Two-Tier Brewstand Tubing Advice Needed

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KingKegII

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I built a two-tier brewstand. The HLT is on the elevated portion, and I'll use gravity to move the hot water from the HLT to the MLT. I'll use a single pump to move liquid everywhere else. I batch sparge and do 5-gal batches.

My MLT is a 10-gal rubbermaid cooler built per FlyGuy's guide, which means it has a 3/8" valve. My BK has a 1/2" valve. I planned on buying another 10-gal rubbermaid cooler for my HLT. I was thinking I'd like all tubing on my system to be 1/2", and I'd use polysulfone quick-disconnects to plumb everything up.

My questions are:
1. Do I really need 1/2" tubing all the way around, or is it OK to keep the 3/8" line from the MLT going to the inlet of the pump (I suppose I could have a manifold on the pump inlet w/ connections for 3/8 and 1/2")?

2. Any problems w/ regulating the flow thru the pump and into the BK? I can just use the ballvalve on the MLT to regulate, right?

3. Has anyone used the polysulfone QDs, do they work well, do they leak?
 
I built a two-tier brewstand. The HLT is on the elevated portion, and I'll use gravity to move the hot water from the HLT to the MLT. I'll use a single pump to move liquid everywhere else. I batch sparge and do 5-gal batches.

My MLT is a 10-gal rubbermaid cooler built per FlyGuy's guide, which means it has a 3/8" valve. My BK has a 1/2" valve. I planned on buying another 10-gal rubbermaid cooler for my HLT. I was thinking I'd like all tubing on my system to be 1/2", and I'd use polysulfone quick-disconnects to plumb everything up.

My questions are:
1. Do I really need 1/2" tubing all the way around, or is it OK to keep the 3/8" line from the MLT going to the inlet of the pump (I suppose I could have a manifold on the pump inlet w/ connections for 3/8 and 1/2")?

2. Any problems w/ regulating the flow thru the pump and into the BK? I can just use the ballvalve on the MLT to regulate, right?

3. Has anyone used the polysulfone QDs, do they work well, do they leak?

You can use any size tubing you want. The question is, are you willing to live with the flow rate and how patient you are. A March 809 pump is a magnetic drive pump which is designed to have it's output restricted. A ball valve on the output of the pump can be used to regulate the flow. Using a valve on the input to the pump will only cause it to cavitate. I also recommend the brass QD from Mcmaster-Carr. They are inexpensive and are very reliable. I hope that helps.
 
Thanks for the input.

I just thought the polysulfone QDs would be good b/c supposedly you can handle them right after you send hot liquid through.

Has anybody used the poly QDs? Thoughts on 'em?
 
1) It's generally a very bad idea to restrict the flow to a pump on the inlet side (you are going from 3/8" to 1/2" - you will find that the pump loses prime often (it's pushing more out that pulling in). If I were to go back and do it over, I would step up to 1" pipe and use larger pumps. The coolant couplings frequently sited on this board are 3/8" inside. For me this means I get clogs more often than I should.

It is expensive but 1" or maybe 2" if you can afford it - is the way to go.

2) You will need to restrict the flow into the BK using the inlet on the BK not the outlet on the MLT.

3) I use coolant disconnects but I hear good things about the poly's... not heating up, etc.
 
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