Brewme
Well-Known Member
Does anyone brew like the Aussies with one vessel for both the MT and kettle. They called this method Brew in a Bag.
Yep - done it loads and it works very well. I'd be very interested to see a side-by-side comparison of BIAB and a standard mash tun, to see what noticeable differences there are, if any.Does anyone brew like the Aussies with one vessel for both the MT and kettle. They called this method Brew in a Bag.
My efficiency was damn close to what I get batch sparging (83-84+%)
This is partly b/c of the thin mash which enables you to convert more of the starches in the malt. That offsets the lower extraction rate that you have in the lauter. You basically have a no-sparge when you brew in a bag.
Kai
You can do a sparge still still with BIAB.
What I've done is when I remove the bag from the kettle, I leave it draining in my primary bucket. I then pour sparge-water onto the bag (still in the primary). I then transfer the bag to my secondary bucket, and pour the liquid at the bottom of my primary back into the kettle. I did that three times for the 10.5% Belgian I made. The OG of the third lot of sparge-water was 1.030, so there was still some sugar to be had from all that grain.How are you sparging with BiaB? If you only have one vessel? Just wondering...
What I've done is when I remove the bag from the kettle, I leave it draining in my primary bucket. I then pour sparge-water onto the bag (still in the primary). I then transfer the bag to my secondary bucket, and pour the liquid at the bottom of my primary back into the kettle.
On the stove-top. It's not a procedure I've seen listed as part of BIAB, but it uses kit I have lying around and gets some extra efficiency, so it works well enough.So much for 1 vessel brewing I suppose... Where do you heat the sparge water?
All excellent points Kai - thanks for your thoughts.You may want to use a separate bucket for sparging the bag. Unboiled wort is full of bacteria and wild yeast and I would keep that out of anything that you want to ferment in. Even if you sanitize later. It is always good practice to keep the tools for the cold and hot side of brewing separate.
As for sparging the bag you should not just pour water over it. Just submerge it in another pot/vessel that holds the sparge water and mix the grains thoroughly. Then drain the bag again. Basically batch sparging in a bag. Just pouring the sparge water over the bag will lead to uneven extraction. Im inclined that the sparge water doesnt even have to be hot and that you should be able to get away with cold brewing water in a bucket. Mainly b/c one of the advantages of BIAB is eliminating the need for another pot to heat the sparge water in. Sparging with cold water should make for a longer lauter -> boil time though.
As for sparging the bag you should not just pour water over it. Just submerge it in another pot/vessel that holds the sparge water and mix the grains thoroughly. Then drain the bag again. Basically batch sparging in a bag. Just pouring the sparge water over the bag will lead to uneven extraction. I’m inclined that the sparge water doesn’t even have to be hot and that you should be able to get away with cold brewing water in a bucket. Mainly b/c one of the advantages of BIAB is eliminating the need for another pot to heat the sparge water in. Sparging with cold water should make for a longer lauter -> boil time though.
Kai
This would also eliminate the concern of the Liquid to Grain ratio with this BIAB method.
I'm not really at all knowledgeable about the BIAB technique (though I'm thinking of trying it soon), but my understanding was that some people were concerned that the thin mash would denature the B-amylase too quickly and lead to a more dextrinous wort. (though from what I've heard, the empirical evidence contradicts this)What concern exists regarding the liquid to grain ratio?
Kai
I'm not really at all knowledgeable about the BIAB technique (though I'm thinking of trying it soon), but my understanding was that some people were concerned that the thin mash would denature the B-amylase too quickly and lead to a more dextrinous wort. (though from what I've heard, the empirical evidence contradicts this)
ahh, thanks for the info!Those brewers are basing their concern on misinterpreted or outdated information found in home brewing textbooks. Fact is that b-amylase is denatured more quickly in thin mashes. But it is also fact that conversion happens quicker in thin mashes and as a result b-amylase isnt needed for that long anyway. Both effects seem to compensate each other and as a result mash thickness has little effect on fermentablility. This is my experience and also what is written in most brewing texts.
Kai
so does that mean that one has to be more precise with hitting mash temps right away with a big thin mash?
And also what I've been saying since late last year that the Aussie homebrewers are ahead of us in a lot of ways thanks to prohibition in the states kinda slowing stuff down..
Any potential problems with this?
I think I heard on the BN that it is not a good idea for seal hot liquid. I can't remember which show (from 2007), but the guest was saying nasties can form that will actually harm you. If the Aussies do this all the time, maybe this guy was wrong but I do remember the concern was brought up.
What sort of cube are we talking here?
does it have to be a cube?
Joking aside. This is the first time I read about this. Before I thought that this no chill meant leaving the wort in the kettle and letting it cool there. The only concern I would have with prolonged storage in the cube is botulism. Boiling doesn't kill its spores (only pressure canning does) and it thrives in O2 free environments. While the pH of beer is too low for it to grow it can grow in wort where the pH is higher.
Has that concern be discussed before?
Kai
I presume that any worries about DMS are alleviated in the boil? So sealing up hot wort wont be an issue there?
A handful of people die each year from food borne botulism. Almost always from eating improperly home-canned food. This cube thing is certainly improper home canning.
Now, there will probably be no botulin toxin in these beers. The problem is, that on the off chance that there is, you find out by dying.
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