Brewing first all-grain (Dead Guy Ale clone)

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

joydivision

Active Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
44
Reaction score
0
Location
Rogers
1. All depends on your water to grist and some other factors. Use an online calculator for strike temp, but know your parameters before going in.

2. I guess I always consider the batch size what goes into the fermenter, not what goes into bottles. In other words, what's left in your pot from the boil at knockout. But nonetheless, you're going for a preboil vol of 6.5 gallons, I'd say a min of 7.5 gallon pot would "work", 8 gallon would be better and I'd always prefer extra room since I hate having to hawk over boil over threats so I'd rather 10 gallon pots.
 
I assumed that since its an ale it could be fermented at room temp. I noticed AFTER i got the ingredients that the recipe has it fermenting at 60 degrees in then at 40-50 in the secondary. I don't have any fridge or fermenter chiller. Will it ruin if it ferments at room temp?
 
Joy Division,
Most people aim for a 5.5 gallon post boil because after siphoning from the primary fermenter, some liquid is left over and that likely accounts for around a half gallon, leaving you will 5 gallons to bottle / keg.

To determine water volumes and temperature, I recommend using www.brewheads.com http://www.brewheads.com/batch.php

It works great. I have always assumed 3 degrees loss temperature for my 10 gallon igloo container mashtun. That assumes I have not prewarmed my igloo with hot water. If you do prewarm your mashtun, you can remove mashtun equipment temp loss anywhere from 0-1 degree.

When you add your initial volume, it will be based on your water to grain ratio or how thick you want the mash to be at. It is common to use the recommend 1.25 quarts per pound of grain. For your recipe, that would be 3.44 gallons of water.

The temp you want the 3.44 gallons at will be dependent on the initial temp of the grains. I assumed grains at 70F and mashtun loss of 3F, that gave me an initial strike temp 164.7F for the 3.44 gallons.

Another big tip for all grain brewing is to calibrate your brew pot using a wooden dowl or stick. After I collect my initial runnings, I know exactly how much more water to add to get to my target pre-boil volume. Because the grains have already absorbed water with the initial mash, any additional water added will come out.

Your fermentation temps for an ale below or near 70 is best. Most people do not have temp controlled units for fermenting. It will improve the quality and consistency of your brews, but it would not be mandatory for this brew IMHO.

Hope this helps!

Kevin
 
Hello joydivision, I'm embarking on my first all-grain brew tomorrow as well. I'm certainly thankful for the additional solicitation of info from other experienced brewers you've provided. I'm so excited for tomorrow I don't think I'll be able to sleep much; at least I know I'll be up late making a detailed schedule for tomorrow, from prep to fermenter.
 
7.5 gallon works, but be ready for stressful first few minutes of the boil. I have a 7.5 gallon pot from a turkey fryer set up and to get 5.5 into the carboy I have to start with about 6.75 gallons, which is damn near the top of the pot. I sit with a spray bottle of cold water in each hand to knock down foam before it boils over. It's not much fun. If you can, go bigger right away, at least 10 gallons. If you already have a 7.5 rest assured you can make it work.
 
7.5 gallon works, but be ready for stressful first few minutes of the boil. I have a 7.5 gallon pot from a turkey fryer set up and to get 5.5 into the carboy I have to start with about 6.75 gallons, which is damn near the top of the pot. I sit with a spray bottle of cold water in each hand to knock down foam before it boils over. It's not much fun. If you can, go bigger right away, at least 10 gallons. If you already have a 7.5 rest assured you can make it work.

Isn't there a product that helps prevent boil overs?
 
Joy Division,
Most people aim for a 5.5 gallon post boil because after siphoning from the primary fermenter, some liquid is left over and that likely accounts for around a half gallon, leaving you will 5 gallons to bottle / keg.

To determine water volumes and temperature, I recommend using www.brewheads.com http://www.brewheads.com/batch.php

It works great. I have always assumed 3 degrees loss temperature for my 10 gallon igloo container mashtun. That assumes I have not prewarmed my igloo with hot water. If you do prewarm your mashtun, you can remove mashtun equipment temp loss anywhere from 0-1 degree.

When you add your initial volume, it will be based on your water to grain ratio or how thick you want the mash to be at. It is common to use the recommend 1.25 quarts per pound of grain. For your recipe, that would be 3.44 gallons of water.

The temp you want the 3.44 gallons at will be dependent on the initial temp of the grains. I assumed grains at 70F and mashtun loss of 3F, that gave me an initial strike temp 164.7F for the 3.44 gallons.

Another big tip for all grain brewing is to calibrate your brew pot using a wooden dowl or stick. After I collect my initial runnings, I know exactly how much more water to add to get to my target pre-boil volume. Because the grains have already absorbed water with the initial mash, any additional water added will come out.

Your fermentation temps for an ale below or near 70 is best. Most people do not have temp controlled units for fermenting. It will improve the quality and consistency of your brews, but it would not be mandatory for this brew IMHO.

Hope this helps!

Kevin

I was under the impression that most mash tun's are preheated since you fill them with water first and then mix in the grain. Am I mistaken?

Do you wait until you have your initial runnings before you sparge (the grain bed would be dry), and then make up the rest of your pre-boil volume with the sparging? I watched a video where a guy did "fly sparging" by constantly keeping the water two inches above the grain until the pot was full.

3.44 gallons is hard to determine, do I have to be exact?

Thanks for the great advice and calculations!
 
Most new all grain brewers batch sparge. You will add your initial water to your unheated mash tun and then add your grain. The cool mash tun and cool grain will both lower your water temp. Again, my 10 gallon igloo accounts for about 3 degrees in temp loss. Your goal is to get the right water to grain ratio and hit your mash temp desired (150f per this recipe, I agree with yooper and I would go higher).

When you batch sparge, you will drain the mash run fully, then add your batch of sparge water. Stir the grains and sparge water and drain to get your wort for the per boil target volume.

Remember to Vorlauf prior to collecting for your brew wort. Vorlauf means to recycle the initial running a so you don't have a bunch of sediment in what you collect. There is quite a bit of sediment in your first running a that you will pour back into the mash tun.

When you get further in your brewing, you might try fly sparging later. Keep it simple for now though and batch sparge.
 
joydivision said:
Isn't there a product that helps prevent boil overs?

There are a few I believe, but I prefer to brew with as few extra things as I can. I'm sure it's all in my head, but it makes me feel like the final product is more pure.
 
I've seen a lot of talk about adding the grains to the strike water around here, which contradicts Palmer's method in How to Brew of adding the strike water to the grain. Is this just an old superstition that is outdated now? I know he talks a lot about hot-side aeration and today that's just a myth. Similar?
 
There might be an advantage to adding water to the grains, but I think it is easier to eliminate dough balls by adding grain to the water as I stir the whole time.
 
kkimmes said:
There might be an advantage to adding water to the grains, but I think it is easier to eliminate dough balls by adding grain to the water as I stir the whole time.

That seems to be the consensus, and that's what I did with help from SWMBO. Sitting outside right now waiting 6.5 gallons of wort to boil in the turkey fryer!
 
Here's a stupid question. When the recipe says add at 90 min then at 10 then at 5 does 90 mean at the very beginning if it's a 90 min boil?
 
Yes. The 90 minute mark is the first minute of a 90 min boil. "At 2 min" means 2 minutes before you turn off the burner.
 
Some notes:

Don't use a glass thermometer again. I checked my sparge water, which was above 200 and busted it. Luckily I realized I have a kettle boiler that tells temperature. I'm not sure how accurate it is.

Have more sparge water ready. I did two sparges Bc I was under my preboil volume after the first sparging.

Otherwise all went well. I didn't notice any unclear color come out after I did my first vorlauft.

Is it bad to have two sparges?

What about a 20 min hiatus between sparge and boil?
 
I accidentally doubled the hops. Also the guy at the home brew store didn't give me Irish moss. Did I ruin it?
 
joydivision said:
I accidentally doubled the hops. Also the guy at the home brew store didn't give me Irish moss. Did I ruin it?

You changed it but didn't ruin it by any means.
Extra hops might make you like it even more.
The Irish moss is just for clarifying and it doesn't affect the flavor.
 
How much above 200 was your water? Another 212 degrees and it should be visibly boiling, yet those thermometers should withstand boiling temps. Hmmm...

That being said, I broke my thermometer yesterday as well as it slipped and dropped into the heating strike water. Thankfully SWMBO was nice enough to visit LHBS for a new one.
 
Is it necessary to put this in a secondary fermenter? Also I had the hardest time siphoning the beer into the fermenter without touching part of the sanitized tube that went into the beer. I hope that doesn't mess it up.
 
Some notes:

Don't use a glass thermometer again. I checked my sparge water, which was above 200 and busted it. Luckily I realized I have a kettle boiler that tells temperature. I'm not sure how accurate it is.

Have more sparge water ready. I did two sparges Bc I was under my preboil volume after the first sparging.

Otherwise all went well. I didn't notice any unclear color come out after I did my first vorlauft.

Is it bad to have two sparges?

What about a 20 min hiatus between sparge and boil?

It's not ideal, but it's not horrible either. The first time you drain the wort, that's your first runnings and that's the highest quality wort you will have. After you sparge and drain, you're getting second runnings - less quality, but not by much and necessary to meet your gravity and efficiency. Third runnings is definitely lower quality as is each subsequent draining.

Is it necessary to put this in a secondary fermenter? Also I had the hardest time siphoning the beer into the fermenter without touching part of the sanitized tube that went into the beer. I hope that doesn't mess it up.


You'll touch things - that's not entirely unavoidable. If you use starsan, soaking your hands for a min might make you feel better. Usually, you can't help but get the foam from star san on your hands and you're probably as sanitary as your equip. Get a clip for your autosiphon to hold it to the side of the bucket if you use buckets.
 
I guess if it's called "first runnings" then more than one is an implied possibility. Most of my wert came from the first runnings. Next time is my pre-boil volume is short would you recommend leaving it that way or getting second runnings like I did?

Also will it hurt the quality if I don't transfer the beer in a secondary fermenter? I thought the secondary was mainly for clearing it up.
 
Back
Top