My 1 bbl. system build

hampdenbrewing said:

:
Great idea!!!
Hmmm, do I install a compressor or how about using a CO2 tank? Nevermind the locking casters. What about a drive system for the wheels? WAIT !!! I see what you guys trying to do. You've all spent a ton of money building your systems and you do want to go down alone.

Click to expand...

And I get to do it with other people's money

I was thinking airbag suspension and 22" spinners
You are going to chrome this frame... right?

Don't forget the bobble head doggie in the back of it.....

looks good

Starting to layout the water system with the inlet and filters. Plumbed it with a hose connection inlet and into a shutdown ball valve. The first filter is a sediment the second is a carbon. I installed unions on both sides of the filters for ease of maintenance. From here I will tee off with a line to a washdown hose connection and to the water fill valve. I found the filters at my local Ace Hardware for $21.99 ea. as they are Ace/Culligans.

Rough cut the Trex boards for the brew stand decking. Set them in place to get an idea of the spacing between boards. I'll fasten the boards together into 3 sections so that they will be easily removable for cleanup. There is 26" of spacing in between the kettles which seems like a comfortable amount of work space.

Just came across this today and was looking to use it for a mash mixer. It's a 1/2hp motor 1700rpm, final speed = 39rpm 754in. lbs. torque. Wondering if this speed would be OK and would this be powerful enough? I quess the next question would be regarding paddle size and design. At 240V it only draws 2A FL, so no problem with adding it in to my panel.

I decided to Stay Brite solder the nuts to the tank rather than TIG them because the wall is kind of thin. I do like that the elements are flush on the inside of the tank. Not sure if I'll solder mounting studs for the electrical boxes to the side of the tank or figure a way to attach them to the stainless nuts.

hampdenbrewing said:

I decided to Stay Brite solder the nuts to the tank rather than TIG them because the wall is kind of thin. I do like that the elements are flush on the inside of the tank. Not sure if I'll solder mounting studs for the electrical boxes to the side of the tank or figure a way to attach them to the stainless nuts.

Click to expand...

You sure you meant TIG and not MIG? Razor blade edges can be TIG welded

Since you're not accommodating burners or gravity draining, why a platform at all? I'd just put each vessel on its own dolly cart 4" off the floor.

So, are the kettles going to be 'man-handled' to dump the mash?

Bobby_M said:

Since you're not accommodating burners or gravity draining, why a platform at all? I'd just put each vessel on its own dolly cart 4" off the floor.

Click to expand...

I suspect for pump mounting/orientation. It would be hard to keep a pump below your vessel if its that close to the floor. I guess you could just set your pumps on the floor though.

l3asturd said:

I suspect for pump mounting/orientation. It would be hard to keep a pump below your vessel if its that close to the floor. I guess you could just set your pumps on the floor though.

Click to expand...

With vessels that large (tall), the head pressure is so great that the pump can actually be above the bottom and they will prime no problem.

Bobby_M said:

With vessels that large (tall), the head pressure is so great that the pump can actually be above the bottom and they will prime no problem.

Click to expand...

I agree totally, I was just thinking of lower volumes. As long as flow was continuous from start to finish there wouldn't be any problems with a "toolbox" pump option.

OneHoppyGuy said:

You sure you meant TIG and not MIG? Razor blade edges can be TIG welded

Click to expand...

Although thats true, my welder is a MIG unit with TIG capability but is not as precise as some higher end machines. So rather then make a mess, soldering on the HLT made sense. The BK wall is much thicker(16ga) and won't be a problem.

Bobby_M said:

Since you're not accommodating burners or gravity draining, why a platform at all? I'd just put each vessel on its own dolly cart 4" off the floor.

Click to expand...

One of the great things about this hobby is that it can be an exercise in creativity, plus my goal is to keep everything self contained within one unit.

OneHoppyGuy said:

So, are the kettles going to be 'man-handled' to dump the mash?

Click to expand...

For now we'll scoop out the spent grains. I'm looking for a small manway to put on the MT side.

l3asturd said:

I suspect for pump mounting/orientation. It would be hard to keep a pump below your vessel if its that close to the floor. I guess you could just set your pumps on the floor though.

Click to expand...

Correct, Pumps on the bottom of the frame.

I made up a cool plate to shield the back side of the weld without using Argon and to prevent the area from distorting. I used a piece of copper buss bar cut large enough to cover the welded area, then shaped it to the inside curvature of the kettle. Bolted together it sealed the area and held the nut from moving.

Showing the cool plate on the inside and the completed weld.

Beautiful!

I love what you did there.

That's a slick little welding jig there. I'm really liking this build.

excellent build! and excellent jig idea!

Fabbed up the water filters bracket and trial mounted the panel. Finally the stand in nearing completion.

The build is looking sweet!

looks good!!

Very nice work so far! And cool jig idea. Cheers!

At the suggestion of an electrician friend I am installing a separate panel to house circuit breakers and power distribution. Found some 25A 2 pole DIN mount breakers on Ebay for $10 ea. Also will be installing a 120V GFCI receptical for convience. The panel was another one I pulled out of scrap a couple of days ago.

Completed the construction of the removable deck sections. Also finished the mounting of the power distribution box before removing it for painting.

Came across this today to use for the MT grant. Its an old 2 1/2gal Carvel ice cream container. Too cool to pass up. I'll try to get it framed in later tonight. Only two major projects left to weld up on the frame; the pump mounts and the HERMS vessel mounting. Then let the painting begin.

If I had a do over, I would have two control panels. One for all the high power stuff (fuses, breakers, contactors, SSRs) and one for all the switches and controls.

Started to begin the layout of the power panel and beginning to wire the contactors to SSRs. I'm crimping, then soldering the 10ga wire connections. I decided to use hi-temp ring terminals to reduce the chances of a burnt or over heated connection point. Got the grant bracket fabbed and welded in and starting to figure the HERMS vessel mounting.

Looking good. Keep us updated. Love the pics!

It was suggested to me by an electrician friend to use pvc conduit and boxes for the wiring through-out the brewstand for the kettle elements. The cost was real reasonable and the benefits of water resistance a big plus. I'm going to use the 3 pole 30A receptacles and plugs, another huge savings over twist-lock. I have that type of receptacle in use on my welder and its not likely the plug will ever disconnect or fall out. Using outdoor weatherproof covers will be the final step to reduce moisture issues.The pvc conduit is 1" so it will accomodate the #10 wires going to the boxes.

I had this idea for my setup awhile back but never went through with it. I'd love to see everything mounted.

Hey Doug,

I am currently building a similar system from some used food grade 55 gallon barrels, and I was wondering what size fittings you are using in the mash tun? I was planning to make an automated electric HERMS with a bunch of solenoids and sensors and use a 1/2" fitting with the drain hole cut from the bottom to allow for maximum drainage. Are you panning on whirl-pooling in the boil tank? I live in Newton MA and there is a guy I know in NH selling used 1/2 bbl kegs at a fair price if you are looking for some storage options for that freshly brewed beer.

McGolden_Brew said:

Hey Doug,

I am currently building a similar system from some used food grade 55 gallon barrels, and I was wondering what size fittings you are using in the mash tun? I was planning to make an automated electric HERMS with a bunch of solenoids and sensors and use a 1/2" fitting with the drain hole cut from the bottom to allow for maximum drainage. Are you panning on whirl-pooling in the boil tank? I live in Newton MA and there is a guy I know in NH selling used 1/2 bbl kegs at a fair price if you are looking for some storage options for that freshly brewed beer.

Click to expand...

When you say "food grade", do you mean stainless or carbon steel drums that are coated on the inside to transport juice concentrate etc? If stainless then thats awesome. But the latter is not acceptable for brewing, and at least one person I am aware of has tried and failed. They are safe for food but not safe for heat, the coating will deteriorate almost immediately and leave you with a big rusty can.

No they are stainless through and through, and they were used in a food production process.

McGolden_Brew said:

Hey Doug,

I am currently building a similar system from some used food grade 55 gallon barrels, and I was wondering what size fittings you are using in the mash tun? I was planning to make an automated electric HERMS with a bunch of solenoids and sensors and use a 1/2" fitting with the drain hole cut from the bottom to allow for maximum drainage. Are you panning on whirl-pooling in the boil tank? I live in Newton MA and there is a guy I know in NH selling used 1/2 bbl kegs at a fair price if you are looking for some storage options for that freshly brewed beer.

Click to expand...

The MT is draining into a grant rather than pumping directly from the tank so as not to suck the grainbed to the false bottom. Drain fitting size, I think should be matched somewhat to the pump inlet size. I'm still on the fence between welded T/C 1" or 3/4 weldless. Although leaning towards welded because of the benefits. The drawback is the initial costs,which is primarily in the valves. Been thinking about using a float switch in the grant to operate the pump and control the level to prevent cavitation. I may be able to whirlpool the BK by either recirc with the wort pump, or I have a drive unit not being used right now that I could configure for that purpose.

McGolden_Brew said:

No they are stainless through and through, and they were used in a food production process.

Click to expand...

Cool cause we're pretty sure the dude who used drums is dead