the 1/2 pound of 2 row added. We add it for the enzymes and not the sugar. If you were trying to convert the sugars of the 2-row then you would need to steep it longer. If you follow the instructions you will be ok.

Forrest



Victory can be used either steeped or mashed...(I did research on it for my brown ale recipe.)

From Brewdudes;

http://www.brew-dudes.com/victory-malt/166


Quote:
The malt has no diastatic power so you can use it as a steeping grain. Because of the flavor it imparts, Nut brown ales are a good candidate for this malt. I think it would be a good addition to dark beers, especially a porter. If you wanted to make an American Brown Ale and stay on theme, Victory Malt would be a good addition. Probably no more than 20% of your grain bill






You'll notice I said "as the 2-row needs to be mashed and the victory should be as well.", should be, not must be, on the Victory. As to the 2-row I don't understand the logic of steeping it. If the "steeping grain" is something like Munich, it will convert itself. If the "steeping grain" is something like crystal, there's nothing to convert. In addition, almost any pale malt will convert in 20 min.. or so, so I don't get the "need to steep it longer thing".

IMHO - if you are worried about it being too hoppy, reserve some of the hops. "Too hoppy" sounds like there may be a threshold point that if passed, you may not like the result. Another option would be to buy a little more hops and a little more extract/grains and split the bill into two APA's. Twice the beer and perhaps more in a comfort area.

If it was mine I would just roll with it - "too hoppy" is a phrase I've yet to use.:rockin:

There's a difference between too hoppy, and too bitter.

I like Chinooks flavor / aroma (nice and piney).

I'd be inclined to get as much of those flavoring hops in with less than 10 minutes as possible.

Niquejim!!!! use the QUOTE button. I'm sorry, but your post is too confusing.

Awesome flavor can be gotten from tha cascade (as has been said) from 15 min or less with no real bitterness added.

BierMuncher said:

There's a difference between too hoppy, and too bitter.

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Right, right - read through the posts before adding my own $0.02 and by the time a read it all through I had the original ? mixed up. Sorry about that.

Still, I stand by the main point - if it might be (could be) too much for personal taste, backing off on the boil addition and saving the remaining for a later brew may be the way to go.

NWernBrewer said:

...mixed up. Sorry about that.

Still, I stand by the main point - if it might be (could be) too much for personal taste, backing off on the boil addition and saving the remaining for a later brew may be the way to go.

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No thing...

I love hops flavor more and more with each batch (bad timing with the hop shortage though).

I just shy from the make-you-tear bitter beers where too much hops goes in too early in the boil.

For me (all grain brewing), it's First Wort Hopping and 10 minute (or less) additions. Nothing in between. Dry hop to flavor preference.

Revvy said:

Actually, Two-row is often added in extract w/steeping grains nowadays(AHS does it in their kits, and I asked Forrest about it on a thread awhile back)




Victory can be used either steeped or mashed...(I did research on it for my brown ale recipe.)

From Brewdudes;

http://www.brew-dudes.com/victory-malt/166

Click to expand...

Cheesy see what happens when I hit quote. Where are the quotes in the original post, or am I doing something wrong

BierMuncher said:

No thing...

I love hops flavor more and more with each batch (bad timing with the hop shortage though).

I just shy from the make-you-tear bitter beers where too much hops goes in too early in the boil.

For me (all grain brewing), it's First Wort Hopping and 10 minute (or less) additions. Nothing in between. Dry hop to flavor preference.

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That's what I was going to suggest, but I was waiting to hear from the OP whether he Steeps or PM's so I could suggest FWH'ing and late, like all my recipes

niquejim said:

Cheesy see what happens when I hit quote. Where are the quotes in the original post, or am I doing something wrong

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I don't think you did anything wrong...I think this forum software can't handle quotes within quotes....

Revvy said:

I don't think you did anything wrong...I think this forum software can't handle quotes within quotes....

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Thanks, I knew it looked strange but answering questions that aren't there isn't right either

It is not unusual for me to use about 9oz in a 5 gallon batch. I made an IIPA 90minute boil with 18oz of hops added continually 2 oz every 10 minutes.