Bubbles stopped and head died down...

So at about the 4 day mark the bubbles stopped coming and the head that was growing died down to nothing. Am I still fermenting? Is there a way I can easily check?

Use a hydrometer. It's the only surefire way to know when fermentation has ceased. Once you get the same readings 3 days in a row, you're there. Ignore the bubbles, they sometimes lie.

The majority of it is probably over but still is doing its thing for the next 2-4 weeks.You cant see it but its not over when the hydrometer says it is- it needs to condition too,not just in the bottle.
You probably will have a ring around the top and yeast will flocculate and build up a half an inch or more on the bottem-its eating then it has to eat its crap.to make yummy beer.

okay, I don't mind letting is sit there I'm just worried that if it did stop 4 days in that there might be something I can do to save it instead of waiting 2 weeks to find that out.

You could bottle at 2 weeks but you may have to wait more than 3 weeks in the bottle for them to taste real good.I find it better to primary 3-4 weeks then check bottels in 2 weeks assuming 70 degree temps in the bottle.Another week in primary is going to condition it faster as opposed to botteling it early then having to wait for the taste to get right.
The volume of beer on the yeast cake in primary will conditon it faster opposed to the small amout that is in the bottle.
The time frame is sometimes random, yeast do what they want to do- whether its quick enough for you or not.

Make sure your airlock is filled to the correct level... Are you using a one piece, or three piece airlock? I've not had a brew stop ALL airlock activity after just 4 days. It slows after a week, or so (depends on the brew and temperatures)... Make sure the brew is within the yeasts temperature range.

I'm also going for 3-4 week primary fermentation, before bottling (longer for higher OG brews)... I'm not even taking a hydrometer reading until after the 2 week mark. I would suggest planning for a brew to take ~4 weeks from when you start it until it's ready for bottles. Some could be done sooner, others will need longer.

It's cold, I'm waiting for my heater so it's been sitting at around 62-63 since conception. Could this stop/slow the fermentation?

detz said:

It's cold, I'm waiting for my heater so it's been sitting at around 62-63 since conception. Could this stop/slow the fermentation?

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Depends, completely, on what yeast you used. I don't think it will kill the yeast, if anything it will make them slow down, or go to sleep until things warm up a little...

This time of year, I'm using yeast that can handle the cooler temperatures in my 'brewery' a.k.a. the kitchen... It can get down to the lower 60's there, or up to about 70-72F... So having a yeast that doesn't like the lower end of the scale, doesn't work [for me] right now.

This is a time when a fermentation chamber would be helpful (I'm planning on getting/making one before spring is too far onto us). With both cooling, and warming, elements in it, that will keep it at the range you want for the yeast...

BTW, just noticed that you're only a few towns over from me... Nice...

Conception. I like that.Yeast are like newborns but sucking on grainsugar teats.ha ha.
your good as long as you dont go below the realm of temps,of what yeast you used?Make shure thats the lowest though because they could become dormant. But if that is the lowest thats perfect. It will go slower.But in my opinion probably taste better.I pitched too high then kept it at 67 but now know not to pitch above 70 and keep it at the mid low end, depending on the flavor you want to get from it. If i had pitched my first brew at 15 degrees lower i would probably have a completely different beer.

detz said:

It's cold, I'm waiting for my heater so it's been sitting at around 62-63 since conception.

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So ... tell me about this conception method of beer brewing ... SWMBO might be interested.

PVH said:

So ... tell me about this conception method of beer brewing ... SWMBO might be interested.

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I think it involved Isaac Hayes, so it's no more... Although, an alternative could be implemented with Barry White songs (damn, he's gone too)...

As long as you don't try making a cross between a pig and elephant brew...

No idea on the yeast, it was dry and came from this kit: http://www.brewersbestkits.com/pdf/1006 English Pale Ale.pdf

detz said:

So at about the 4 day mark the bubbles stopped coming and the head that was growing died down to nothing. Am I still fermenting? Is there a way I can easily check?

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That head is called Kausen. it is a good thing.

4 days is a bit young, check a hydrometer reading for three days. has it hit your target (or really close)? two weeks would be a minimum. longer it sits, the more the yeast will clean up any off flavors that might arise.

colder climate would make it ferment a little slow. if you are worried about a stall, i would GENTLY swirl the fermenter to raise the yeast cake. that should do the trick to jump kick the yeast. let it settle afterwards and be patient

detz said:

No idea on the yeast, it was dry and came from this kit: http://www.brewersbestkits.com/pdf/1006 English Pale Ale.pdf

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Wow, talk about using really dated methods (for the fermenting part at least) and not having key information... Where did you get the kit? I would call them up to find out what yeast they sold you, and what it's temperature range is.

Personally, I've yet to use dry yeast for any beer. I've been using the Wyeast Activator packs, researching (ahead of time, online) what the yeast characteristics, and temperature range is, before selecting it.

Conventional wisdom is to allow brews to remain in primary for 2-4 weeks before bottling/kegging, longer for higher gravity (OG) brews. For something with a target OG of 1.042-1.046, 3-4 weeks is good/safe...

Without knowing what yeast they sold you, however, there's no way to know if you're still within it's happy range. You could be at the low end of the range (nothing wrong with that)... Or it could just be a strain that shows more activity for the first week, or so, then slows down (visibly, but is still working away)... You should make sure the airlock is filled to the proper level (or range) and wait for activity. Typically, even when it's slow, you'll still see some movement. It might take 5+ minutes between airlock burps, but it will be there.

Still, I wouldn't worry about not SEEING activity. Let it run for the already mentioned weeks, and then take another hydrometer reading and taste it. If you to that after 2 weeks, then 3 weeks, then 4 weeks, you should see a progression where it's getting better with time.

I can't get over how little real info is on that recipe you linked to... Not even telling what hops were included.

golddiggie,

i am not suprised with the amount of info. i have used BB before and they have horrible instructions.

Hockeyhunter99,

It's like they want people to make poor beer or something... Or make it so that if they do make something good, they have zero records of what was in it for the next time. Or if they want to change the hops, they have no idea what was in the kit.

I'm glad that I'm not using kits anymore (used kits for my first two batches, with 10x more useful info than on the BB sheet). My third batch (my last full extract brew) was a modified kit... After that, I've been either going partial mash, or all grain, and not using kits...

Have to wonder how they can get away with a name like 'brewers best' with things like that...

BTW, detz, PM me a way to email you and I'll let you know when I'm brewing next...

they brew faster so you buy more with mediocre results. personally i go through Northern for my kits or talk with the LHBS with an idea of what i want for an outcome. i learned early on that most instructions should be used as TP only.

look up Northern Brewer instructions. they tell you straight out, what you have when to add it and, most importantly, final product will take 6 weeks from boil to bottle to beerstein.