Those with painted brew stands - HELP

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ghart999

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So I am about ready to paint my brew stand. Single-tier with 1.5" mild steel. I am planning on using some of that 2000F header paint for the steel around the burners. However I would like to use a bright yellow 500F engine paint for the main part of the stand. I know that will probably not work at all around the burners. So I am trying to figure out what the temp of the steel is at is goes down the stand.

Here's the blueprint. If anything I would do the 2000F stuff for the whole top. But on the 6 pieces pieces coming down could I use the 500F paint as soon as it clears the 1/5" of the top piece?

Also what about primer? I don't think they make a 2000F primer. So would I not use anything for the top piece? What the 500F paint, use 500F primer for that? Thanks all.



File
 
I had some questions about painting; here's the link with some good advice I got and what I did...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/brew-stand-paint-advice-158711/

Long story short, I used black stove paint on the top without priming and then primed and painted the rest of the stand. The stove paint has been holding up well. There were a couple spots where I hit primer with the stove paint and it crackled, not sure why, but I just sprayed it later a little heavy... I would suggest doing a test on a scrap of tubing which you could even heat test and see how it works for you... Good luck!
 
So what temp paint was the rest of the stand? Also do you have pics? How far down did you do the stove paint?
 
Here's a link with a better explanation... Sorry, it's been a while.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/two-burner-brew-stand-160684/

I used regular flat black paint on the bottom part; that is, from the level that has the clamps to hold the gas manifold on down to the feet. I used cake tin heat shields and this keeps the rest of the stand from getting hot. The top definitely gets hot, but like I said, it hasn't burned the paint off. I try not to slide the kettle around on it so I don't scratch it off, but in normal use it has held up great so far. When it does need attention, I'll just shoot another coat of paint on. Hope this helps more...
 
I am also just about to paint. How did you guys clean the brewstand to prep for painting? Should I try hitting it with a power washer? Also, I have access to a lot of different chemicals. Any recommendations?
 
I think I used a rag and paint thinner to remove any residual oil from the steel then scratched the surface with medium grit wet/dry sandpaper.
 
A can of carb cleaner does wonders on removing the oil from steel
 
For cleaning, I just used some de-greaser from HD, then painted the whole thing with high temp paint, no primer. seems to work for me.
 
Thanks for the input guys!

I am also used 1.5" square mild steel tubing AND diatonics schematic! He's the man, that's for sure. I did change several dimensions, but it looks pretty damn close to the same thing.

So, I used a few different industrial (hardcore!) degreasers. The rags are pretty much wiping clean now. However, the steel is still grey (as opposed to shiny), albeit it's not black like it was before the cleaning. Is this good enough to throw paint on?

Did you guys have it all shiny before painting? I'm still gonna try the carb cleaner just to see if it makes a difference, and I will definitely sand before painting... uh, oh... that leads me to another question. If it's not shiny clean, will sanding it bring out or embed impurities causing a crappy paint job?

I'm overthinking this. It's gonna make beer, and that's what matters. :mug:
 
Everything I have been told thus far is to sand it before painting. Maybe wipe down again after sanding with degreaser one last time.

I plan to sand use a flapper on a angle grinder.
 
I'm using a 60 grit flap. How about you?

+1 on wiping it down again with degreaser after sanding. My chemical dealer told me to do that. He's got some industrial rustconverter/primer, so I might as well give it a try, right?
 
OK, so I painted last night. I didn't sand or use primer. Haha. I told myself, "F*** it. It'll make beer. Just paint the damn thing."

The paint went on just fine on top of that gray layer. That gray layer that doesn't really come off with degreaser is the protective coating that comes from the factory, right?

I still gotta do at least one more coat. It should be good to go after that.
 
As a former auto body paint prep I will let you know the correct way to get the best paint job on you stand is to use Wax and Grease remover prior to sanding. Sanding should be done with 320 to 400 grit dry, you can probably get none sanding sealer primer in a can now (maybe) basically after a set time you paint directly over it.

And if all that sounds like to much work find a place to powder coat it, I bet it won't cost to much more and will be the best method. Stoves are powdercoated.
 
Joker,

Can I powdercoat some of the frame only and leave the very top bare or already painted with BBQ paint? Due to the extreme heat these frames generate I don't believe powderocating on the very top of the stand would fair well long term. So I am wanting to use either BBQ paint or some of that 2000F header paint on the top of the stand and then maybe powdercoat the rest. Possible?

Also do I really need to cure the 2000F header paint for it to work correctly? Obviously I cannot bake it to curing temps since I don't have a 5 foot long oven. Thanks.
 
You can mask off the parts you don't want powder coated. I would take it to a shop and have it done. When you find a place to apply the powder coat explain to them what you are using it for and they may have other recommendations.
 
I used automotive header paint (2000degree) on mine, on the top, and 500 degree paint on bottom. I have lots of pictures of my stant from start to almost finished including the paint cans I used for the brand. I considered powdercoating as well but they have to use a special high temp powdercoating to withstand the heat and it is very expensive. I figured It is much easier to repaint the stand if needed with a couple of cans of paint then have it re-powdercoated. I have had a couple of long burns to cure the paint and there is no sign of problems with the paint yet. :mug:
 
My beef with the BBQ paint is that it's pretty ugly in comparison to glossy header paint. It scuffs really easy too or maybe I had a bad can before?

I don't have a problem with the scuffing, but yea the flat black isn't exactly the best thing to look at.
 
ive have to sand/repaint my BBQ smoker's fire box every 3-4th time I use it due to rust.

i dont know if its the heat or the acidity from the ash, but im not sold on this stuff being all the great. I'd try header paint.
 

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