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I'm taking bleme's advice and telling everyone it's a Black IPA and was all along. No one will know the difference.... And it gives me a reason to tell SWMBO I need to brew another batch.
 
Excited to join the one gal club, even if mainly to test recipes between my standard 5 gal batches. :)
 
If I want to convert a 2 gallon water cooler to use ash a mash tun what would I use at bottom I'm sure I won't find a false bottom that small.....would I I use a bazooka screen....what do you guys suggest using
 
If I want to convert a 2 gallon water cooler to use ash a mash tun what would I use at bottom I'm sure I won't find a false bottom that small.....would I I use a bazooka screen....what do you guys suggest using


I've seen some people use a bag, for a hybrid lauter/BIAB setup... The bag plays the same role as the false bottom or screen, but makes it easier to clean the spent grains out, IMO
 
Rave808 - There's a picture on here of a CPVC manifold, but if it were me I'd just double line the cooler with a couple HD paintstrainer bags. That's what I do with my 5gal cooler, works great and makes cleanup a snap.

Got a chance to use the new PET carboy's from Morebeer tonight. I like 'em, real easy to work with and they're so light! I think tonight was the first time in a long time that everything went (nearly) perfect with the brew day. Still screwed up and sparged to fast so my Eff was lower than I wanted. First running were awesome, second was a flop and that's what killed me.

Gonna mash in at 1.5qt next time and up my sparge temp to 180. Need to figure out a good, slow rate for sparging.
 
On my third brew... this one is a Brooklyn Bruxelles Blonde mix...

I'm doing the BIAB technique on this one... and so far... I think this is the way I'm going to continue brewing... so easy.. so clean... nice.

Thirty minutes left on the boil.
 
I have a brooklyn chestnut brown kit so I can do biab method with that and skip steps they suggest in there directions like sparging? I'm new to all grain so please excuse my questions just trying to learn
 
I have a brooklyn chestnut brown kit so I can do biab method with that and skip steps they suggest in there directions like sparging? I'm new to all grain so please excuse my questions just trying to learn

Yes....

I picked up a two pack of 5 gallon paint strainer bags from Home depot and a two back of 1 gallon bags. I placed my hops into the smaller bags, clipped to the side of the kettle during the boil.

The lautering step is basically the sparge. Everything else is almost the same.. BUT you only have to use one kettle the entire time.. which is nice.
 
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One other thing how much grain is needed for 1 gallon batch and would I start out with 1.25 gallons of water to allow for boil off?or would I add extra water once wort is in fermenter to bring volume up to 1 gallon?
 
Rave88. In most cases 3:1 (water:grist) ratio is sufficient. All you have to do, is just to scale down 5gal batch recipe. Here comes awesome writeup posted yesterday www.homebrewtalk.com/entries/A-Practial-Method-for-Grist-Formulation-and-Scaling.html. Won't hurt also to bump up base malt for an exra 10% (efficiency is slight lower in thin mashes). From those values calculate water needed.
To be sure that all is ok (roughly same OG , ibu, srm as with original recipe), run your numbers through some brewing software, just be safe than sorry :)

As for boiloff your results may vary. After few batches you'll know your rate. Just measure it with very sophisticated, scientific device : a stick, spoon etc with marked quarts/galons (diy) :D

Sent from my Galaxy, far, far away.
 
Here is an email BBS sent me when I asked them for the numbers of Everyday IPA:

"So glad to hear that you are loving our book! If you want to let us know which beers you are planning to make, we can provide you with original and target final gravities. You mentioned our Everyday IPA, here are target gravities:
original gravity 1.066 and terminal gravity 1.017.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

Happy Brewing!

Erica & Stephen
Brooklyn Brew Shop"

OK, I just ran those values along with BBS book recipe through BeerSmith (mobile). And it seems that BBS recipe formulation assumes efficiency around 75% :)
 
BBS also sent me the numbers for two other beers:


Chocolate Maple Porter
OG - 1.066
FG - 1.017

Simcoe IPA
OG - 1.077
FG - 1.019
 
Just confused on how much water to use with their chestnut brown ale if I do biab to end up with a gallon of wort
 
BBS also sent me the numbers for two other beers:


Chocolate Maple Porter
OG - 1.066
FG - 1.017

Simcoe IPA
OG - 1.077
FG - 1.019

Hmmm that seems to be strange inconsistency :(
OG of CMP is bit higher than BS calculations :( SIPA is @ 72%.

Just confused on how much water to use with their chestnut brown ale if I do biab to end up with a gallon of wort

Try this: www.simplebiabcalculator.com

Sent from my Galaxy, far, far away.
 
Brewed the BBS Belgian Blonde kit this weekend - about 12 hours after pitching yeast looks like below. This morning was even MORE active.

ykyFams.jpg
 
Hi all, just joined HBT after reading the first 300 or so posts on this 1-gallon thread - then I realized there were 1,000+ more! My experience so far with brewing: bought a Mr. Beer off of craigslist and hated it, so then I bought a 1-gallon BBS kit (AG) and liked it. Just found an awesome LHBS (mdhb.com) and scaled down a Belgian ale recipe there (extract and AG).

Here's my question...so I noticed a lot of guys are worried about how much volume boils off. But what I did was boil only a gallon and deliberately chilled a quart of water in the fridge. After brewing, I then tossed the cold quart of water in the 2-gal fermenting bucket and the 3/4 gallon wort (left over after boil) in as well, with the bucket in the ice bath. This cooled it down a lot faster. The LHBS guy says he even uses ice. Is there anything wrong with this? It's like a partial boil of a one-gallon batch...will this significantly affect the taste? I won't know for another few weeks, but seeing if anyone else has done this before.
 
Just confused on how much water to use with their chestnut brown ale if I do biab to end up with a gallon of wort

Boil 2 gallons of water for 60 min then cool it off and measure what you have left. Cook tops/stoves vary too much to give a standard boil off number.
 
Just confused on how much water to use with their chestnut brown ale if I do biab to end up with a gallon of wort

I did BIAB with 1.5 gallons this weekend and came up a bit short and had to top off in the jug with water. I am going to start off with a bit more next time.
 
Completely slipped my mind until tonight, but if you're doing a brown ale (and haven't sparged yet) I saw this thing on Brewing TV called a "Hot Scotchie", so I tried it this weekend with the BBD recipie I got from our recipie section. Oh man was it good. I only snitched 3oz of the first runnings for a small one, but I could easily see a "Scotchie" becoming a new favorite addition to a brew day.

Anyone making a brown is highly encouraged (provided you like scotch) to make a sampler.

Almost makes me want to play around with the thought of putting an ounce or two into the priming bucket on bottling day...
 
Couldn't take it any longer so I pulled the trigger and brewed up my Everyday IPA tonight. I had no idea the mash would smell that delicious. Had a bit of trouble initially keeping it between 144 and 152 but nothing burned or anything and eventually I got it under control

As for the sparge, I really need to get a bigger mesh strainer so that it'll go easier. I timed the hops well and right now it's cooling. As soon as that happens I'll pitch the yeast and set up the blowoff tube. Ill try and post some pictures of the fermentation tomorrow.
 
Couldn't take it any longer so I pulled the trigger and brewed up my Everyday IPA tonight. I had no idea the mash would smell that delicious. Had a bit of trouble initially keeping it between 144 and 152 but nothing burned or anything and eventually I got it under control

As for the sparge, I really need to get a bigger mesh strainer so that it'll go easier. I timed the hops well and right now it's cooling. As soon as that happens I'll pitch the yeast and set up the blowoff tube. Ill try and post some pictures of the fermentation tomorrow.




I'm a new 1-gallon homebrewer myself, 5 batches in and just about to be drinking my first (the warrior double IPA from BBS) for the Super Bowl. I also had to get a new stainless steel strainer since the one I had didn't quite cut it my first brew. I've also adopted a technique that I learned on here for keeping mash temps consistent you could most likely use. I heat my oven up to it's lowest setting, which is 170 on mine, once you get your mash to temp, put the lid on it, put it in the oven and then turn it off. I pull it out to check the temp and stir it real good at 30 min and also turn the oven back on to warm up again (turning off after it's reached temp). The heat is not enough to raise the temp of your mash but doesn't let the heat escape from it like being on a stove top. I doubt that I could point out a beer that was mashed too high, or inconsistently at this point but I'm sure it is better to keep temps steady unless otherwise called for. Just thought I'd share my limited experience after reading your post since I had the same issues.
 
Hey man that's a good tip! I think I will try that next time to stay consistent. One thing that I didn't get to do is check the OG. I forgot to get a test tube for my hydrometer so ill have to check the FG when its done fermenting.
 
I posted this in the recipe/ingredients section, but haven't had any replies, so I thought I'd post it here, too, as I'll be splitting it up into five 1-gallon batches. Any advice or experiences would be appreciated!


My in-laws were nice enough to give me a five gallon stout kit (extract) for Christmas, and I was thinking of brewing it up per the directions (well, modified with what I've learned about "lowest common denominator" directions that come with kits - so maybe it'd be better to say "per the ingredients it came with" instead), and then after primary fermentation is complete, racking it into five different one gallon jugs... With different extra ingredients in each one (or maybe just four, and leave one gal as-is, for comparison).

As part of my research into which ingredients work best, and how much of each to use for one gal of stout, I thought I'd ask any of you for any advice on what has worked for you in the past... Please let me know if you think any of these combos sound like they'd work or not work (and why), and how much of each ingredient (per gallon) has worked for you.

Here's some if the ideas I'm thinking about:

1: Chocolate and cherries. I have some cacao nibs (8 oz natural/unsweetened), and a can of the Oregon cherry purée. Randy Mosher suggested 1-4 lb/gal of cherries (on the BB fruit beer podcast), so was thinking maybe toward the heavier end for a stout?

2: Raspberries and vanilla. Heard of a good rasp. van. porter recipe, and thought that would work well with a stout, too. Have 10 whole vanilla beans to be used (and extract if necessary), but no raspberries yet.

3: Choc and coconut. Also heard of this in a porter; think a stout might be good too. Have unsweetened shredded coconut, and was thinking of toasting some of it in the oven, and then adding with some of the nibs.

4: Mint and choc? Love a peppermint mocha, and was thinking some mint leaves and nibs might work, with peppermint extract as a backup if not enough mint flavor from the leaves.

5: Orange/tangerine and choc? Heard Jamil mention this one in is fruit beer podcast. I love a chocolate orange combo. Was thinking of mixing sweet and bitter orange peel?

6: Mole. James and Steve have a recipe on BBV - was thinking about trying this. Choc, cinnamon, vanilla, and chiles, IIRC.

Sounds like I'll need more nibs! Just about all those have choc in them. On second thought, I think I'll add some Hershey's unsweetened cocoa powder (1/2 lb?) at the end of the boil, since all these have choc in them (except the raspberry/vanilla, but it'd be good with it too)... Then I can add more flavor with the nibs in secondary if needed.

Any suggestions? Thanks!


Just to update my above post - I brewed up the stout kit (with a few changes - added some Maris Otter, chocolate malt, and flaked oats to make a partial mash and turn it from a dry stout into an American/Oatmeal stout hybrid, and almost into Foreign Extra territory), and pitched it with the WLP004 cake from a 2.5 gal dry stout I had just done (one of the reasons I decided to change it from a dry stout - I had just done one!). It fermented strongly and quickly, as one would expect from pitching on a healthy batch of fresh yeast cake. OG planned at 1.056, hit 1.057.

One week later, FG was 1.014 (planned 1.016 - my first two batches of 004 also attenuated better than the listed %). So last night I racked the 5 gallons out of my bucket and into five separate one-gallon jugs. These are the final recipes I decided to use for each:

1. Opted to keep one unchanged, to use as a "control group" in this experiment. Having never brewed this kit (or my changes to it), I wanted to make sure I could possibly assign blame to the base beer if they all turned out undrinkable! So no additions to this gallon.

2. COCONUT CHOCOLATE: 1 oz cacao nibs, 1/2 vanilla bean (split, scraped, and chopped), and 1/4 oz unsweetened shredded coconut, soaked in white rum for one week. Also toasted 3 oz of unsweetened shredded coconut (spread out on cookie sheet at 350 for about 6 min; toasted quicker than I'd thought - glad I kept an eye on it!) and racked onto that.

3. MINT CHOCOLATE: 1 oz cacao nibs, and 1/4 oz fresh mint leaves, chopped and muddled, soaked in vodka for one week.

4. ORANGE CHOCOLATE: 1 oz cacao nibs, and 1/8 oz fresh orange (Navel) zest, soaked in vodka for one week. Added 1/8 oz dried sweet orange peel (from LHBS) and racked onto that.

5. MOLE: 1/2 oz cacao nibs, 1/2 cinnamon stick, 1/2 vanilla bean (split, scraped, and chopped), soaked in vodka for one week. Took one whole dried Ancho chile, cut out the pith and seeds, and rehydrated in boiling water. Chopped that up and put into a muslin bag with some sanitized marbles to weight down, and used sanitized fishing line to suspend that in the gallon jug so I could remove the pepper when the heat is just right (thinking between 3-7 days?).

I put them all back into my ferm chamber at 66 (same temp at which I fermented all three beers with the 004). I'm thinking wait a few days to a week for each and check flavors, and bottle when ready. I wanted to use a bag for all the toasted coconut also, based on many of the posts I've read about using coconut on here... but those gallon jug necks are pretty limiting in size, and that's a lot of coconut. I figure I'll just wrap a bag around my auto-siphon and hope for the best when racking to bottle.

Anyway, thanks for the recipe advice... I'll let y'all know how they turn out later on down the line.
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1390432623.905369.jpg
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1390432645.465354.jpg
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Wow Fats that is some "outside the box" thinking if I ever saw some but it a good way. What are you using to cap those jugs? I'm in San Antonio so we have the exact same apple juice jugs here also and I could use some extra fermentors.
 
18 hours later and the fermentation has started. It's around 68° If the blowoff invades the blowoff tube and the sanitizer water, should I clean the tube and replace with new sanitizer?
 
Couldn't take it any longer so I pulled the trigger and brewed up my Everyday IPA tonight. I had no idea the mash would smell that delicious. Had a bit of trouble initially keeping it between 144 and 152 but nothing burned or anything and eventually I got it under control

As for the sparge, I really need to get a bigger mesh strainer so that it'll go easier. I timed the hops well and right now it's cooling. As soon as that happens I'll pitch the yeast and set up the blowoff tube. Ill try and post some pictures of the fermentation tomorrow.

I'm a new 1-gallon homebrewer myself, 5 batches in and just about to be drinking my first (the warrior double IPA from BBS) for the Super Bowl. I also had to get a new stainless steel strainer since the one I had didn't quite cut it my first brew. I've also adopted a technique that I learned on here for keeping mash temps consistent you could most likely use. I heat my oven up to it's lowest setting, which is 170 on mine, once you get your mash to temp, put the lid on it, put it in the oven and then turn it off. I pull it out to check the temp and stir it real good at 30 min and also turn the oven back on to warm up again (turning off after it's reached temp). The heat is not enough to raise the temp of your mash but doesn't let the heat escape from it like being on a stove top. I doubt that I could point out a beer that was mashed too high, or inconsistently at this point but I'm sure it is better to keep temps steady unless otherwise called for. Just thought I'd share my limited experience after reading your post since I had the same issues.

The oven completely changed my brewing and took it to a new level. Spot on temps. I do a 170 preheat, turn it off, then add the pot. Maybe raises 2 degrees but initial conversion is so quick I don't take a hit to efficiency. Take it out every 15 minutes to stir. 30 minutes in I "preheat" to 170 again as I stir. Moving up to 2.5 gallons but still in search of a 5 gallon pot that will fit.

As for the strainer. I measured the diameter of my two pots (same) and found a deep strainer on amazon that perfectly fits. Holds up to 4 pounds and I line it with a paint strainer bag for the sparge. Very clear runnings. I run it through a few times, same with the sparge. I hit around 75% efficiency

Couldn't find the strainer on amazon but its a lot like this without handles. Lower ring as well to support the wait and squeezing:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I9OF0Y/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Dumb me... I didn't try using the oven since mine didn't go below 170...


Of course... preheat then turn it off.. and watch it help you hold your temp...

You guys are geniuses. :mug:
 
Wow Fats that is some "outside the box" thinking if I ever saw some but it a good way. What are you using to cap those jugs? I'm in San Antonio so we have the exact same apple juice jugs here also and I could use some extra fermentors.


They take a #6 or #6.5 stopper/bung (I think mine are 6.5, iirc), with a standard airlock inserted. They are handy to have around. I use them mainly for cider and mead, but occasionally (like above) for beer, too. The mini auto-siphon fits perfectly for them.
 
Hey man that's a good tip! I think I will try that next time to stay consistent. One thing that I didn't get to do is check the OG. I forgot to get a test tube for my hydrometer so ill have to check the FG when its done fermenting.


Hope it helps you as much as it did me!
I have a hydrometer that I haven't used yet, not sure if I want to risk pouring a sample back in or not, I know I definitely don't want to waste ANY amount from my already small 1 gallon batch. Does anybody have a method they use to test gravity from 1 gallon batches and safely return it?
 
Hope it helps you as much as it did me!
I have a hydrometer that I haven't used yet, not sure if I want to risk pouring a sample back in or not, I know I definitely don't want to waste ANY amount from my already small 1 gallon batch. Does anybody have a method they use to test gravity from 1 gallon batches and safely return it?

I was always told to sanitize the hydrometer and the test tube, but I still would rather not risk it. I feel the same way though.
 
I know I definitely don't want to waste ANY amount from my already small 1 gallon batch. Does anybody have a method they use to test gravity from 1 gallon batches and safely return it?

I would never risk returning a sample back to the beer, even if I sanitized the hydrometer. I'd be worried about infecting it, or oxidizing it as the sample splashed back in.

I use a refractometer for checking the gravity of my my 1-gallon batches, and correct for the presence of alcohol. Although if you're just checking to see if it's done, you don't even have to do the correction. Just verify that it hasn't changed in 3 days, and you're good to go ahead and bottle.
 
Hope it helps you as much as it did me!
I have a hydrometer that I haven't used yet, not sure if I want to risk pouring a sample back in or not, I know I definitely don't want to waste ANY amount from my already small 1 gallon batch. Does anybody have a method they use to test gravity from 1 gallon batches and safely return it?

Before I got my refractometer (which is a cool toy for 1Gal AND AG brewing, let me tell you..), I would use my hydrometer essentially 3 times -

1) After mashing and before I turned on the stove to boil - just sanitize and spin it in the pot to take the measurement.
2) After the boiled wort had cooled - again sanitize and spin in the pot.
3) After the fermented wort had been transferred to my bottling bucket - once more, sanitize and spin.

That gives me my preboil OG (MashEFF), Boil OG, and FG. Plenty enough info to get me in trouble with a calculator.

I know a lot of folks like to take lots of measurements, but I'm in the camp that it's easier to just forget about the mess for 3 weeks and come back to it. I
m not in a hurry that way, less opportunity to introduce things to the wort, and no worries about dealing with sample stealing/returning.

I will say that the 25bucks I spent on the refractometer was worth it from the point that it allows me to take more measurements with less wort loss through out different points in the process. I don't trust it after fermentation starts, though and use it more like a "ballpark" measurement. If I get curious about what's going on, I'll disassemble my bottling wand and use it like a beer thief to steal a couple drops to put in the Rmeter, but it's usually just to see if fermentation is complete (looking for change, not taking an FG measurement).

This is beer. Don't overthink it, Francis. :rockin:

YMMV.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, this place rocks! I like the idea of just taking the measurement at mash/cool time and bottling time but also may have to pick up a refractometer, little more money and effort for from what I understand is a less accurate measurement but I'm not necessarily looking for lab accurate testing just general ideas so I know alcohol content and a little more precision during my brews, thanks again guys!
 
Pouring quietly will likely introduce less O2 than the squirt from your bottling wand. Sanitation is the key, and the law. I've had no issues with return pours.
 
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