My Heat Stick - Tri-clamp

cjp4627 · Sep 25, 2015

Hey guys,

Just got all the parts for this build from StillDragon. About $120 invested with the heating element and all the fittings. Still need to do the electrical stuff. Will be soldering a ground lug in the 2"45° fitting. Fits my corny keg kettle perfect.

I am using a 240v 2000w HWD element from Rheem. I will be running this on 120v to make it ULWD with an output of 500w.

The purpose of this is to supplement my external heating element (1440w) on my corny keggle. I will use it to heat strike water, mash out, and to get a more vigorous boil while I am circulating through the counter-flow chiller to sanitize it. I wasn't happy with the current elements ability to maintain a boil in during the sanitation cycle for the chiller.

jcav · Sep 25, 2015

Very creative! You should post some pics when your finished fabricating it.

John

cjp4627 · Sep 25, 2015

Ground lug soldered in place. I used some generic flux and silver solder.

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jcav · Sep 25, 2015

Nice job so far, looking good!

John

BBBF · Sep 28, 2015

The lack of a clean ground is the only reason I never put mine together.

What kind of solder did you use?

cjp4627 · Sep 28, 2015

It was silver solder with some generic flux from home depot. It seems really well adhered. The resistance is too low to measure with my standard ohm meter. I will post up finished pictures in a few hours.

pricelessbrewing · Sep 28, 2015

Seems pretty neat, but I have to say the cost effectiveness is outside of my preferences. For that price I'd do a hot rod from brewhardware or just replace the existing element with a higher wattage.

cjp4627 · Sep 28, 2015

pricelessbrewing said:
Seems pretty neat, but I have to say the cost effectiveness is outside of my preferences. For that price I'd do a hot rod from brewhardware or just replace the existing element with a higher wattage.

I do agree that the cost is higher than other options. This setup offer so much flexibility though. I looked hard at the Hot Rod but didn't like how tall it was and the fact that the element was on able to be installed at 90° angle. I brew in corny keggle and it is only 9" wide. With the hotrod, a standard element really wouldn't fit. It would have been about 9.5. In my setup everything is 100% adjustable.

I am not able to upgrade the element in my kettle because I am using flexible silicone heater on the outside of the kettle. Upgrading isn't an option and any upgrade would be more expensive than what I built. I love the setup now because there is absolutely nothing inside the kettle to clean around. The primary element sticks to the outside and the hear stick is removable.

I also greatly reduced the power output of this unit on purpose. I tried an electric element a few years ago and burned every batch I brewed. With the setup I am nearly 100% scorch free guaranteed.

See the pictures below for the finished product. I fired up at work and it works like a charm.

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cjp4627 · Sep 28, 2015

Double post

jcav · Sep 28, 2015

Brilliant!

cjp4627 · Sep 28, 2015

jcav said:
Brilliant!

Thanks!

Bobby_M · Sep 28, 2015

Did you know I can also put custom bends on the hotrod drop tube? I've done it for a lot of grainfather users. Also, if the height turns you off a simple 90 bend at the top shaves that off and puts the cord in a more relaxed position. $55 is a lot cheaper and has a welded ground. I guess another benefit is less bulk in general.

cjp4627 · Sep 28, 2015

I did know about the bends that you can put in them. I actually sent an email last weekend to you about doing something like that but never heard back.

Bobby_M · Sep 29, 2015

Sorry about that. I sometimes get overwhelmed with emails over the weekend.

cjp4627 · Sep 29, 2015

Bobby_M said:
Sorry about that. I sometimes get overwhelmed with emails over the weekend.

I understand. I didnt wait at all before I went the other way so it wasn't a determining factor overall. I would still be interested to know the answer to my question though.

Could I add a 2" 45° triclamp fitting to the end of the hotrod? That would keep the unit flexible for the future if I changed kettles.

augiedoggy · Sep 30, 2015

cjp4627 said:
I do agree that the cost is higher than other options. This setup offer so much flexibility though. I looked hard at the Hot Rod but didn't like how tall it was and the fact that the element was on able to be installed at 90° angle. I brew in corny keggle and it is only 9" wide. With the hotrod, a standard element really wouldn't fit. It would have been about 9.5“. In my setup everything is 100% adjustable.

I am not able to upgrade the element in my kettle because I am using flexible silicone heater on the outside of the kettle. Upgrading isn't an option and any upgrade would be more expensive than what I built. I love the setup now because there is absolutely nothing inside the kettle to clean around. The primary element sticks to the outside and the hear stick is removable.

I also greatly reduced the power output of this unit on purpose. I tried an electric element a few years ago and burned every batch I brewed. With the setup I am nearly 100% scorch free guaranteed.

See the pictures below for the finished product. I fired up at work and it works like a charm.

If you had scorching issues on every batch its very likely you werent using an ULWD element like the ripple ones... that or turning off the element and letting proteins settle on it before turning it back on without mixing. scorching is a non issue with the correct element and practices.

It seems like more work than its worth for 500w? Why not just buy a 5- 7 gallon stainless kettle for $30? just trying to understand your reasoning ... Not trying to discourage you or your system.

cjp4627 · Sep 30, 2015

I for sure was not using a ULWD element. When I built this rig three years ago, people swore up and down that you couldn't scorch a batch with the element I had. I was beyond frustrated with everything I read online and went my own route.

I installed an external silicone stick on heating pad and that handled boiling just fine. It could not however keep up the boiling while sanitizing so I wanted to add this unit.

They beauty of this setup is that it is by no means limited to 500w. You could easily get 2000w out of a 115v unit or 5500 on 240v. Just like any other sheet stick. If I decide I don't want the 45 in there, I just take out. It is very versatile.

The big reason I was unable to use most heating elements in my kettle was because of its small diameter. I am brewing in a corny keggle. Most ripple elements are significantly longer than the 9" diameter of my brew pot.

augiedoggy · Sep 30, 2015

cjp4627 said:
I for sure was not using a ULWD element. When I built this rig three years ago, people swore up and down that you couldn't scorch a batch with the element I had. I was beyond frustrated with everything I read online and went my own route.

I installed an external silicone stick on heating pad and that handled boiling just fine. It could not however keep up the boiling while sanitizing so I wanted to add this unit.

They beauty of this setup is that it is by no means limited to 500w. You could easily get 2000w out of a 115v unit or 5500 on 240v. Just like any other sheet stick. If I decide I don't want the 45 in there, I just take out. It is very versatile.

The big reason I was unable to use most heating elements in my kettle was because of its small diameter. I am brewing in a corny keggle. Most ripple elements are significantly longer than the 9" diameter of my brew pot.

But a corny keg is more costly than an actual stainless kettle of the same size that has advantages over the corny in this application so why use the corny keg as a kettle? Its already costing you more money going this route.. Whats the benefit?

cjp4627 · Sep 30, 2015

The route has already been taken. There were many events that led me to where I am. I am happy with what I have at this point. I can still use the heatstick in any setup in have in the future. The only thing I have that would not be reusable is the keg itself.

Bobby_M · Sep 30, 2015

Yes, the face of the hotrod is standard 2" TC so it's compatible with all other 2" TC.

robert843 · Oct 10, 2015

Ordered my Hotrod Heat Stick on 5 OCT. It arrived on 9 OCT (Puerto Rico). Super quality and cannot wait to give it a workout next week. I settled on the 1500 W element to augment my propane burners to speed up my process -- especially when brewing a 10 gallon batch.

My Heat Stick - Tri-clamp

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