Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I tried it side by side some other blonde ales. It is way sweeter than real ale fireman 4 (which has a real dry taste) and still has a strange sweet aroma. I'm going to wait another week to try it but my friends love it as is...
 
sa1126 said:
I tried it side by side some other blonde ales. It is way sweeter than real ale fireman 4 (which has a real dry taste) and still has a strange sweet aroma. I'm going to wait another week to try it but my friends love it as is...
Click to expand...

What was the mash temp?
 
Can someone recommend whether to do a Mashout with this? I have never done one, using 10 gallon round cooler with elevated false bottom which has one gallon of space below the false bottom. Based on some tables I've seen I should be able to handle 21.6 lbs of grain and I'm planning on a 10 gallon batch so 17.25 lbs of grain. I THINK I will have space for the Mashout water. I fly sparge and thinking I am extracting too many sugars with my mashing as my mash takes 30-60 minutes to sparge and for the vast majority of that time my mash is at the mash temp. The sparge water is 170 and is sprinkled on the top so the mash never really gets heated up to Mashout temp until the very end I would think.
 
bd2xu said:
Can someone recommend whether to do a Mashout with this? I have never done one, using 10 gallon round cooler with elevated false bottom which has one gallon of space below the false bottom. Based on some tables I've seen I should be able to handle 21.6 lbs of grain and I'm planning on a 10 gallon batch so 17.25 lbs of grain. I THINK I will have space for the Mashout water. I fly sparge and thinking I am extracting too many sugars with my mashing as my mash takes 30-60 minutes to sparge and for the vast majority of that time my mash is at the mash temp. The sparge water is 170 and is sprinkled on the top so the mash never really gets heated up to Mashout temp until the very end I would think.
Click to expand...

Mashout is not required for this beer. I have never.
 
I have never had a stuck sparge... Knock knock... After about 7 AG batches. Even after doing an IPA with barley, oats, wheat and rye. I was thinking Mashout to stop conversion? If I did one is the sequence:

Mash end
Add Mashout water and stir in
Wait for grain bed to settle (how long?)
Vorlauf
Lauter and fly sparge (I fly sparge)
 
Did my first AG in my apartment with my own equipment. Seemed to go well. Mashed came in a little lower than I wanted at 148ish. Still hit an OG of 1.041.

Looking forward to this. The color looked fantastic and smelled great.
 
I had this all ready to go and then added some marris otter to boast the ABV up to 4.8 and a bit of extra hops to keep it at the same IBUs.

I brewed it last Sunday and it is coming along fine. (I brewed it for a wedding)

I will have to revisit the recipe as is is here at a later date.
 
bd2xu ; for what it is worth I use 10 gallon cooler and have a home made false bottom that uses only about a 1/2 quart or so dead space . I put a nylon paint strainer over the FB and never have a problem with stuck sparges . works well . I mash and then drain off all the wort and then sparge with 170 through a veggie strainer to get the desired amount of wort . I just keep the top of the grain bed mostly wet . I do not know what the difference in this and mash out is but this worked well and the beer tastes great.
 
I did the math and with with my initial infusion plus the boiling water needed for Mashout it is more than ten gallons for this batch so I can't do a Mashout. I could do it with 5 gallon batches
 
MarcusKillion said:
bd2xu ; for what it is worth I use 10 gallon cooler and have a home made false bottom that uses only about a 1/2 quart or so dead space . I put a nylon paint strainer over the FB and never have a problem with stuck sparges . works well . I mash and then drain off all the wort and then sparge with 170 through a veggie strainer to get the desired amount of wort . I just keep the top of the grain bed mostly wet . I do not know what the difference in this and mash out is but this worked well and the beer tastes great.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a batch/fly hybrid approach. Have you ever lautered all, added and stirred, waited to settle, then vorlaufed and lautered again? That would be a batch. If you fly sparge you need to do it concurrently with your lautering and keep the water level above the grain bed. If what you're doing works then cool but I would think you would get better efficiency by adding all your sparge water at once, stir, rest, vorlauf, lauter.
 
In sat here boiling up my first batch of this popular ale! One slight issue though - I only had crystal 40. Damn. I guess it will be darker but will it affect taste much?
 
hio3791 said:
Finally got around to brewing this recipe. Made an 11 gal batch Thursday night. OG was 1.042. Fermented on a US05 slurry at 63F and it's already done. Planning to leave it alone for 14-21 days before kegging.
Click to expand...

14 days later, FG is 1.010 and beer was kegged this morning. Sample tasted great, can't wait for the beer to carbonate. I set the regulator to 30 psi, I'll leave it there for a day or two before dropping to serving pressure. Hopefully, I'll be able to enjoy the beer this weekend.
 
I downloaded the recipe from the beersmith recipe DB. In that Recipe are some Lactic acid, Calcium Chloride, and Epsom Salts.

Can anybody tell me why?

Should leave it out?
 
FaanPret said:
I downloaded the recipe from the beersmith recipe DB. In that Recipe are some Lactic acid, Calcium Chloride, and Epsom Salts.

Can anybody tell me why?

Should leave it out?
Click to expand...

You can most likely ignore the water additions, unless your water is super soft or super hard. If you make good beer with your water as is, I say no need to adjust it
 
Just brewed this recipe last night as my first AG BIAB (10.5g pot) recipe! This was also my first time brewing with "good" water. (half municiple and half distilled wally-world, with salts added per ezwater spreadsheet)

I held the temp at 150 +/-2 degrees F for an hour, then raised the temp to 169 over 12 minutes and held there to mash out for 10 minutes. Then drained and squeezed!

I was a little panicky throughout the process of course because I pulled a gravity sample after mash-out and it was really low since the wort was SO hot! But because of that I ended up squeezing the holy bejeebus outta that darn grain bag until my hands were nearly burned!

And then after coming to a boil I didn't get a hot break really - first time I hadn't seen that. I figured it was probably because I didn't get enough sugar out of the grain....(I read on here that sometimes it won't if you heat gently?)

but I kept on keeping on...

Cooled the wort down and took a sample as I filled the fermenter. 1.042! The particles (hot break?) floating around looked like egg drop soup, but as it settled in my gravity sample I could see clear beautiful beer coming through! Smells great, lovely hop aroma.

Ended up with about 5.3 gallons of wort at 1.042 in the fermenter!

THANKS for the recipe and all the advice on here!!!!!!!! Best one: RDWHAHB

She's bubbling away now, but I'm not very happy with the slow response of rehydrated Safale -05. 14 hours later barely bubbling, very very thin layer of krausen on the surface. Seems like the yeast slurry got buried in hot break at the bottom of the fermenter? IDK...
 
Sounds great and don't worry s-05, it is a stud. I am brewing the exact same recipe 10 gallon batch on Saturday. Using S-05 as well. It has NEVER let me down.
 
Thanks- I'm learning the mantra is often not to worry, and things are usually fine! I was thinking about dry pitching a packet straight onto the wort since the rehydrating didn't work the hottest. How do you normally pitch it and what is the standard reaction? Good luck with your batch!
 
I use US-05 almost exclusively since I mostly brew American style ales and as others have mentioned, this strain is solid. I've seen it take up to 24hrs to get going. I've only rehydrated once, and in my experience, the end result was the same as any other time that I have sprinkled dry. Temperature also plays a factor, the lower the temp, the slower it'll ferment.
 
Peruvian802 said:
I just brewed this for the second time today. I decided to make it even more summery and I dropped in 1/2 oz of Ahtanum hops at flame out. I hope it adds a great citrus scent and flavor.
Click to expand...

I just bottled this batch. It smells great.

It was a little darker than my last batch because I used Munton's Light LME instead of the Breiss Golden Light in my last batch. Given the different malt and the addition of the extra hops, I'm not sure this is still a blonde. What have I brewed?
 
Peruvian802 said:
I just bottled this batch. It smells great.

It was a little darker than my last batch because I used Munton's Light LME instead of the Breiss Golden Light in my last batch. Given the different malt and the addition of the extra hops, I'm not sure this is still a blonde. What have I brewed?
Click to expand...

A blonde ale can be lighter than Coors light. If you have higher IBU's you might be approaching pale ale territory.

I actually think this recipe would be excellent hopped to about 30 IBU's and dry hopped with Citra/Cascade for a refreshing light pale ale.
 
I just checked my latest batch of this.. I had upped the OG in my recipe to 1.049, but overshot and hit 1.055 into the fermenter. This was also my first time using conan yeast, and my FG appears to be 1.002 which means a 7.1% beer.

So much for a nice light lawnmower beer. :drunk: :tank:
 
Hey guys. I brewed this guy up (extract version with steeped carapils) last Saturday, which was 6 days ago and I decided to use some knox gelatin for fining and thought I would share my results. Anyway, since I'm a scientist I have everything well documented, so here is exactly what I did

(1) Brew day June 1st. OG 1.043 (Us-05 yeast)
(2) Primary fermented @ 68F for 4 days until 1.010 FG
(3) Racked to corny and chilled for 24 hours
(4) After 24 hours of chilling, began fining with 1 packet of knox gelatin
-see first image
(5) After 24 hours of fining (today, June 7th) , pulled off 8 oz at a time
-see images 2-4


The point of this post was to show how effected the gelatin fining was. If you compare the first and last image (excuse poor smartphone quality images) you can easily tell that much of cloudyness went away in just 24 hours. I'm sure as it continues to sit in my kegerator it will get even clearer, but I was very surprised at the effectiveness of the gelatin.


So, basically in 6 days I produced an absolutely fantastic brew that is relative clear. I'm sure it will continue to clear up as I chill it and it will taste better every day. Also, It has only been carbing for ~24 hours, so it will obviously taste better after full carb cycle.

Anyway, love the recipe and will be making again in the near future, as I'm sure this one will be gone by the end of next weekend's barbecue I'll try to remember to post another follow-up image after it has cleared a few more days.

Thanks BM!!

Gelatin Fining Cent Blonde.jpg
 
I ended up carbonating at 30 psi for 36 hrs. Being anxious to taste what could be the most popular recipe, at least on this site, I took a sample... then I had to sample it again and then one final time. Still a bit under-carbonated but it tastes delicious! It's a very balanced beer, citrus aroma is very noticeable but this isn't a hoppy beer, just a nice aroma backed by a solid malt bill. The kegs are now at serving pressure and I suspect it'll be fully carbonated in the next week or so. Flavors should have mellowed a bit by then and it should be fantastic, can't wait!!

Thank you for sharing this recipe!!
 
My BM's Bicentennial Blonde didn't turn out as nice as everyone else's....I never could get it to clear up. Plus it looked like I was heading toward an contaminated batch although it was still very drinkable so I bottled it. It is actually very overcarbed in less than a week....

IMG_0577.jpg


IMG_0615.jpg


IMG_0617.jpg
 
Just brewed 5 AG gallons of this bad boy. I'd been working on a recipe that I called 'The Lawnmower' that was similar to this and figured I'd give this one a try to see how they differ. I followed the recipe to a 'T' (except I pitched 05 and I used .25 lb of Crystal 20 instead of .5 lb of Crystal 10) and my OG was 1.042. Looking forward to this one in a month but, before I do, I need to empty a keg :D
 
I'm going to brew this one later in the week. I have an IIPA recipe I have to try first. :)

I don't have any nottingham yeast but WLP001 is my go-to. They sound pretty similar - does anyone have any experience with that substitution?
 
Brewed a 10 gallon AG batch last night. Nailed the OG at 1.039. Great color, high aspirations for this brew!

photo.jpg
 
Hey guys-I'm making a 12.5g batch of this tomorrow in a professional setup (wooh! i lucked out!). Can I let this ferment for three weeks? Or is it super necessary to pull it out early?
 

Similar threads

Zippy123
Feedback on recipe to split mash for two different beers
Replies
2
Views
492
Zippy123
Zippy123
S
Autumn Wheat Ale
Replies
5
Views
1K
kwilson16
kwilson16
PashMaddle
Brew day #2 is done.
Replies
22
Views
1K
lumpher
lumpher
D
First Recipe: 1 Gallon Maris Otter / Goldings SMaSH (Comments, suggestions?)
Replies
6
Views
456
Northern_Brewer
Northern_Brewer
Gadjobrinus
Festbier - first lager back in.
Replies
17
Views
1K
Brooothru
Brooothru

Latest posts

Back
Top