Looks this might be a winner for the contest titled "what I'm going to brew Monday."
I'm this close --> <-- to finally trying all-grain, but I feel like I need to learn more about water chemistry. SO, in the meantime:
What's the "mash" or resting temperature and time for the dextrine and Crystal? 150-160 for 30 mins?
ETA: Ooh! ALSO: I do full volume boils. How much should I back off on the additions?
Thanks!
Ike
This beer is great. Make it!
If you are talking steeping dextrine and crystal, do 1 quart per lb at 150F for 30 minutes. Its not critical. If I steep with extract I add water for the partial, then the grain in a bag and heat it up. Removing it before it passes 160F. If I'm busy preping stuff, I let it rest, flame out for 30-40 minutes at 150F or so.
Don't let the water chemistry stop you from going all grain.
Do you have good tasting water right from the tap? If so, don't worry about it, it can get pretty complicated. I don't worry about it....
For info read the website, how to brew by John Palmer
http://www.howtobrew.com/
More specifically;
http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15.html
Your local water treatment facility can send you a water report, then you will look at what your water is like regionally from famous brewing regions. I believe Palmer (the author) has instructions of what to add, like so much distilled water, calcium sulfate CaSO4 (gypsum) and sodium chloride NaCl (salt). Its been awhile since it read it though.
So is your water hard or soft or in between? I think hard means it has alot of gypsum and salts, where soft is low on both.
Charlie Papazian recomends that you that dechlorinate your water. Do this via carbon filtration or you can boil it or measure it out then just leave it out uncovered overnight. The chlorine will out-gas and be gone. I think it depends how chlorinated it seems. Who's to judge. Does it taste like a swimming pool?
If you know your water is soft, he (Charlie) recommends 1 to 4 teaspoons of gypsum and 1/2 teaspoon of salt per 5 gallons. He says this is completely optional. He also says or emphasizes no more than 1/2 teaspoon of salt.
If you are a pro then this is more important for adhereance to a style or maintaining an established flavor profile. It can also effect a profit margin of a pro-brewer. (The paragraphs are paraphrased from Charlies Book TCJOHB.)
The calcium (Ca) ion helps for removal proteins, tannins, and grain husk flavors during the boil. These can leave a haze if not removed and may make your beer taste slightly harsher than if was removed. After fermentation this ion aides in clearing, helps yeast sediment easier.
The sulfate ion (SO4) will help with giving your beer a crisp clean taste. Too much will result in poor hop utilization (lack of bittering). The taste is more salty and harsh with a possible laxative effect.
The sodium ion (Na) enhances other flavor characteristics, but contributes nothing itself. Too much makes it harsh, sour or metalic.
The chloride ion (Cl) helps lend a soft, round full sweeter flavor to beer. No notable negatives.
FWIW - I add nothing to my water. I live in central Illinois and have city water. When I lived in Iowa and was on rural water I carbon filtered and checked the pH. Hoping it was close to 5.2. Back then, I brewed outside and had a white food grade hose and carbon filter for motor homes. It worked pretty good. Both available at wal-mart.
I used to use "5" a pH stabilizer. If you want high mash efficiency and are using a lot acidic grains (more highly kilned) they can lower the pH. This stabolizer help get it right to 5.2 pH. Its a buffer for pH, salts and minerals.
Remember - If your water tastes good right from the tap, use it. You can obsess about water profiles later. Brew all-grain and taste the difference.