Help with this recipe ... Hefe-Weizen clone

Hi to all Friends here...
First let me introduce my self.
I am Antony From Greece.

i Need some help about understanding this recipe (as english is not my birth language)

the recipe says :

Yield: 5 gallons (18.9 L)
Final gravity: 1.011-1.012
SRM 4-5
Original gravity: 1.053-1.054
IBU 10
5.4% alcohol by volume

Crush and steep in ½ gallon (1.9 L) 150°F (65.5°C) water for 20 minutes:

4 oz. (113 g) German Munich malt


Alternate Methods

Mini-mash Method: Mash 2 lb. (.9 kg) German wheat malt, 1.5 lb. (.68 kg) German 2-row lager malt and the specialty grain at 150°F (65.5°C) for 90 minutes. Then follow the extract recipe omitting 2.25 lb. (1 kg) wheat DME at the beginning of the boil.


All-grain Method: Mash 5.25 lb. (2.4 kg) German wheat malt and 4.75 lb. (2.2 kg) Belgian 2-row pale malt with the specialty grain at 150°F (65.5°C) for 90 minutes. Add 2 HBU (33% less than the extract recipe) of bittering hops for 90 minutes of the boil.

Strain the grain water into your brew pot. Sparge the grains with ½ gallon (1.9 L) water at 150°F (65.5°C). Add water to the brew pot for 1.5 gallons (5.7 L) total volume. Bring the water to a boil, remove the pot from the stove, and add:

6 lb. (2.7 kg) wheat DME (55% wheat, 45% barley)
1 oz. (28 g) German Hallertau Hersbrucker @ 3% AA
(3 HBU) (bittering hop)
Add water until total volume in the brew pot is 2.5 gallons (9 L). Boil for 60 minutes, remove pot from the stove, and cool for 15 minutes. Strain the cooled wort into the primary fermenter and add cold water to obtain 5 gallons (18.9 L). When the wort temperature is under 80°F (26.6°C), pitch your yeast.

Click to expand...

1) : we start with the 4 oz. (113 g) German Munich malt (Right?)

2) : Then in above we add the mash 5.25 lb. German wheat malt and 4.75 lb Belgian 2-row pale malt 150°F for 90 minutes.

3) : We Add 2 HBU of bittering hops and boil for 90 minutes

4) : We Train the grain water into your brew pot. Sparge the grains with ½ gallon water at 150°F .

5) : We Add water to the brew pot for 1.5 gallons total volume and Bring the water to a boil, remove the pot from the stove

6) : We add: 6 lb. wheat DME (55% wheat, 45% barley), 1 oz. German Hallertau Hersbrucker @ 3% AA (3 HBU) (bittering hop)

In this step if i want to use allgrain and not Dme , should i convert the dme to All Grain . right ?
Find how lb is 55% or 45% of the total 6lb and them we divide by 0.67 ( DME to grain divide by .67 ) right?

If my thinking is right about that... can i boil this mixture of grain inside a bag ? so avoid Strain the wort ?

7) : We Add water until total volume in the brew pot is 2.5 gallons. Boil for 60 minutes, remove pot from the stove, and cool for 15 minutes. Strain the cooled wort into the primary fermenter and add cold water to obtain 5 gallons . When the wort temperature is under 80°F, pitch your yeast.



Have understand well what recipe says ??
thanks in advance

I'm not up on the DME conversions. I have switched to all grain. I just use an all grain recipe.

Anyone please correct me. I use batch sparge.

1. Main mash, then remove most of the water, but don't really let the air get down into your grain bed. Leave it really wet.(google first runnings)

2. Sprinkle in the first half of your sparge water. I pour my sparge water over a pan lid so it fans out like a lawn sprinkler. This sprinkling helps the grain kind of be a filter for some of the solids. Let it sit for about half the time of your main mash, drain it as before leaving the crushed grain mostly covered by sparge water from air.

3. Sprinkle in your last sparge let t sit for as long as yout first, and then let it all drain out into your boil pot.

Most of the guys add water after sparging to get a good baseline for the rest of the recipe. I don't. I make heavier beer and I am happy with it.

Thanks for the Quick answer

My first try to make a beer was all grain.. and i vote 100% for that..
That is the reason i wanted to convert the dme recipe to All grain.
I wish i could find the recipe to All Grain but i havent find it until now

so all the other description i made of the recipe was right? did i understand it well ?

Try it. Sonds like you thought it through. Keep track of what you do temerature, water amount hopping times, I bet you make som really nice beer even if it's not exactly the same as the DME recipe.

Someone posted this in another thread...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Batch_Sparging
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Fly_sparging

ok... One more time to be sure about the recipe...

First i mash the munich pale, then i add and mash to the same the weater malt & pale malt. We leave it for 90 minutes to the 150f and after that we boil it and add the hops. And after 90 minutes of boiling we strain it...... And we continue as the recipe says. ( the original recipe is in my first post inside quote)

Sorry again asking the same and the same but this recipe is a lot of diferent from the one i made in the past... And if english is not the language you use to speak every day... Mistakes can be made in translation ...

I guess you would have the same problem if you had to read a recipe to Greek hahaha that is why u say ''it is greek to me''

If you are going All Grain (NO LIQUID OR DRY MALT EXTRACT) the munich malt, pale malt, and wheat malt, all get put into the mash at the same time, and are mashed for the same period of time. Most All Grain recipes do not need a 90 minute rest, 60 minutes is fine.
So you crush all your malted grains and mix together. Then add them to your strike water. Strike water is determined by how many litres of water to each 1 kg of malt you will mash.

so the recipe calls for

All-grain Method: Mash 5.25 lb. (2.4 kg) German wheat malt and 4.75 lb. (2.2 kg) Belgian 2-row pale malt with the 10L Munich Malt (113 grams) at 150°F (65.5°C) for 90 minutes.

Malt Bill
2.4 kg german wheat
2.2 kg belgian2 row pale malt
113 grams 10L Munich Malt

Now if you were to mash 3 liters water to 1 kg malt you would need
13.95 litres for mashing 4.65 kg of malt. Let that rest for 60-90 minutes at 65.5C (150*F)

The dry malt that is now wet after dough in will absorb (soak in) near 3.88 litres. You will need to account for that.

So you will have 13.95 L - 3.88 L = 10.07 Litres total wort(liquid)from mash.

Sparge water you need to make up the rest of the batch volume. so you need to know

how much liquid evaporates in one hour of boil time, and how much wort you will leave behind in the mash/lauter tun, and boiler equipment.

Let us say you leave behind 1 litre in the mash/lauter tun, then evaporate 5.5 litres per hour when boiling, then when moving the wort into the fermenter from the boiler you leave another 1.5 litres behind in that kettle.

you must account for these losses with extra sparge water.

you will need 20.44 litres of sparge water/grain wash water

from the mash you should get 10.07 litres first runnings

you will lose..1 litre to mash/lauter tun

20.44 + 10.07 = 30.51 - 1 = 29.51 litres of wort goes into the boiler kettle

5.50 litres per hour loss @90 mins = 8.25 litres evaporation loss

29.51 into kettle - 8.25 evaporation loss after boil = 21.26 litres after boil

1.5 litres loss when racking to fermenter

21.26 - 1.5 = 19.76

chilled down 4% shrinkage in volume

19.75 - 4% (.79)= 18.97 final volume

Thank you very much
so i have misunderstood the recipe ( the part of the mash the malts )

you made the recipe for all grain
as a newbie thank you very very much

caslor said:

Thank you very much
so i have misunderstood the recipe ( the part of the mash the malts )

you made the recipe for all grain
as a newbie thank you very very much

Click to expand...

Yes.. When doing all grain brewing, All malts go into the vessel at the same time and stay the whole mash time. You then vorlauf and collect the liquor and rinse through the malted grains with clean water collecting into the boiler. This will extract most of the sugars from the malt.


When brewing using liquid or dry malt extract with specialty grains (Munich Malt, Crystal Malts ect.).

You steep the specialty grains separately in a smaller pan to get the sugars out of them for 30 mins @ 68.5C, then rinse the grains with 76C clean water. You then add just the liquor/runnings to the full batch volume into the boiler at around the same temp(76C). Then you add your LME or DME and bring the whole batch to a boil.

try here to see how to convert extract use to all grain.
http://www.worldsbeer.com/recipes/malt coverstion.htm

..."strain" before you boil. Boil just the wort after you remove it from the grain. If you boil the water with the grain - bad things happen. It will make a VERY different beer.

Your english is prety good.

Do you know anyone else that does allgrain? If you watch it once it really helps.

Thanks again for the tips

No i dont know anyone that does All Grain.... even to make beer...
when i say that i make beer they look me like i am a space rocket engineer

i know 4-5 people from one forum that make also beer but they produce it from beer kits...

i think that with these methods you loose all the fun of making beer..

All Grain is the way for me

here is a link with my previous try to make all grain beer.. it was my very first try and was nice to make beer

http://forum.beer.gr/showthread.php?t=299&highlight=caslor

all the post is in Greek but you can see the pictures from all process.

OLDBREW said:

So you will have 13.95 L - 3.88 L = 10.07 Litres total wort(liquid)from mash.

Sparge water you need to make up the rest of the batch volume. so you need to know

how much liquid evaporates in one hour of boil time, and how much wort you will leave behind in the mash/lauter tun, and boiler equipment.

Let us say you leave behind 1 litre in the mash/lauter tun, then evaporate 5.5 litres per hour when boiling, then when moving the wort into the fermenter from the boiler you leave another 1.5 litres behind in that kettle.

you must account for these losses with extra sparge water.

you will need 20.44 litres of sparge water/grain wash water

from the mash you should get 10.07 litres first runnings

you will lose..1 litre to mash/lauter tun

20.44 + 10.07 = 30.51 - 1 = 29.51 litres of wort goes into the boiler kettle

Click to expand...

What if i use only 15 liters for spargin/grain wash water? and use the rest 5liters after the boiling... add them to cool it a little more and give some oxygen to my wort for the fermentation ??

something else... about Mash Thickness


mashing 3 liters water to 1 kg malt = 3 mash thickness ? ( i am little confused about this as i was watching the temperature calculators for striking water )

What if i use only 15 liters for spargin/grain wash water? and use the rest 5liters after the boiling... add them to cool it a little more and give some oxygen to my wort for the fermentation ??

Click to expand...

you could do that but you may lose a few points from not having enough rinse water to wash the sugars from the grains during lauter. You can tighten up the mash thickness some but 1.25 to 1.5 qts per pound is a good ratio for mashing

mashing 3 liters water to 1 kg malt = 3 mash thickness ? ( i am little confused about this as i was watching the temperature calculators for striking water )

Click to expand...

Yes it is 3 litres to 1 kg 3/1 ratio. So you have 13.95 litres total water into the mash of 4.65 kg grain.
If you pre-heat the cooler so you have no thermal mass loss, and your grain temperature is around 20*C, you'd need a temperature of 71.67*C strike water to hit 65.56*C saach. rest temp. Thermal mass of your mash tun and actual grain temperature are the variables.

Thanks clearing it up

So what are you doing to replace the lost oxygen from wort after boiling it ?

sprang it in Fermenter from a high distance is one option i think... make bubbles and replace the lost oxygen that yeast needs..

Just slosh it bac and forth. The wort will absorb oxygen from the air in the head space.

Use the site search and look for aeration.

Yes.. dropping the wort down from a distance and letting it splash will help get some of the oxygen back into the solution. You could use a large spoon or laddle and let the chilled wort splash off of it as it goes into your pail/fermenter. The other would be a wire whisk or mash paddle and beat the wort real well to get as much oxygen as you can back into the wort.

I use pure O2 then beat the wort with a slotted paddle.

Denny Conn uses a drill and a wine degasser whip to put the O2 back into the solution

something like this one on a drill works real well, or you could make something up