Getting Mypin TD4 into and setting Manual Mode

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NiteOwlBrewing

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In an effort to reduce the steam output I've installed a Mypin TD4 to control the boil kettle with manual mode. Used to let 5500W rip through the boil (I do big boils), but condensation was getting annoying, so here I am. I've searched for this, but I really cannot figure it out and I'm hoping to get the answer here and help anyone else out searching. First, it is wired correctly as I can get the SSR to fire when the set value is above present value. However I CANNOT figure out how to get it into manual mode at all. I've got the AT/M and P/MV lights illuminated and I can't tell if I'm setting the % at that point or not. The SSR never seems to kick on/off with regard to the setting only the SV temp setting when I turn off manual mode. Could there be another setting I've got incorrect? Would it help if I listed out all the settings? A step-by-step would help as I'm at my wit's end here! Thanks for any assistance.
 
NiteOwlBrewing said:
In an effort to reduce the steam output I've installed a Mypin TD4 to control the boil kettle with manual mode. Used to let 5500W rip through the boil (I do big boils), but condensation was getting annoying, so here I am. I've searched for this, but I really cannot figure it out and I'm hoping to get the answer here and help anyone else out searching. First, it is wired correctly as I can get the SSR to fire when the set value is above present value. However I CANNOT figure out how to get it into manual mode at all. I've got the AT/M and P/MV lights illuminated and I can't tell if I'm setting the % at that point or not. The SSR never seems to kick on/off with regard to the setting only the SV temp setting when I turn off manual mode. Could there be another setting I've got incorrect? Would it help if I listed out all the settings? A step-by-step would help as I'm at my wit's end here! Thanks for any assistance.
Click to expand...
hold the blue "M" button don for 3 seconds the green "manual" mode light will come on... then enter your value= example 70% means the element is on for 70% of each second. and hit set... its actually easy once you remember. the arrow key will move your setpoint over depending on which digit you want to change unless you want to keep hitting up or down and do it the long way.
 
I do not have the burner hooked up yet, so I'm monitoring the results by the Out1 light and SSR LED indicator. In manual mode is this a good indication of whether burner will fire? If so, here's what I've done and the result: held down the blue "M" button for a bit and the "AT/M" light illuminates. Then I press the blue button to set the value to 63.0 (current temp is 64) and hit "Set." Out1 does not light up at all. If I then set the value to 65.0 (current temp is still 64) and hit "Set," "Out1" illuminates and stays on. It seems its still trying to hit the set temp rather than a %. Am I doing something wrong or have they potentially changed the TD4? In the instructions there is a mention of the leftmost light being "P/MV" and, when illuminated, indicates "MV manual output." Should this light also be on? Thanks for any assistance...
 
after holding the "M" button for three seconds and the light comes on you have to hit "set" (yellow button) and THEN enter your % value..example 50% will make the element toggle on and off for 1/2 a second each... keep in mind when you hit the "set" button the number it displays was the current value it was using in pid mode before you entered manual mode...
You need to have the temp probe plugged in and working as well...
 
Ok, pressing "Set" enables me to enter a different mode that will only let me enter a value of 0-100, so I think I'm in the right place. Trouble I'm finding is even after setting value to 50, 100 or zero the Out1 light and LED on SSR never cycle. If the PID set value is above the temp, the SSR continues to fire and if below the SSR remains off regardless of manual setting. Here's exactly what I do: hold blue button down until the rightmost light illuminates, press set and the leftmost light illuminates and the setting screen shows 0.0, set to 50 using arrows and hit set again. It still displays the manual setting, but nothing cycles that I can see at all. Any thoughts?
 
NiteOwlBrewing said:
Ok, pressing "Set" enables me to enter a different mode that will only let me enter a value of 0-100, so I think I'm in the right place. Trouble I'm finding is even after setting value to 50, 100 or zero the Out1 light and LED on SSR never cycle. If the PID set value is above the temp, the SSR continues to fire and if below the SSR remains off regardless of manual setting. Here's exactly what I do: hold blue button down until the rightmost light illuminates, press set and the leftmost light illuminates and the setting screen shows 0.0, set to 50 using arrows and hit set again. It still displays the manual setting, but nothing cycles that I can see at all. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I would check the instruction sheet and compare the default values there....maybe you changed something by accident also ..which model TD4 do you have? td4-SSR, SNR?
 
TD4-SSR+SNR is the model number. I did run through and change the settings to align with my TA4s; I'll go back through and reset to factory defaults and report back. Thanks for the assistance.
 
Looks like its all good now; thanks! Looks like I had some settings jacked up: proportional band was off, integral time was something other than 240. Now it seems to be cycling on/off as I would anticipate. I hope the search function can help someone in my shoes...
 
NiteOwlBrewing said:
Looks like its all good now; thanks! Looks like I had some settings jacked up: proportional band was off, integral time was something other than 240. Now it seems to be cycling on/off as I would anticipate. I hope the search function can help someone in my shoes...
Click to expand...

The search function and google was how I learned to wire up my temp probe as I had a TA7 before the the directions were wrong..

One more thing you may or may not care to do.... I was having overshooting issues and another member suggested changing the "I" setting to 1 this has made the autotuning unnecessary and everything keeps temps perfectly regardless of batch size or density...(I did this to all three of my TD4s and ta7)
 
Can I resurrect and hijack a bit? What is the response time for the manual mode on a TD4? If I was watching my boil and thinking, "That looks like it's going to boil over," how long would it take me to reduce to, say, 70% from 100%?

Also, is the cycle length adjustable on the TD4 or just the duty cycle? If it's not, what is the frequency?
 
SilverZero said:
Can I resurrect and hijack a bit? What is the response time for the manual mode on a TD4? If I was watching my boil and thinking, "That looks like it's going to boil over," how long would it take me to reduce to, say, 70% from 100%?

Also, is the cycle length adjustable on the TD4 or just the duty cycle? If it's not, what is the frequency?
Click to expand...
mine is every second... so 60% means its on for 60% of each second.... not sure if its adjustable and dont see why someone would want to since this offers better control over the auber defaults (I was told the cycle time cant be adjusted down as short as the Mypins so that may be an advantage for the mypin I dont really know)
As far as adjusting its quick but I wouldnt every go from 100% down to 70% I use auto mode to reach 208degrees and then set my pid in manual to 75%... if I was experiencing a boil over or something I would just use my selector switch to turn the heat off to the element and adjust it then...
 
augiedoggy said:
The search function and google was how I learned to wire up my temp probe as I had a TA7 before the the directions were wrong..

One more thing you may or may not care to do.... I was having overshooting issues and another member suggested changing the "I" setting to 1 this has made the autotuning unnecessary and everything keeps temps perfectly regardless of batch size or density...(I did this to all three of my TD4s and ta7)
Click to expand...

What are your setting for P and D? What size batches are you brewing with these settings?
 
augiedoggy said:
The search function and google was how I learned to wire up my temp probe as I had a TA7 before the the directions were wrong..

One more thing you may or may not care to do.... I was having overshooting issues and another member suggested changing the "I" setting to 1 this has made the autotuning unnecessary and everything keeps temps perfectly regardless of batch size or density...(I did this to all three of my TD4s and ta7)
Click to expand...

I owe a lot of my build to your facelift post with suggested source of parts, etc.

I just finished, and have the basics working great. I did learn that recirc with the tan pumps during the boil is not a great idea.


Hoping for some info to shortcut my trial and error process, what do you use for settings?
P=?
I=1 from your above post
D=?

Thanks!
 
pablosbrewing said:
I owe a lot of my build to your facelift post with suggested source of parts, etc.

I just finished, and have the basics working great. I did learn that recirc with the tan pumps during the boil is not a great idea.


Hoping for some info to shortcut my trial and error process, what do you use for settings?
P=?
I=1 from your above post
D=?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
what issue are you having with the boil recirc? I recirculate for about 10 minutes through my plate chiller from my boil coil with the tan pump with no issues but I do filter my hops with a hop spider and I have a stainless braid connected to my diptube to filter anything that makes it into my boil.

I will have to check my boil kettle pid settings and report back.
I actually autotuned for my rims and HLT pids since posting in this thread and found that it works better for my rims and hasnt made much difference for my hlt.. I do 5 (6)and 10 (11) gallon brews. mainly because I increased my rims tube element and neeeded to autotune to correct the huge amount of overshooting I was getting once doing this.

I use manual mode on my BK pid after I hit 207 degrees so the settings there arent even important.

I'm glad to see people are getting some benefit from my build BTW :)
 
augiedoggy said:
what issue are you having with the boil recirc?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply. It was a water test - I ran manual wide open on the TD4 until boil, shut off the element, and then left recirc on (no chiller) for at least an hour unattended. It seized up tight by the time I got back to it, and some of the internals were melted when I disassembled. This pump took a hit in shipping, hope that's all it was. I do have a spare so I'll test again later this week.

I'll try autotune in the next test.
 
pablosbrewing said:
Thanks for the quick reply. It was a water test - I ran manual wide open on the TD4 until boil, shut off the element, and then left recirc on (no chiller) for at least an hour unattended. It seized up tight by the time I got back to it, and some of the internals were melted when I disassembled. This pump took a hit in shipping, hope that's all it was. I do have a spare so I'll test again later this week.

I'll try autotune in the next test.
Click to expand...
WOW its melted? That doesnt sound right... Do you have anything like a ballvalve before the pump that could have restricted the intake flow and caused cavitation? I have 6 of these pumps and never had one fail with boiling liquid...
 
augiedoggy said:
WOW its melted? That doesnt sound right... Do you have anything like a ballvalve before the pump that could have restricted the intake flow and caused cavitation? I have 6 of these pumps and never had one fail with boiling liquid...
Click to expand...

I am using the PWM speed control.

I checked the resistance of the motor and found it to be about 1/3 lower than a good one. May have been a nick or thin spot in the motor winding insulation.
 
augiedoggy said:
after holding the "M" button for three seconds and the light comes on you have to hit "set" (yellow button) and THEN enter your % value..example 50% will make the element toggle on and off for 1/2 a second each... keep in mind when you hit the "set" button the number it displays was the current value it was using in pid mode before you entered manual mode...
You need to have the temp probe plugged in and working as well...
Click to expand...

This worked perfectly. Set mine to 75% and it has a nice boil :mug:
 

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