can someone convert my grain bill to extract?

This is the first recipe that ive ever written, i kind of modeled it after an Alesmith IPA recipe as far as the grain bill is concerned.

11# Pale 2 Row
2.5# Munich 10L
.13# Crystal 20L
.13# Wheat Malt Light


SRM between 9 and 12 is my target coloring
OG 1.067 16.68 Plato
FG 1.018 4.606 Plato

California ale yeast V

thank you in advance and cheers

Can you steep some of the grains? Or can you buy Munich extract?

i can defnitely steep the crystal. is munich malt a steeping or a mashing grain. i wasnt sure and have been meaning to look into it

YooperBrew said:

Can you steep some of the grains? Or can you buy Munich extract?

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It would be great if someone can do a FAQ or how to on converting all-grain to partial... this questions is frenquently asked in every thread. I know some of you do it with beersmith or brewtarget, but I dont know how to do it...

looked into it, munich is a base grain, yes i know my greenhorn is showing. I think beersmith has a conversion tool in it but I dont have it

Munich is a base grain, but it can convert itself so you can do a partial mash.

How much grain will you be able to steep? And what size boil?

Converting recipes is easy- you just need to replace the basemalt with extract. For plain two-row, light DME or pale LME is usually the best choice.

One pound of grain = .75 pounds LME = .6 pounds DME.

Specialty grains remain the same, and you can do a partial mash if you want to keep some of the grains like Munich or Vienna.

Keep in mind that your boil volume is very important- a small 2.5 boil volume will require more hops that an AG recipe which is a full boil. So, that information is needed when you convert.

YooperBrew said:

Munich is a base grain, but it can convert itself so you can do a partial mash.

Click to expand...

Incidentally, this is really, really easy if you've already done a steep.

In fact, it's almost identical to steeping except you want to make sure you hold the temperature at around 152F (as you learn more about mash temps, you may vary that somewhat), and steep for an hour instead of 20 minutes.

See https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/ for step-by-step instructions with pics (thanks to DeathBrewer!).

Master that, and you've got most of the skills you need to do brew in a bag all-grain batches.

i think i might love you for show me this tutorial. I'm still very new to this whole mashing business, how is this different from a full mash? is it just that not all of the recipe is grain?

Rguardian989 said:

i think i might love you for show me this tutorial. I'm still very new to this whole mashing business, how is this different from a full mash? is it just that not all of the recipe is grain?

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Yes. You'll use as much grain as you can fit in your pot/bag/mash tun/whatever and then use extract to make up the fermentables. It's not difficult at all.

I'd be happy to convert the recipe, if I knew what size boil you wanted to do!

5 gallons is what the recipe calls for

Rguardian989 said:

5 gallons is what the recipe calls for

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Yes, but how much are you able to boil at the beginning? I need that information to be able to convert the recipe. Also, how many pounds of grain will you be able to steep/mash?

YooperBrew said:

Keep in mind that your boil volume is very important- a small 2.5 boil volume will require more hops that an AG recipe which is a full boil. So, that information is needed when you convert.

Click to expand...

My understanding (which is sometimes incorrect) is that it's boil gravity that is most important. You can do a 2.5 litre 1040 boil with X grams of 5% aa hops and get Y IBU. Dilute that to 20 litres with water and the IBU becomes Z IBU. The same amount of hops in a 1040 boil designed to hit the same final volume should also give Z IBU. There may be some fiddly, not quite right bits as evaporation rates and boil vigour may differ between the two but theoretically (and close enough for most homebrew purposes - is that not the case?

manticle said:

My understanding (which is sometimes incorrect) is that it's boil gravity that is most important. You can do a 2.5 litre 1040 boil with X grams of 5% aa hops and get Y IBU. Dilute that to 20 litres with water and the IBU becomes Z IBU. The same amount of hops in a 1040 boil designed to hit the same final volume should also give Z IBU. There may be some fiddly, not quite right bits as evaporation rates and boil vigour may differ between the two but theoretically (and close enough for most homebrew purposes - is that not the case?

Click to expand...

It's not actually that simple--you don't get twice the utilization in a 1.040 boil as you do in a 1.020 boil. How much it differs is still a matter of debate. For instance, with 1.5 oz of Northern Brewer up front and 1 oz of Fuggles @15 and flameout, the two most accurate algorithms give:

Tinseth (Full boil): 50 IBUs
Tinseth (2.5 gallon boil): 31 IBUs
Rager (Full boil): 63 IBUs
Rager (2.5 gallon boil): 50 IBUs

They're off by a bit, but in both cases it's well more than 50% the utilization in the concentrated boil.

(In reality it's not actually the gravity of the wort that matters, it's the concentration of break material--gravity is a useful proxy for that in common cases, but if you're interested in what's going on it's worth having a listen to the March 20, 2008 BBR episode featuring John Palmer discussing IBUs at http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2008 )

To add to that the theoretical nature of IBU count vs actual IBU makes it confusing for HB.

Thanks for that anyway.