Thoughts? Black IPA grain bill

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jlc767

jlc767

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Collaborating with a friend on a Black IPA grain bill. Still new to all-grain brewing, so if something below doesn't make sense, please point it out and help us out. Would like your thoughts on this grain bill and hop schedule.

~10lb grain bill
60 minute boil

Thanks!

Grain Bill (unofficial):

5-lbs US 2-Row
2.5-lbs Marris Otter
0.5-lb Carafa III
0.5-lb Debittered Black (or Black Patent?)

Hop Schedule (unofficial):

Northern @20min - 1oz.
Cascade @45min - 1oz.
Cascade @50min - 2oz.
Cascade @55min - 2oz.
Northern @60min - 1oz.
 
You need more base malt, 10-12 lbs for IPA. I'd add a pound of Munich for body and melanoidins as well. IPA usually has at least a small amount of crystal, I'd probably just go with a half pound.

Your best bet would probably be to start with an IPA recipe and then add some dark malts. Not start with base and dark malts and fill in the body.
 
For an IPA, you need WAYYYYYYY more late hops than you have.

Go with something like...
Northern and Cascade at 0 (1.5 oz each)
Cascade at 5 1-2 oz
Cascade at 10 1-2 oz
Northern/Cascade at 60

Dry hop with 1.5 oz of each (at least).

I try to shoot for about 50% IBUs from bittering addition and the other half from my later additions.
 
jlc767 said:
Hop Schedule (unofficial):

Northern @20min - 1oz.
Cascade @45min - 1oz.
Cascade @50min - 2oz.
Cascade @55min - 2oz.
Northern @60min - 1oz.
Click to expand...

Are those times into the boil, i.e. are you saying @60min as in at the end of the boil? If so, looks great, if not, your additions are backwards. Usually the time listed is remaining boil time for future reference.
 
Hey, guys! Me again! We've updated the grain bill (and hop schedule) a bit. Would like some thoughts. Thank you!

5 gallons

10-lbs. US 2-Row
2.5-lbs Marris Otter
1-lb Munich Malt
0.5-lbs Crystal 60L
0.5-lbs Carafa III

Northern @ 50min - 1oz.
Northern @ 40min - 1oz.
Cascade @ 15min - 1oz.
Cascade @10min - 2oz.
Cascade @ 5min - 2oz.
Northern @ 0min - 1oz.

WYEAST1056

We're getting differing results from various calculators, but this should result in something close to:

OG 1.054
FG 1.017
ABV 6.5%
IBU 53
75% efficiency

Thoughts? Also, thoughts on the necessity of dry-hopping?
 
Any reason you're doing a 50 and 40min add as opposed to just a 60min add?

Dry hopping isn't required, but it's certainly a nice addition to any IPA.
 
Doesn't that factor into setting IBU's? ...about 8 - 10 IBUs per 10min, roughly? Think our IBU's would be too high if we added everything at 60.
 
Have you worked out your efficiency with your all-grain system? If so that's great, but I know your shooting for a 75% efficiency, which might be a little high if your still working out your system. I know I was hitting 60% pretty consistently for my first AG batches. Nothing worse than coming out UNDER your target gravity. You can always add more hops to balance out the OG if you hit higher than anticipated, but its a little tougher to work the other way around. Beersmith will give you a pre-boil estimated OG. This will help determine how close you'll come to the FG, assuming your boil rate is similar to what you input.

I've been wanting to do a black IPA for a while. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
 
yes it effects the IBUs, but its nowhere near 8-10 IBUs per 10mins. just curious because at 40 and 50 you're getting no added flavor or aroma and you're slightly underutilizing the hops. In this case, its only like a 5IBU difference, but IMO there's no point to add hops anywhere between 20 and 60mins.
 
The common thought on boil hops is that anything between 60min and 20min are wasted. Take your 40min additions for example, they are not in long enough to contribute all of their bittering power, and in too long to give flavor and aroma.

You will see most IPAs have a hop schedule like this: 60, 20, 15, 10, 5, 0. Some start at 15, others skip the 10, you will see people use a 2 instead of 0, but you get the point. Heck, nothing says you can't toss in an extra ounce 5 min into chilling.

Also, most dry hop, but nothing says you HAVE to. You can try to crank up the 5 and 0min additions instead.

*EDIT* Well everyone pretty much beat me to it while my boss was yammering in my face....what do you mean surfing HBT isn't in my job description?
 
Thanks for the input. As for dry-hopping, I've only used leaf hops previously. I'm assuming I can just dump pellets into my glass carboy?
 
MonkeyWrench said:
The common thought on boil hops is that anything between 60min and 20min are wasted. Take your 40min additions for example, they are not in long enough to contribute all of their bittering power, and in too long to give flavor and aroma.

You will see most IPAs have a hop schedule like this: 60, 20, 15, 10, 5, 0. Some start at 15, others skip the 10, you will see people use a 2 instead of 0, but you get the point. Heck, nothing says you can't toss in an extra ounce 5 min into chilling.

Also, most dry hop, but nothing says you HAVE to. You can try to crank up the 5 and 0min additions instead.

*EDIT* Well everyone pretty much beat me to it while my boss was yammering in my face....what do you mean surfing HBT isn't in my job description?
Click to expand...

I know this is a little late but this is why brewing is an art as much as a science. There may not be a scientific reason to add hops from 40-20min but if you are trying to make something artistic then you might add them just for the fun of it. Some of us are in it for the artistic side and some for the scientific. Great brewers will balance both.
 

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