Cooper's Kits - feedback requested!

I love my Coopers fermentor. The thing is well over 7 gallons in capacity, has a nice screw top lid (perfect size IMO), is somewhat see through so you can see how the krausen is doing... The PET bottles you get with the Coopers kit work just fine (though I did get a blister tightning the caps last time I bottled with them) and are quicker to deal with given their size (740ml).

The pre-hopped canned beer kits are...well...they are lacking IMO. They can make a decent brew but I personally think they are a step below extract brew kits you can get from your LHBS. Lack of control of the ingredients due to the can doesn't help their case. But again...you can make a decent brew with them.


I am very happy my start into world of home brewing was with a Coopers kit. Just a few additions of equipment and it just gets better and better.

Still not bubbling.
I misread my hydrometer too (was reading above the 40 line as 40+ instead of 40-...

1036 last night at 8pm
1034 just now (10am) (~14 hours later)

So I guess it's doing it's (invisible) thing?

Thanks Eves! Hopefully my batch will come out fine. Maybe it's just a secret bubbler and stops when I enter the room?

Still not bubbling?

Well, first of all a non-bubbling airlock is not a clear indication of anything.

Second...One thing to note with the Coopers fermentor is that I always have a hard time properly sealing the lid. You can tighten down the lid as tight as it will go and still there can be a leak somewhere. One way to tell if you have a leak is to put the lid on, put some liquid in the airlock and then squeeze the fermentor just a little bit. When you squeeze the fermentor the water level in the airlock should change. If the fermentor is airtight, or near airtight, the water level should remain in that changed water level for 30+ seconds. If the water level levels off quickly there is a leak somewhere.

For my coopers fementer I like to put some plumbers food grade silicone on the lid's threads where it comes in contact with the fermenter. You can find this stuff in the plumbing dept of hardware/home improvement stores. Also, you can try adjusting the tightness of the lid (a little looser or tighter) and then squeezing the fermentor again. The little adjustment might do the trick.

However, I must re-iterate that a lack of airlock activity means nothing. Let it sit a week and then just the gravity.

Eves said:

Still not bubbling?

Well, first of all a non-bubbling airlock is not a clear indication of anything.

Second...One thing to note with the Coopers fermentor is that I always have a hard time properly sealing the lid. You can tighten down the lid as tight as it will go and still there can be a leak somewhere. One way to tell if you have a leak is to put the lid on, put some liquid in the airlock and then squeeze the fermentor just a little bit. When you squeeze the fermentor the water level in the airlock should change. If the fermentor is airtight, or near airtight, the water level should remain in that changed water level for 30+ seconds. If the water level levels off quickly there is a leak somewhere.

For my coopers fementer I like to put some plumbers food grade silicone on the lid's threads where it comes in contact with the fermenter. You can find this stuff in the plumbing dept of hardware/home improvement stores. Also, you can try adjusting the tightness of the lid (a little looser or tighter) and then squeezing the fermentor again. The little adjustment might do the trick.

However, I must re-iterate that a lack of airlock activity means nothing. Let it sit a week and then just the gravity.

Click to expand...

Yes, I've done the test and the level stayed changed (not level) for a long time. I'm not going to worry about it too much although it keeps negging at me and I have to keep dismissing it.

I've been reluctant to loosen it any for fear of letting air in and possible contamination. I've probably have it tighter than it should be as I did tighten it some.

DO NOT TOUCH THAT BEER!!!

If you did a 5 gallon batch in your Coopers fermenter, you will likely never see any airlock activity. You took another SG and it was down 2 pts. It's working.

Look in the top translucent part, is there a foamy head (krausen) forming? That's your visual indication the yeast are happily eating sugar, belching CO2 and peeing ETOH.

Follow Papazian's advice here. Leave it alone for at least 2 weeks, preferably more. You will have better beer if you let it work at it's pace.

Enjoy your new obsession!

The kit actually calls for 23 liters (6.07 US Gallons).
I did play with it a LITTLE... Just the lid and the seals. It started bubbling immediately so SOMETHING wasn't completely tight.
There is the beginnings of a crust forming.

I was going to sacrifice a beer on this first batch to gauge a 'control' (by taking several hydrometer readings) approx. 4oz/reading. Do you think this is a good idea or just a waste of good beer? Should I go down to 2 readings/week or just start reading every 2-3 days after 2 weeks?
Recommendations WELCOME!

Yay! Glad it's bubbling now... although as mentioned by others lack of bubbling in the airlock doesn't mean it's not working... but it is reassuring when it does.

I wouldn't take any more hydrometer readings now for at least a week... you can leave it until two or three days prior to your intended bottling day to get an identical reading 24 hrs apart.

I know it's tempting to keep fiddling with it!

Edit: PS: I still look at mine several times a day even though it's doing nothing! lol

NZGirl said:

I know it's tempting to keep fiddling with it!

Edit: PS: I still look at mine several times a day even though it's doing nothing! lol

Click to expand...

Me too!

Added this to to include link to my blog.
Thanks to everyone who contributed and took time out of your day to help! :rockin:
Not much to see there. I'm sure I'll get my documentation better with time.
I have not made a firm bottle date (yet) but am convinced 2+ weeks in primary and 2+ weeks (contrary to printed kit instructions) is the way to go.
We'll see if I can make the 3 week commitment or not, eh?

three weeks is so loooooong... that's why I got two primaries... my first is now at day 13 and I'm struggling not to bottle it today... wait, wait, wait... I have never been a patient person, lol... the second primary I will definitely wait.

good luck with your waiting.

Texas and NZ, I feel your painful experience learning patience!!!!!

Go to the store and buy some good beer you really like. Enjoy those and give your beer time to mature properly. You'll be much happier with the results if you just let the yeast work their magic in their own time.

Meanwhile, get cracking on the next brew!! NZ, good job on another primary! Tex, get another, or be ready when you transfer to put another batch in. Once that pipeline gets going, you'll be surprised how fast a batch of your beer goes.

Most importantly, welcome to the addiciton!!! Waaaaaahahahahhaha

Hi guys from downunder...
Thats where these Coopers kits come from, we generally don't use glass carboys, every man and his dog (who brews) uses a plastic food grade fermenter (often Coopers).
They are easy to clean as the lid comes off, don't scratch them, use soft cleaning pads and bleach to clean them. If they smell leave them in the sun for a day. If the airlock doesn't bubble check the lid is tight and the seal isn't leaking. You can use Vaseline on the O ring seal to seal it better.

The Coopers beer kits are ok but i suggest a better yeast such as US-05. With the bog standard yeast you need a longer bottle life to get the yeasty aftertaste out.

As for PET bottles??? Fantastic, no bottle bombs, easy to clean and store (dont use hot water in them), Max shelf life without losing carbonation of 12-18 months (downside) Here you can buy replacement caps as apparently after about 10 uses some of the caps don't seal as well (i've had no problems so far.
I use a mix of both PET and glass. Glass is great but heavier and breaks easily.

Hey Flattop, I'm from downunder too, Cairns FNQ, and yep I'm using plastic pails. I've actually got a brew going at the moment I'm a bit worried about though, it's been over two weeks and it's still tasting sweet with a light vegemite scent to it, and the current gravity's way too high, even though it's been bubbling like billy-o. Ahh well, RDWHAHB, right? I'm still waiting on my kegging gear so no problem letting it sit longer. I've used the PET bottles too, they're great, but I'm going to be bottling the remainder of this batch in glass for presentation, hopefully the beer's worth it.

I already ordered another Coopers Beer Kit (primary fermenter) and it's due to arrive on Jan. 5th.
I figured I will be wanting two fermenters and I so really like the Coopers fermenter!
I know the beginning is the rough spot. Once I have some stockpiled I should be fine!
I have some cascade hops (pellets) coming from AHS (and muslum bag). I am going out on a limb and going to try dry hopping on my first batch! Wish me luck with that! LOL
My understanding is:
boil the bag put hops in it and (carefully) remove lid of the primary and just set it on top?
(should I boil some marbles to weight it down?)
I am looking for the extra crispness without the added bitterness. I'm figuring on adding it at the 1 week mark and then leaving 1-2 weeks in there prior to bottling.

My observation of the Coopers Kits (so far) are that they feel "one-yeast-fits-all" (lager, real ale and APA all have the same 'Coopers Brewing Yeast' dry packet in them.

I am still formulating what I want to do for my second batch but I will probably lean towards using up the lagers (extract kit included with each fermenter). Unfortunately I do not have a proper way to ferment at low temps (as I should) but the lager kits (with standard yeast) maintain the 21-27C range so not too sure how it will turn out.
One of the things I liked about using the Cooper's kits (when I researched) was that I could ferment at 'room temps' (we have central air so that is my temp. reg.)
Well, I'll have to see how it goes!

TexasStu said:

My observation of the Coopers Kits (so far) are that they feel "one-yeast-fits-all" (lager, real ale and APA all have the same 'Coopers Brewing Yeast' dry packet in them.

I am still formulating what I want to do for my second batch but I will probably lean towards using up the lagers (extract kit included with each fermenter). Unfortunately I do not have a proper way to ferment at low temps (as I should) but the lager kits (with standard yeast) maintain the 21-27C range so not too sure how it will turn out.
One of the things I liked about using the Cooper's kits (when I researched) was that I could ferment at 'room temps' (we have central air so that is my temp. reg.)
Well, I'll have to see how it goes!

Click to expand...

I just wanted to follow up and clarify regarding the yeast on the Coopers kits since I work for Coopers. All the Coopers beer kits that are part of the Original series (Lager, Draught, Real Ale, Bitter, Dark Ale, and Stout) do use the same use yeast. The yeast used is similar to the yeast that the Coopers Brewery uses for its bottle conditioned ales.

The Brewmaster Selection Series and The Premium Selection Series use stylistically appropriate yeast strains. The Pilsner, the Heritage Lager, and the European Lager use a hybrid lager strain similar to the California common strain. This allows for a wider range of temperature flexibility.
The IPA and the Irish Stout use an English Ale strain. The Wheat Beer uses a weizen strain, etc.

Thanks for the reply, Tom!
Please don't get my wording to mean I am complaining. I actually am glad I am not having to worry about multiple temperature ranges!
I assume the Australian Pale Ale is among the 'Original series' as it had the same yeast as well.
I am curious, do you know when Coopers began distruting through their distributor in the USA?
I'm pretty sure we (in the U.S.) have a 'shortlist' of all Coopers offers. Of course, I don't have any issues with that. In fact, I am happy we have the option of getting a Coopers as a startup kit (or I wouldn;t have bought another one before I even have a batch completed!

I'm a huge pale ale fan. I also like other beers but I believe I would say pale ales are my favorite. I am thinking of trying a batch of blue moon (clone) for SWMBO as my wife has been wholly supportive of my new hobby and Blue Moon is one of the few beers she has actually admitted to liking.

Oh! After I get a few batches under my belt, as it were I would love to try out that "For a tasty Summer treat, which uses liberal amounts of clover honey, see our 'Very Berry Honey Wheat Ale' recipe in our recipe database." as well as the Coopers Sparkling Ale!

Let me ask YOU something...
I did this (my first) batch using the APA (Australian Pale Ale) (instead of the Lager) along with the Brew Enhancer 2 and included Cooper yeast...

I'm thinking of tossing in 3oz. of cascadia hops as a 'dry hopping' addition (after 1 week in fermenter) for the additional 'crispness'.
Do you believe this is a bad idea?
If I do, do you think 6oz would be more adequate?
I have a small muslin bag, would you boil that and toss the hops in the bag or just loose?

TB, that vegimite thing is not good, it sounds like the yeast is eating itself... a bit unusual if there is sugar left. Perhaps the FNQ weather is too hot or possible infection. Suggest cooling it down a bit, this advice is for Texstu as well, sit it in a tray which you can fill with water and ice, drape a towel over it that is dipped into the water and then you have an outback fridge, top up the ice a few times a day.
Mind you the Coopers kits work fine at around 22*c most of mine are brewed at that temp.

Tex, with regards to dry hopping i usually use 25-50 gms which apparently is less than 3oz but my conversions are not great, so i would suggest 6gms may be a bit much.
I am moving to BIAB next year which involves using a bag similar to a dry hopping bag but larger putting 5kilos of grain in it and putting it in an electric urn of 40liters capacity, boiling for around 2 hours (add hops for the last 20 mins) and you are left with the wort afterward. You can still dry hop the wort.
As for the marbles i would think not as you would drop the hop bag into the trub and it may block the bag up. i throw my hops on top, i don't mind a bit of green stuff in my bottle, anyhow let the bag float on top, it will probably sink after a while anyhow.

Tomheff thanks for your insight into the yeasts, I find the Coopers yeast can leave aftertaste if it is drunk too early but after a month in the bottle it is great. Oh i also used a Weizen yeast with the Coopers Larger kit and it made a really funky brew, dry hopped with 25gms Hersbrucker.
I have only one beef with Coopers, they advertise using sugar not dex or dme in their kits, almost everyone complains about the cidery taste afterwards.... Otherwise great gear, and good beer on tap too.

Flattop, it's in a swamp chiller that I cycle frozen bottles through, keeping it at about 24-26... It has been peaking at about 28-30 though when I've been away and not able to change the bottles. *sigh* This is one weird ferment. If anyone out there's from a yeast lab, develop just one yeast that's happy around 26-28c and I will buy nothing else.

Flattop said:

TB, that vegimite thing is not good, it sounds like the yeast is eating itself... a bit unusual if there is sugar left. Perhaps the FNQ weather is too hot or possible infection. Suggest cooling it down a bit, this advice is for Texstu as well, sit it in a tray which you can fill with water and ice, drape a towel over it that is dipped into the water and then you have an outback fridge, top up the ice a few times a day.
Mind you the Coopers kits work fine at around 22*c most of mine are brewed at that temp.

Click to expand...

Yes, I was going to say something about vegimite sounding like (the dreaded) peanut butter but trying not to be a 'sea-lawyer' and spout off, being a n00b and all.

Flattop said:

Tex, with regards to dry hopping i usually use 25-50 gms which apparently is less than 3oz but my conversions are not great, so i would suggest 6gms may be a bit much.

Click to expand...

I have six 28gm packets. Elsewhere I believe I have read to use 6-8oz for ~6 gallons (obviously ~23 liters for a batch). So 1-2 packets? That works for me.

Flattop said:

I am moving to BIAB next year which involves using a bag similar to a dry hopping bag but larger putting 5kilos of grain in it and putting it in an electric urn of 40liters capacity, boiling for around 2 hours (add hops for the last 20 mins) and you are left with the wort afterward. You can still dry hop the wort.

Click to expand...

BIAB = Boil in a bag? That's a bit longer than the normal 60 mins, eh? Why so long?
The Blue Moon US micro clone) I'd like to attempt (for my wife & I) involves a boil (with standard triple 'hop dip') I believe. I want to get a few batches out and at least a taste or two of something I've let season a bit.
I was looking for a US distrib. of the Coopers Sparkling Ale but it's either not an international export (yet) or nobody I've looked at of their retailers (Cascadia Imports) which I finally figured out is the importer and makebeer.net is one of their retailers. We'll see who I 'adhere' to who will get me what I want from the Coopers line, eh?

Flattop said:

As for the marbles i would think not as you would drop the hop bag into the trub and it may block the bag up. i throw my hops on top, i don't mind a bit of green stuff in my bottle, anyhow let the bag float on top, it will probably sink after a while anyhow.

Click to expand...

Ok, I can do loose or in a bag. /shrug

Flattop said:

Tomheff thanks for your insight into the yeasts, I find the Coopers yeast can leave aftertaste if it is drunk too early but after a month in the bottle it is great. Oh i also used a Weizen yeast with the Coopers Larger kit and it made a really funky brew, dry hopped with 25gms Hersbrucker.
I have only one beef with Coopers, they advertise using sugar not dex or dme in their kits, almost everyone complains about the cidery taste afterwards.... Otherwise great gear, and good beer on tap too.

Click to expand...

When I got mine it came with (of course) the lager and 'brewing sugar' (Dextrose, Maltodextrin) and I wish I knew how much of each, just for experimentation.
Anyways, my first batch (as I have mentioned) I substituted the Australian Pale Ale (and it's yeast packet) for the lager and the 'Brew Enhancer 2' (Dextrose, Light Dry Malt, Maltodextrin) for the 'brewing sugar'.
There a pretty good presentation of why they do that by the US distributor (HERE) and the 5 points he covers at least explained (to ME) why they choose to do what they do (as well as to catch that 'easy button' audience? ).
I am reserving judgement until I have a chance to play it their way and play with some recipes (which is mainly why I'm disappointed I do not find someone in the USA who carries their 'full' line of product). Oh well! If they hook you and reel you in and then let you get off their 'hook' to go off and get caught by some other producer don;t come crying to ME!

Obviously it's about creation, creativity and imagination, right? I would not be too surprised if someone sees additional 'niche audiences' within the superset.

Thanks for the reply! Sorry mine was soooo wordy. LOL

I know that you weren't complaining. I just wanted to clarify in this forum that not all the Coopers beer kits use the same yeast.

The Australian Pale Ale is part of the International Series. It is intended to replicate the Coopers Pale Ale that is so popular in Australia. That is why it uses the same yeast as the Original Series. It is a little 'yeasty' but it is a good drop.

Actually I work for the US importer. Coopers is sold through 3 distributers in the US.

Let's see regarding the Coopers Australian Pale and dry hopping with Cascade hops... It might work. I wouldn't know for sure. There isn't a lot of aroma hop in the Coopers Pale Ale. I wouldn't boil the hops before you put them in the muslim bag. That may defeat the whole purpose of dry hopping -- aroma. Just put them in the muslim bag and float them on the top until you are ready to bottle. Do not float the hops loose. That will create too much sediment.

In reverse order...
Tomhef, Coopers is a top drop down under i agree with that.

Tex, 1-2 packets is fine, dont heat them just chuck them on top of the krausen at the tail end of the ferment (approx day4-5) or in the hop bag and straight in.
BIAB is probably only 1 1/2 hours but you need time to get the water to boiling temps and that style avoids sparging and other traditional methods, requires only the one vessel etc etc... the method is being used a bit down under and i want to give it a go as AG is supposed to taste better, costs are really only the Urn. The bag is made of a veil type material and you need to get one to fit the urn.
I bought a couple of Cascade kits today, Spicy ghost and Golden Harvest. I will put them on in the new year as a trial. I run 3 fermenters when i am going at full tilt.

RE the Cascadia stuff, i agree for the most part but;
Sugars are not sugars, use Dextrose or DME i avoid maltodextrin as it adds nothing to body, i use about 70% dex 30%DME or 60/40 atm and i usually go about 1.2kilos in total. As for the yeast blurb i sort of agree except i found with US-05 i am getting a cleaner taste (perhaps a little fruity though). Nothing wrong with the Coopers Ale yeast in the standard pack but it does take a while for the aftertaste to go away and if you don't decant from the bottle to jug (i don't- into the glass and mouth for me) then the last 200mls can be yeasty.

My next point would be to say that there are other suppliers that have great kits, i use ESB kits in 3kilo cans that need only water and the results are great, the Belgian Wheat is great the hops are in the tin already and visible.

TB as i just mentioned US-05 is a great yeast and i think it brews up to 24*, not far from your desired range.
Safale US-05

tomheff said:

Actually I work for the US importer. Coopers is sold through 3 distributers in the US.

Let's see regarding the Coopers Australian Pale and dry hopping with Cascade hops... It might work. I wouldn't know for sure. There isn't a lot of aroma hop in the Coopers Pale Ale. I wouldn't boil the hops before you put them in the muslim bag. That may defeat the whole purpose of dry hopping -- aroma. Just put them in the muslim bag and float them on the top until you are ready to bottle. Do not float the hops loose. That will create too much sediment.

Click to expand...

I did enjoy the marketing better on your site (if I guess right). Although I chuckled on one of the others. Diff. target audience I imagine.

Yes, I never intended on boiling them. I understand the chance of infection from hops is remote. More worried about the bag, actually. Think I'll boil some water, cool it down some and put in a capful of the sanitizer and soak it for a minute or so before stuffing it with hops and placing it on the wort.
Then dig it out of the trub after bottling.

I think I am going to opt for 2 packets of hops (2oz/~56gms) to go along with my 'Getting Down Under Thunder' theme for this batch of Australian Pale Ale. Makes me chuckle thinking of possible graphics images for labels.

Man! That specific gravity sure does drop like a rock with this product! 8-10 points per day. Took a reading last night and down to 1014 (4 days).

One other thing that concerned me (a little) was that when I took a reading (opened tap enough to get about 4oz. out) is that it back-sucks through the airlock. A source of possible contamination in a dirty world. Didn't phase me TOO much though since I'll be opening it up anyway to toss in the hops. But it is pause for thought for when taking readings after majority of CO2 production is over and done. Obviously I have been taking too many readings (1 per day) since I want to know essentially the process, so I know enough to control or alter or adapt. I won't be taking as many readings in the future.

Do you know of a method to minimise this 'sucking'? Or to make it a trivial matter?

Flattop said:

In reverse order...
RE the Cascadia stuff, i agree for the most part but;
Sugars are not sugars, use Dextrose or DME i avoid maltodextrin as it adds nothing to body, i use about 70% dex 30%DME or 60/40 atm and i usually go about 1.2kilos in total.

Click to expand...

Aren't there times you want to increase strength without adding additional body? (such as a lighter brew, perhaps a pilsner or lager maybe?) Guess I am just saying I can see the point of using Maltodextrin in specific situations?

Flattop said:

My next point would be to say that there are other suppliers that have great kits, i use ESB kits in 3kilo cans that need only water and the results are great, the Belgian Wheat is great the hops are in the tin already and visible.

Click to expand...

Forgive my ig'nance but ESB = ?

TexasStu said:

I did enjoy the marketing better on your site (if I guess right). Although I chuckled on one of the others. Diff. target audience I imagine.

Click to expand...

Yes, if you are referring to the Cascadia Importers site it is our site. What is the other site that you are referring to?

TexasStu said:

Yes, I never intended on boiling them. I understand the chance of infection from hops is remote. More worried about the bag, actually.

Click to expand...

If the bag is new, it shouldn't be an issue.

TexasStu said:

Do you know of a method to minimise this 'sucking'? Or to make it a trivial matter?

Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry about the sucking. The CO2 gas that is in the bucket will force out any O2 that came in.

tomheff said:

Yes, if you are referring to the Cascadia Importers site it is our site. What is the other site that you are referring to?

Click to expand...

The makebeer.net site (with all the old style folks with the huge (viagra?) grins).

tomheff said:

If the bag is new, it shouldn't be an issue.

Click to expand...

ok, thanks!

tomheff said:

I wouldn't worry about the sucking. The CO2 gas that is in the bucket will force out any O2 that came in.

Click to expand...

More good news!
Looks like 2009 is going to be a GREAT year!

Oh yes, I'm looking at trying the Cascading Pale Ale recipe as one of my next batches:
(taken off your site, btw

have you had the chance to try this (or any of the recipes from your site)?

Cascading Coopers Pale Ale
by Brewtopia Homebrew Supplies

Original Gravity (°Plato) Final Gravity (°Plato) IBUs % Alc./Wt. (Alc./V.) Color SRM (EBC)
1.054 (13.5) 1.015 (3.75) 4.1 (5.2) ()

Description
This beer is delicious with a tremendous Cascade, grapefruit peel flavour and aroma. And what a marvellous body and residual sweetness!

Quantity [Metric] Ingredient Comment
1 can Coopers Lager Kit
1 can Coopers Light Malt extract
0.75 lb(s) [0.3 kg(s)] Light Crystal Malt
0.125 lb(s) [0.1 kg(s)] Dark Crystal Malt
0.125 lb(s) [0.1 kg(s)] Malted Wheat
3 oz [85 g] Cascade hops
2 pkg Coopers Ale yeast

Instruction
Steep all crushed grains in 7 litres (1.5 gallons) of water from the time the water is cold right up until the boil. Remove grains and add both cans of malt extract. Boil 10 minutes and add 30g (one oz) of the Cascade hops. Boil 20 more minutes and add another 30g (one oz) of Cascade. Boil 5 more minutes and remove pot from heat and add to 14 litres (3 gallons) of water in fermenter. Sprinkle in yeast when wort is around 26ºC (78.8ºF). After 3 days, add last 30g (one oz) of Cascade directly into fermenter. Bottle after 12 days total in the ferment, or rack to secondary for another week or so, and then bottle. Prime with 3/4 cup of dextrose.

I myself have not tried that specific recipe. It was a recipe provided by a third party source. It sounds good though.

Yes, it does! :cross:
And it's a decent transitional into boiling I think.

TexasStu said:

Yes, it does! :cross:
And it's a decent transitional into boiling I think.

Click to expand...

Do not boil the malt extract if possible. It is unnecessary and it will darken the beer and caramelize it. Also the bittering in the Lager beer kit will be reduced.

tomheff said:

Do not boil the malt extract if possible. It is unnecessary and it will darken the beer and caramelize it. Also the bittering in the Lager beer kit will be reduced.

Click to expand...

I was wondering about that. Figured it was OK since y'all had it up on your site. Any suggestions to combining a boil?

The recipe calls for:

Remove grains and add both cans of malt extract. Boil 10 minutes and add 30g (one oz) of the Cascade hops. Boil 20 more minutes and add another 30g (one oz) of Cascade. Boil 5 more minutes and remove pot from heat and add to 14 litres (3 gallons) of water in fermenter.

Click to expand...

Should I add the extract after the boil, combine with the 3 gallons in the fermenter and add the boil to that or something else (less obvious)?

I was intending on using a gallon milk container to re-oxidize (both the boiled/cooled water) and the boiled wort (from an ice bath), shaken up really well. I do not have a chiller or aeriater (sp?) so was going to and add to fermenter aftterwards

TexasStu said:

Aren't there times you want to increase strength without adding additional body? (such as a lighter brew, perhaps a pilsner or lager maybe?) Guess I am just saying I can see the point of using Maltodextrin in specific situations?

Dex will increase ABV without adding body, DME adds both, Maltodextrin from what i remember adds sweetness but doesn't ferment much.....

Forgive my ig'nance but ESB = ?

Click to expand...

Sorry it's a brand here Extra Special Bitter, comes in 1.7kilo and 3kilo cans.
The 3K cans make a great brew, when you cut the top off you can see the hops floating on top. tip it into the fermentor with 22 litres of water add the yeast... cant go wrong really. I did a Hoegaarden clone 2 days ago it comes with hops and corriander seeds inside....

Ah! Thanks

I believe that Coopers kits are the same ones produced at the South Australian brewery. I am presently brewing their Mexican Cervesa x 44 litres 2batches.All their types give great results.

I do not know if it is available but the kits from the Tasmanian brewery "Cascade" has a variety called "Spicy Ghost" I brew this occationally as it costs a bit more but it is good. I am hoping that Tasmania's other famous brewery "Boags" comes up with some of its varieties.

I tend to use the varieties made by Tooheys, the Lager and Draught would be my mainstay.

Coopers were the first to deliver a product that would give the homebrewer a beer that rivelled the commercial brands even Coopers themselves. Others now try to match that quality to the delight of Australian homebrewers.

Using a kit it is essential to follow the 1 2 3 system 1 week in fermentation 2 weeks in the Secondary and 3 weeks in the bottle.

I have still to bottle a batch of the Cerveza which has been 3 weeks in Secondary but it will only improve.

I agree Terry, the coopers kits are damn good, but as i said earlier they do tend to get a bit yeasty if drunk too green, i dry hop my Cerveza's.
I have a Cascade Spicy ghost here to go soon.
I tend not to rack the simpler brews, just 2 weeks in primary although i have used isinglass in a few to get the yeast into the trub before bottling.
As for the Fermenters, i have 3 and only 1 Coopers and i wish they were all Coopers, they seal better and are more squat in shape.

I think the Cooper's Lager is excellent kegged. I add a pound of Belgian Rock Candy to take the top off the IMO, over-hopped finish. I've even throne the bag of 'lollies' in the wort and bottle-bucket primed at bottling.

I am told by MAKEBEER in Seatle that they sell the Cooper's fermenters, spigots and lids but not the grommet for the airlock, MIDWEST HOMEBREWING SUPPLIES does. I've had the grommet dry out ande not seal properly. These are great units and I have 2.

Hmm! ever considered cling wrap, secured with a rubber band around the top and a pin hole to vent.

Works for me, Co2 sits on brew. the advantage is you can see how the brew is doing and you can read the Hydrometer if it floats on the top.

Actually as I use the 1,2,3 method I do not bother with the hydrometer just taste the result a week before bottling. I do not change from the kit only add Dextrose so inconsistancy is not an issue. You can tell if there is any residue sweetness unfermented. I do not have sugar in tea, coffee or cereal so I can detect even a minor amount of sweetness.

I do not use finnings as I believe all the necessary ingrediants are included.

I've used the cling wrap method on my other Fermenters but the Coopers seals fine.

Late to the thread, but just want to second that the Cooper's fermenters do not like to seal. It was my first kit and my first two batches had zero airlock activity due to a bad seal. The beer turned out fine, but I bought some food-grade lubricant and put it on the O-ring for my third batch. Big mistake. It sealed it nice and tight, but after two weeks, the lubricant had turned into cement. I could not get the lid off the fermenter. I had to throw it away.

I haven't had that problem with my Coopers fermenter, seals well. In fact of my 3 current fermenters the Coopers is the only one that seals well.

Another fermenter that i have does not seal so well and i use Vaseline on the O ring to seal it properly which also helps as a lubricant to unscrew it as it gets rather tight. It doesn't go hard like cement either.

Ohh one problem i had with the clingwrap method was an over excitable brew that leaked under the clingwrap and over my bar, it was only a few drips but still the fermenter stuck to the top of the bar and it took some force to get it off.

Airlock grommets are about $1-2usd down under and are available in almost every mall as the kits are common here in Kmart.