Draft Tower Question

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BlakMajix

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I'm completely new to kegging and just bought everything I thought I needed. I bought a Sanyo 4912 an plan to convert it to a keggerator. However, when I got the draft tower (beveragefactory.com), it has connectors on the ends that don't fit anything on my kegging system. I've done some searching around and from what I can tell these connectors are for commercial kegs (I have cornies).

My question is, do I need to get new quick disconnects for my tower and then just cut off the fittings that came with the tower lines? I'm just looking for some confirmation that this is the right thing to do before I start cutting things up and order new parts :)

Thanks for the help!!!
 
sounds like you got a Sankey tap- Id cut it off if you cant remove it otherwise, but leave some lenght to the sankey so you could use it in the future if needbe
 
Spyk'd,

When you say 1/4" threaded cornie couplers, do you mean this: #K011 Ball Disc 1/4 MFL Liq from Northern Brewer? I then match that up with a barbed swivel nut? I'm assuming this is a better setup than the strait barbed disconnect since it can be more easily disassembled?

Thanks for the help!
 
Yeah, sorry it wasn't more clear. To break it down, you'll need:

(2) #K010 Cornie Gas Connector
(2) #K011 Cornie Liquid Connector
(4) #K123 Swivel Nut
(2) #K027 Tail Piece Connector
(1) #K117 Sanke Coupler

This setup will allow you to switch out a Cornie disconnect setup with a Sanke coupler so you can use a 1/6" barrel commercial keg along with one Cornie keg. (no, two 1/6"'s won't work)

Technically, you could use barbs for one line and the threaded for the other, but I like the versatility of this setup and is makes cleaning your lines easier as well.


Hope this clears it up!

:mug:
 
That helps allot Spyk'd. Thanks a bunch.

I got this setup from Midwest: Brew Logic Dual Tap Draft System

It comes with a dual-regulator and gas disconnects so I'm assuming I won't need the gas connectors or 2 of the tail piece connectors correct?

Also, the sanke coupler is optional unless I want to use sanke kegs right? I'm not currently looking to use sanke's but I definitely like the idea of having my options open in case I do.

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to make sure I'm in the know; especially before I place orders for more equipment. I'm sure once I get everything set up it will make more sense. Right now I'm going through allot of "what's that thing do?" lol.

I appreciate all the help. :D
 
homebrewer_99 said:
I just cut mine off right at the edge of the metal...;)

2 Questions:

1. Do most "sanke setup" to "corny setup" conversions involve cutting metal?

2. Can anyone point me in the direction of a simple, step-by-step tutorial for how to go from a sanke setup to a corny setup?

I've seen the sanke-corny conversion kits on kegconnection.com, but I can't say that I understand how the process works. Is there a thread or a link that goes over it in detail?

The reason that I ask is because I live in DC and there's always cheap sanke kegerators (~$300) on Craiglist. I was hoping to buy one of those, add a dual faucet tower ($~125) and two cornies and walk away spending ~$550.

I'm debating whether or not I should the following:

A) the conversion route with a cheap kegerator on craiglist ($550?)
B) the sanyo 4912 conversion for a dual faucet (price estimate?)
C) buying one for $695 (tax and shipping included) on keg-connection that is dual faucet, brand new, and works out of the box
 

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