Stainless Camlocks review

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Are the flow dynamics camlocks the same as the ones at bargain fittings? I've skimmed through every page and probably missed the answer to my question.
 
limulus said:
Are the flow dynamics camlocks the same as the ones at bargain fittings? I've skimmed through every page and probably missed the answer to my question.
Click to expand...

Yep, and the same as many of the other vendors on this site as well!
 
I find the key rings useful, it helps when disconnecting, and also I hang them up by them to drip dry after sanitizing. As with all equipment though, we work to find our own touch and ways to make things work :)
I did replace all 6 of my hoses with silicone o-rings. The stock gaskets (black buna-N) I used for about a dozen brews.. never noticed any off-flavor but they got quite worn in.
 
I think they meant "stock" gaskets.....but you can usually find "sock" gaskets on ebay for about $30....they're expensive, but it's a 1 time purchase if you take care of it....
 
Did a "dry" run to check all the fittings for leaks.

Bad picture but if you look close you can see a small drop of water where the silicone meets the stainless elbow. This were threaded on without grinding.

Leak.jpg


I took the advice of ScubaSteve and added a white zip tie. Seemed to fix the problem.

Leak_fixed.jpg
 
The problem is that the silicone doesn't bottom out in the valley of the threads. The liquid can thread its way through. If the tubing extended past the threads and hit the flat part of the fitting, it would seal there. I'd rather not have liquid get stuck in the threads though. Hard to clean. If you've got a bench grinder, it makes quick work.
 
bobby_m said:
the problem is that the silicone doesn't bottom out in the valley of the threads. The liquid can thread its way through. If the tubing extended past the threads and hit the flat part of the fitting, it would seal there. I'd rather not have liquid get stuck in the threads though. Hard to clean. if you've got a bench grinder, it makes quick work.
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bobby_m said:
i did mine on a bench grinder and yes, it sucks. I stopped often to let the piece cool down. another way is to mount the fitting into a vice and use a grinder hand held. It's much eaiser to do this with a straight nipple because the elbow part doesn't get in the way. Too bad the street l is a nicer solution.
Click to expand...

:drunk: :D :mug:
 
BrewBeemer said:
Those pictures look rather nasty with that wide of a stretch on the tubing, a failure point looking to happen besides the possble leaking with crap in the root of the threads.
I would remove the threads plus below then at the end of the fitting make the wall thickness rather thin plus radiused preventing any digging in cutting of the tubing when its pulled to the side.
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What are you saying here?
 
Yambor44 said:
:drunk: :D :mug:
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It's just like Jon Stewart when he plays back politicians contradicting themselves :D Bobby's probably right...in the long run it may be easier on the tubing and collect less gunk....but if you don't have a bench grinder you'll probably be okay. I think it's important to put SOMETHING on the tubing to secure it.....once things heat up, the tubing gets soft and one tug could send hot wort spraying. I think zip ties are a little more forgiving on the tubing, don't corrode, and are cheaper than worm clamps.
 
Oh yeah, that would definitely suck. It never ceases to amaze me what a tenacious metal SS is.....mild steel, aluminum, etc. are easy to shape, grind, cut, and drill....SS does none of these things easily....but man does it look good :cool:
 
Bobby, did you grind the elbows completely, or did you leave enough of the threads to act as a barb? I ground mine like the latter, and it took no time at all. Must be cheap Chinese stainless.
 
Yambor44 said:
What are you saying here?
Click to expand...

Sorry nothing to be added or considered from that reply i'll delete it.

Between what I think, fab or machine does not come across at times i'm
not a good instructional instructor.

I did cut threads off a 2" stainless street elbow for my well by chucking the fitting
in a 4 jaw chuck on the lathe, a smooth surface for the hose plus I left a bulb at the end preventing the hose from blowing off. I'm talking 270 plus PSI of head pressure at the piston pump pushing uphill 24/7 with no one around for days. This on the ranch.
 
BrewBeemer said:
Sorry nothing to be added or considered from that reply i'll delete it.

Between what I think, fab or machine does not come across at times i'm
not a good instructional instructor.

I did cut threads off a 2" stainless street elbow for my well by chucking the fitting
in a 4 jaw chuck on the lathe, a smooth surface for the hose plus I left a bulb at the end preventing the hose from blowing off. I'm talking 270 plus PSI of head pressure at the piston pump pushing uphill 24/7 with no one around for days. This on the ranch.
Click to expand...

No sweat. I was just trying to get a picture of what you were referencing. :mug:
 
Reelale said:
Bobby, did you grind the elbows completely, or did you leave enough of the threads to act as a barb? I ground mine like the latter, and it took no time at all. Must be cheap Chinese stainless.
Click to expand...

If you leave any threads at all, won't the wort just thread it's way in there as if the threads were all still there?
 
Yambor44 said:
If you leave any threads at all, won't the wort just thread it's way in there as if the threads were all still there?
Click to expand...

I don't know, that's why I was asking. Yours look good smooth like that. Tubing fit ok?
 
Reelale said:
I don't know, that's why I was asking. Yours look good smooth like that. Tubing fit ok?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was just throwing that out there in case he ever answers you too. ;)

Tubing fits tight still. Easier to get on. I will add a white zip tie as before. I understand what Bobby and Brewbeemer wersaying about the threads and I am glad it was pointed out. Makes sense that you don't won't wort winding it's way thru the threads and then just sitting there until you take the whole thing apart to clean it (which would be a bigger pain in the long run than grinding).

Welp, 1 down and 10 to go!! :p
 
If you have a geared reduction motor or arbor around 200 rpm's installed the street elbow you'll have a means to rotate it then file away, think smart and work easy. A lathe will make most projects and life much easier.
 
I have a pretty powerful pump and my first run (no, I did not grind the thread, just stretched the tubing over the whole deal) the hose leaked on all of the output connections. Some hose clamps fixed this issue, as did dialing back the flow a hair...

Are people grinding the treads to reduce risk of the hose splitting or ripping or just to make a better seal? Don't necessarily want to take everything apart if I don't have to.
 
Randar said:
I have a pretty powerful pump and my first run (no, I did not grind the thread, just stretched the tubing over the whole deal) the hose leaked on all of the output connections. Some hose clamps fixed this issue, as did dialing back the flow a hair...

Are people grinding the treads to reduce risk of the hose splitting or ripping or just to make a better seal? Don't necessarily want to take everything apart if I don't have to.
Click to expand...

I'm in the middle of grinding mine now. Not fun, but probably worth it. The reason for grinding is so the wort doesn't "thread' it's way up to the point of the clamp/wire tie and leave gunkies in there. Although....seems to me a hose barb "may" allow the same to happen.
 
Yambor44 said:
I'm in the middle of grinding mine now. Not fun, but probably worth it. The reason for grinding is so the wort doesn't "thread' it's way up to the point of the clamp/wire tie and leave gunkies in there. Although....seems to me a hose barb "may" allow the same to happen.
Click to expand...

Hose clamp takes care of that by forcing the hose material into the thread cavities. I didn't have any leaks on inlet-side connections without hose clamps.

I am more worried about outlet side blowouts and/or hose splitting from being stretched too tightly. Has anyone had this happen or is this just a baseless fear?
 
Randar said:
Hose clamp takes care of that by forcing the hose material into the thread cavities. I didn't have any leaks on inlet-side connections without hose clamps.

I am more worried about outlet side blowouts and/or hose splitting from being stretched too tightly. Has anyone had this happen or is this just a baseless fear?
Click to expand...

Damn....where were you 5 fittings ago?? :p
 
Received my box-o-camlocks and replacement o-rings from Bargain Fittings today. Next weekend, I'll brew with them. Oh, and I ordered them on Friday and received them today, Monday.
 
Already covered? How well do these rotate when coupled? I love my 90° brass disconnects. If I switch I would go with the high flow barbs to street ell to coupler. Before I drop a buttload of cash, will this work well? Seems like it would be a little "chunky"?
 
wildwest450 said:
Already covered? How well do these rotate when coupled? I love my 90° brass disconnects. If I switch I would go with the high flow barbs to street ell to coupler. Before I drop a buttload of cash, will this work well? Seems like it would be a little "chunky"?
Click to expand...

I will let you know how they fit together when they come in. I won't be using elbows or anything extra, but I have some elbows hanging around so I can test fit them for you if I remember and take a pic. Does sound like they would be pretty heavy.. which may not be a bad thing.
 
wildwest450 said:
Already covered? How well do these rotate when coupled? I love my 90° brass disconnects. If I switch I would go with the high flow barbs to street ell to coupler. Before I drop a buttload of cash, will this work well? Seems like it would be a little "chunky"?
Click to expand...


How much do you need them to rotate? They rotate a little but I would bet that reduces the lifespan of the o-rings.
 
Budzu said:
I will let you know how they fit together when they come in. I won't be using elbows or anything extra, but I have some elbows hanging around so I can test fit them for you if I remember and take a pic. Does sound like they would be pretty heavy.. which may not be a bad thing.
Click to expand...

Cool, I still need to invite myself over sometime and check out your sweet system.
 
Randar said:
How much do you need them to rotate? They rotate a little but I would bet that reduces the lifespan of the o-rings.
Click to expand...

Not like an owl's head, but a little.:D I just like the fact that my 90's now, never put any stress on my tubing, maybe i'm fretting over nothing, and their not necessary. They would be nice for my herms coil, it keeps the tubing short and neat looking.


Like so...

DSCN3110.jpg
 
Ok, but why do you need to rotate them once they are in place? I would presume you could set them up to connect exactly as shown with the 90 degree elbows and have no need for anything other than minor swiveling to adjust them.
 
Randar said:
Ok, but why do you need to rotate them once they are in place? I would presume you could set them up to connect exactly as shown with the 90 degree elbows and have no need for anything other than minor swiveling to adjust them.
Click to expand...

Exactly, I was expecting some swiveling with disassembling/cleaning and what not. I have never used these and didn't know how much they would take.
 

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