Mash calculator question

I should be getting my AHS Christmas Ale mini mash any day now and I can't wait. I was thinking that this would be a good time to get on one of the mash calculator web sites. I've looked at them before and had little idea as to how to even begin. Any tutorials would be helpful.

Thanks

There is nothing to really calculate that is difficult but why not download Beersmith and try that. Grains that you are going to mini-mash times 1.25 will give you the strike water volume. If you use 166F for the strike water into a preheated vessel you should be at or very near mash temperature when grains are added and well mixed. I see you have 95 posts so you must have a fairly good understanding by now?

Beersmith, promash, and a couple of others have a free 30 day trial.

I like this one.

Green Bay Rackers--Mash Calculators

What do you need help with?

I just got my AHS Special Holiday Ale Mini Mash kit! Now in the directions it mentions using 2 1/2 gallons of strike water. Other posts I've read, including WBC, mentions 1.25 gallons. What's the difference? Should I use 1.25? The temps are all given (initial strike water temp at 160 and maintain at 155 for 45 min. and sparge with 1 quart per 2 lbs. of grain at 170). All this makes sense to me.

The method they use (using a large steeping bag) also seems easy enough. However, I was thinking about using the method described in the BYO article Counter Top Partial Mashing, where he uses a 2 or 3 gallon cooler. I was thinking that this method would give me a better feeling for a true all grain method. Any real difference?

Oh, and WBC, thanks for the vote of confidence! I still have a LOT of questions, though.

OK, after reading the BYO article more closely, I noticed they are steeping the grains in a nylon bag also, but in an insulated cooler for heat retention. I get it now. I'm still wondering about the difference between the 2.5 gallons and the 1.25 gallons of initial water.

Also, I know this is a total noob question, but when calculaing the grain weight, you include ALL the grain provided, base and specialty, correct? The recipe includes 3/4 lb. of Crystal 60L, 1/8 lb. Chocolate, and 2.5 lbs. 2-Row.

Blackhawkbrew said:

OK, after reading the BYO article more closely, I noticed they are steeping the grains in a nylon bag also, but in an insulated cooler for heat retention. I get it now. I'm still wondering about the difference between the 2.5 gallons and the 1.25 gallons of initial water.

Also, I know this is a total noob question, but when calculaing the grain weight, you include ALL the grain provided, base and specialty, correct? The recipe includes 3/4 lb. of Crystal 60L, 1/8 lb. Chocolate, and 2.5 lbs. 2-Row.

Click to expand...

Yes, you add all the grains together, and calculate the strike water on that.

I'm guessing that the reason your kit has more water at the beginning is because they don't instruct you to sparge, and I bet they have 2.5 gallons as the boil volume.

You can use 1.25- 1.5 quarts per pound of grain, and then sparge with up to .5 gallons per pound, until you reach your boil volume.

Yes, put all the grains in the mini mash.

The difference in pounds per gallon is the concentration of the enzymes. A looser mash takes somewhat longer to mash (convert starches to sugar). 1.25 quarts per pound is the standard concentration but you can go up to 2 quarts with not too much difference in conversion. Preheat your mash-tun if using a cooler so you can hit your mash temperature right on. I think they are using a lot of water to keep the grains loose in the bag. You can't go too wrong by following their instructions. I prefer using a cooler for the mash-tun myself.

If you have not looked here then you should.

After reading all the responses, thanks by the way, I've calculated that, with 3.375 pounds of grain, I will need 4.22 quarts of strike water, right? Do I preheat the cooler with the strike water? I was thinking of bringing the water to about 160 degrees and putting it into the cooler to preheat it then add the grain bag slowly. The instructions call for a 45 minute soak. As per the BYO article, I was then going to recirculate a couple of pints and then start my first run off. After collecting the first run off I will add 170 degree sparge water to the same level in the cooler as the strike water was, which should be a bit less because of grain absorbsion, and let it sit for about 5 minutes. The second run off will be collected and the boil will start as usual.

Does this sound remotely correct

Thanks