Liquid leaks or exhaust leaks? Either way some silicon seal would probably fix it.
Once that is done, drop your 2x4 rectangular frame onto the hood. At this point you can work in your J-Channel between the FRP and 2x4's to catch condensation.
I like the design. What do you mean by "drop the rectangular frame onto the hood"?
How is the rectangle joined to the rest of the assembly? Just screwed to the end pieces?
Exactly. It's not a very good picture but if you look at the last pic of my first post, I think you can see where it's screwed in.
Ah yes, I see that now. So the FRP isn't attached to the frame on the front and back? No issues with stability?
Great build! I am in planning stages of vent hoods and this might be the one I go with! Does anyone know how well FRP takes painting? Like the picture with the wood frame stained the same as brewstand, but would prefer black instead of white surround. Im guessing some spray paint made for plastic would work.
What are you guys using to cut the FRP board? Jigsaw seems a little too rough of a cut?
For the straight cuts, I used a utility knife to score it good, then snapped it, just like cutting drywall. Edges aren't perfectly smooth, but clean up well with some light sanding. For the hole, I used a jigsaw with a finish wood blade.
For the straight cuts, I used a utility knife to score it good, then snapped it, just like cutting drywall. Edges aren't perfectly smooth, but clean up well with some light sanding. For the hole, I used a jigsaw with a finish wood blade.
I am fairly close to my water gas water heater. It has a vent that goes out the top and vents out, I would assume on the roof somewhere. Do you think it would be ok to tap into that pipe for this hood?
NO!
Many reasons, but short answer no, do not modify an existing chimney to vent your brewery. You want to be sure that water heater exhaust stack properly vents the combustion gases safely out of the house, do not tamper with it.
It could be very dangerous.
how is the fan housing actually attached to the vent hood. Can't make it out in the pictures.
thanks for the pics Dolomieu. So you have the fan housing thru the hole in the plywood end of the hood and not attached other than with caulking? The hole I cut for the fan is slightly too large so it isn't a friction fit even.
Your pics are kinda dark (sorry for being picky) so I can't really see how you attached the fan housing to the 2x4 wood structure. The metal brackets supplied with my Vortex fan are too long for the hood that I built. I guess I need to modify them to work.
Found these. Maybe they will help a bit more than the others. There are a couple more bit it was being a pita to upload for some reason.
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Any chance in a million you can reattach the pictures? Specifically the measurements? I can no longer open them.I'll post some pictures later tonight of my finished hood.
Costs are approximate:
$32 - FRP
$ 5 - Lath screws
$12 - 2x4's
$14 - Plywood half-sheet
$12 - Vinyl J-Channel
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$76
Cut two plywood end caps that are half-circles with a 15.25" radius. This dimension allows the 4' end of the FRP sheet to be fully utilized.
Cut your FRP pieces to match your end caps. I screwed rectangular pieces of FRP to the plywood end caps then routered around the edges to get the FRP lined up with the plywood as closely as possible. Probably best to cut your duct hole in one end cap before attaching FRP, then jigsaw or router out FRP in hole.
Your larger piece of FRP should be 66.5" (96" - 30.5") long by 48" wide. With someone assisting start at bottom of your half-circle plywood end cap and screw the 48" side of the FRP into it every 6 inches or so.
Once that is done, drop your 2x4 rectangular frame onto the hood. At this point you can work in your J-Channel between the FRP and 2x4's to catch condensation.
I've not determined yet how I'm going to seal the J-Channel mitered joints, so any suggestions would be great.
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