Bubbling Started Too Early

Hey I'm Turkish,

Yesterday I brewed my batch regularly but I've seen the point that I missed after I leave my batch to fermentation.

The point is "you don't leave your too hot batch to fermentation"

The batch was 122 degree (F) or something arround it. I saw the bubble on my airlock after 1/2 hour and it remains maybe 8 hours

Today when I woke up there is no bubbling on. Now about 28th hour after my batch was ready to fermentation.

Here's the question: Must I throw my batch away to garbage? The yeast, sugar, maltose etc. are all dead?

It was my first brewing, I follow the all grain fermentation and all grain fermentation was very conscientious, timespanding, exhaustive to me I don't want to throw them all

First off, the lesson learned is that you HAVE to be patient in all aspects of brewing!! In the future, you must ALWAYS wait until your wort is 70-80 degrees F before you pitch your yeast.

That said, you didn't kill your yeast at 122. At 122, you may have debilitated some of your yeast, but you had plenty of airlock activity, so the majority of the yeast were alive and well.

At higher temps, yeast ferment more quickly, so your batch is probably fine in that respect. The only way to tell is to take a gravity reading and make sure the fermentation is complete.

HOWEVER, here's what is going to happen. At higher temps, the yeast are going to produce by-products like esters, that are going to end up as off-flavors in your beer.

BUT DON'T TOSS IT! All this means is that the beer is going to need a LONGGGG time to condition out those esters. Leave it in the primary for at least three or four more weeks.

If you bottle, then go ahead and bottle (and carb). If you keg, go ahead and keg, but don't refridgerate. Leave the beer at room temp for about 2-3 months, and the off flavors you created with your hot fermentation will condition out and mellow into good beer.

So don't dump the batch, but you are going to pay for your initial impatience with a new lesson in patience. This beer will be fine, but you are going to have to wait about 3-4 months to drink it due to this error in pitching temp.

Good luck!!

That's a pretty high temperature error. It might be drinkable after 3-4 months, but it sure won't be optimal. Probably not even very good. Neither was my first beer.

Lesson learned. Cool off your wort. Learn the process. You have internet access - check the yeast manufacturer's recommendations for temperature. Stick by that.

Welcome to HBT and to Brewing!

Wow very quick answers I'm shocked!
I don't want to waste your time masters. There is too many things in this forum that I must read.

I'll wait my time but going to launch my new batch. Thank you all posters.

Thank you,
I added a little bit more yeast today and close. To bubble now again started. One bubble per one minute now.

By the way, when I open the bucket I taste it. We are in third day of fermentation. Only first 10 hours it bubbled. Last 24 hours no bubble. Nevertheless I taste quite alcoholful wort

Now It bubbles in a relaxed condition. I'm happy, I'll wait.

I knew the hydrometer appear opposite me at last. Bad news, I don't have got an hydrometer.

I know the Final Gravity or OG are important things but... But my friends, but

May you give a quick and understandable hydrometer guide to a foreigner?

I don't think he has a hydrometer.

Anyway, the hydrometer tells you how heavy the wort is compared to water. You just float it in the wort and read the mark where the wort touches it. By comparing the reading before fermentation (OG, or "original gravity") to the reading after fermentation (FG, or "final gravity,) you can tell how much alcohol is in your beer. When you take several readings that don't change, you also know for sure that your beer is done fermenting.

If you don't have a hydrometer, you can get by with leaving your beer in the fermenter for a good long time. Three or four weeks maybe? I'm not going to pretend to be an expert, but that's what I would do.

I love the helpfulness of this forum. =]

What should I do for the particles in the batch? I mean to bottle time, now I can see a lot of residue in the wart. How do I prevent these things happen?

You need a separate bucket when it's time to bottle. You siphon out of the fermenting bucket into the bottling bucket. Hopefully the bottling bucket has a spigot (valve).


Boil a small amount of water, add priming sugar (about 4 oz for a 5 gal batch [US] ). cool that off and add to the bottling bucket, then carefully and quietly (no bubbles, no air) siphon the wort from fermenter to bottling bucket, leaving the particles (trub) behind. Stir gently to mix the priming sugar. Bottle.

store at 70F for three weeks, then refrigerate and enjoy.

I got what you said but I don't really clearly get it theorically. How can water and sugar do that?
We talk about liquid things right? And if you siphon the wart to other bucket then particles in the liquid must come into.

Also to use corn syrup (high fructose) works for brightness?

And you said "The 2C of hot water" what is "2C"? I don't know American standarts sorry.

komomos said:

Also to use corn syrup (high fructose) works for brightness?

"The 2C of hot water" what is "2C"?

Click to expand...

Think he means two cups of water to mix the priming sugar. I don't even bother with a bottling bucket. I simply pour the priming mix into the primary including the 'residue'.. mix it lightly and let it settle for an hour. then I can transfer to bottles. Saves sterilizing an extra bucket and worrying about an infection from new bucket amongst other things.

This is a good resource to prime your beer, actually, the whole website is brilliant: http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html

komomos said:

I got what you said but I don't really clearly get it theorically. How can water and sugar do that?
We talk about liquid things right? And if you siphon the wart to other bucket then particles in the liquid must come into.

Click to expand...

When you siphon, you want the yeast that is in suspension to come along for the ride - that's fine. But that thick layer of muck at the bottom - that's trub, proteins, dead yeast, hops, etc. If you carefully siphon ABOVE that layer, you'll leave it behind.

Then, you need sugar to carbonate the beer in the bottles - after you siphon off the trub, before you bottle. It mixes together with the wort.