Manifold for the Coleman Extreme

Just a quick question;

could you run a short single shot manifold in the channel of the Coleman extreme cooler? More to the point, would it be efficient?

Tim

MX1 said:

Just a quick question;

could you run a short single shot manifold in the channel of the Coleman extreme cooler? More to the point, would it be efficient?

Tim

Click to expand...

Well, you COULD. Would it be efficient? I'm sure if I said, nah, don't bother, there will be someone out there who has tried it and has gotten good or acceptable results. Is it because you do not have access to something that can sweat the pipes? You MIGHT be able to get away with not doing any of them, but on mine, both ends are fully done, while the 2 legs come off for ease of cleaning (which I actually rarely take a part anyway).

I have the Coleman Xtreme 70 qt. I get 75-85% eff into the boiler.

This is what my manifold looks like...

Is it because you do not have access to something that can sweat the pipes? You MIGHT be able to get away with not doing any of them, but on mine, both ends are fully done, while the 2 legs come off for ease of cleaning (which I actually rarely take a part anyway).

Click to expand...

Not sure what "sweat" means.....
I am sure I could build a full manifold, but I was just asking a question really.
I am all about what is easy and works, a single line manifold would be super easy, but would it work...that is the question.

Tim

Manifold size and configuration is irrelevant if batch sparging. for fly sparging it is best to cover the bottom of the the tun spaced equidistant.

IMHO, that cooler would do well w/ a short (8 - 10 ") 3/4 or 1" braid for batch sparging.

Water heater supply braid.
http://www.watts.com/prod_images/hi-res/default.asp?imgId=602

MX1 said:

I am all about what is easy and works, a single line manifold would be super easy, but would it work...that is the question.

Tim

Click to expand...

Yes a single line manifold is fine for batch sparging. I prefer a stainless braid over copper, but that's just MO.

Doesnt get much easier than a braid...and it works!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/ten-minute-cooler-mash-tun-conversion-125108/

I feel ya on the braid, it is what I use now.
I was thinking that a manifold would not get as beat up...

Tim

Get a heavier braid, oh and also, there is no need to beat the braid like a red headed stepchild.

wilserbrewer said:

Get a heavier braid, oh and also, there is no need to beat the braid like a red headed stepchild.

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Point taken on the loop not being needed for batch sparging.

But, are you saying you would rather use a 12 inch (or whatever size) braid instead of a 12 inch piece of copper pipe? With a heavier grain bill (over 20lbs), do you really think the braid is going to hold up over time compared to a piece of copper?

janzik said:

With a heavier grain bill (over 20lbs), do you really think the braid is going to hold up over time compared to a piece of copper?

Click to expand...

IMHO a heavy type water supply braid is nearly indestructable. Or just go ask Denny, he's somewhere around batch 350 on a little toilet supply braid.

And yes, i prefer a braid over copper in that i believe the braid's run off is cleaner and less likely to stick. The braid is IMO much more porous, and is a better filter than a perforated pipe. Just MO, I realize los of you guys love copper manifolds.

How many generations to plan on passing your mash tun to??

I use a single copper pipe on my 100qt extreme. I cut the slots like everyone else. Workes grat and doesn't move around. I only did this because I use a cordless drill to stir my mash and had the braid get caught in it. Works great.

so, if I made a manifold out of SS pipe would everyone agree that I am the ****....

Tim