Importance of grain bed depth to batch sparging

Hi there! As the clock ticks down to my first AG brew on Saturday, I'm wondering about the importance of grain bed depth when batch sparging.

I built my mashing and lauter tun out of a 48 qt coleman cooler. In retrospect that seems pretty big.

My recipe for this first go-round uses 10 lbs of grain. Once that is distributed over the floor of the cooler, I'm not expecting much in the way of grain bed depth.

With that said, if I'm batch sparging, is that thin grain bed gonna cause me problems? Thanks.

That'll be fine. You may need to vorlauf a bit more to clarify the wort effectively, but you'll be good.

Welcome to AG!

Not a problem at all. Batch sparging stirs the bed, which means more recirculating to clear, but good extraction.

Please explain Batch sparging
Thanks
JJ

Don't bother Rich. I got this one Your probably getting tired of suggesting it anyway right

For all the important information on batch sparging you should take a look at Rich's thread that gives all the nitty gritty.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=8805&highlight=batch+sparging

OK thanks for the link Beer Snob
so we are talking about mini mashes. where does the term "Batch Sparging" come from. JUst wondering.
JJ

Batch sparging can be applied to any mash, partial or full. It's called a 'batch' sparge because you add 'batches' of hot liquor to the mash instead of sparging continuously.

It is said to be very easy. Seems easy if you use the right malt. You have to factor in a little more because it is less efficient.

gotcha..... thanks
JJ

When batch sparging what temp do you use? 170ish like when continuously or at a lower temp as to not extract tannins?

Grimsawyer said:

When batch sparging what temp do you use? 170ish like when continuously or at a lower temp as to not extract tannins?

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When you add the second (and subsequent if required) batch you want the grainbed to be in the 168-170F range...I usually add my water ~175F. It also depends on whether or not you did a mash-out infusion to the first batch which would have raised the temp of the grainbed.

I find batch sparging and fly sparging to be basically equivalent in efficiency on my system. Which one will be more efficient (if either) really depends on your lautertun construction. Generally speaking, fly sparging would be more efficient with a false bottom while batch sparging would be more efficient with the stainless braid.

I like to try for high efficiencies, but I also try to balance the amount of time I spend doing it.

It is said to be very easy.

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Indeed it is very easy and fast.

Seems easy if you use the right malt.

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Not sure what you mean by this? Any malt you use in a fly sparge set up will work with batch sparging.

You have to factor in a little more because it is less efficient.

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This may be true on your first or second batch. My first batch sparge brew came in at 75% efficiency, my second batch was 80% I am now regulary getting 85% efficiency.

Check this website out, Denny is the King of batch sparging.
http://www.hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/