has any one ever fomented in a ball lock keg?
ferment in a keg
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TheGoatman
Active Member
Fermented? Crazy talk! Lol! You could do that, but it's a poor use of a ball lock keg. It's more difficult to clean than a pail or other fermenter, you're limited to your final volume of kegged (or bottled) beer, due to the fact that you need a decent amount of headroom for fermentation (not to mention clearance for the gas dip tube) and that the bottom inch would be expended yeast, and the blowoff tube would have a small ID diameter (5/16" max, if that). If you have so many ball lock kegs that you have to find new uses for them, might be better off selling them.
Peruvian802
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't ferment in a ball lock keg. A pin lock is fine though. [emoji12]
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1471780168.007743.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1471780168.007743.jpg
Sure. This thread talks about a new 6.5 gal one that is a cheap stainless fermenter option:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=543706
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=543706
yes, you can. I would take the gas post out and insert a plastic tube for blow-off. You need to make sure your batch is 4.3-4.6 gallons to allow for some headspace for blow-off. You will probably end up with 4 gallons of beer after transfer.
Cleaning is not that much different than any other cleaning process with kegs. The nice thing is that you can easily do closed transfer under CO2, and avoid oxygen - and adding fruit, hops or oak is very easy due to large opening.
Downside is you cannot see fermentation process (same as in a bucket or any stainless steel fermenter), and the fact that dip tube can easily get clogged with hops/yeast and trub material, making transfer out of the keg more difficult.
spittybug
Well-Known Member
I do it all the time. Use fermcap tabs to keep fermentation more quiet. No air, no racking. I blow off from the fermenter into a second corny to catch the krausen. The second corny has a spunding valve on its gas port so that I can keep everything under pressure (saves CO2 later and reportedly the yeast like a bit of pressure). You can either bottle from the keg or simply transfer off the trub to another. If your wort is nice and clean, the amount of trub at the bottom of the keg isn't bad at all. The first few seconds of a transfer will be yeasty, but after that, clear. To make things even better, I went with a floating dip tube that's attached to a ball lock in the corny lid (Chinese, on line). That way I get NO yeast transfer. I actually push through a filter in between the two kegs if I'm looking for a nice clear beer.
I don't make hoppy IPAs so I don't dry hop. But if you do, just put the hops in a nice clean bag (not floating free) and you'll be fine.
I don't ever see going back to buckets again.
I don't make hoppy IPAs so I don't dry hop. But if you do, just put the hops in a nice clean bag (not floating free) and you'll be fine.
I don't ever see going back to buckets again.
OP
OP
good info guys, I think I am going to mess with this. Spittybug seems to have it down.
I was thinking of why not just go from the boil pot to a keg, and then transfer to another keg after a week or so if needed. After that just hook it up to your CO2 and pull off a class when you want it. No problem with aeration and seems so simple.
I was thinking of why not just go from the boil pot to a keg, and then transfer to another keg after a week or so if needed. After that just hook it up to your CO2 and pull off a class when you want it. No problem with aeration and seems so simple.
spitty's method is solid for fermentation, and is exactly what i do, with something extra.
when it's time to rack i put the fermenting keg on the counter, the receiving keg on the floor, and then connect the liquid posts with a jumper. I then pull the PRV on the receiving keg, which drops the pressure, thereby starting a siphon from the keg on the counter. then i connect the 2 gas ports together to equalize the pressure. 30 minutes later you have a batch of beer transferred in a closed loop.
Even better if you can catch it with 4-6 gravity points to go. After racking you attach the spunding valve and get yourself some luscious natural carbonation.
Something else i did when switching to corny keg fermentation is alter my batch size. Now instead of 10G (11 in ferm), i plan for either 9.5G (2 kegs) or 14.25G (3 kegs). So i can actually go slightly smaller or slightly larger.
I think it's a fine idea. I have done it with mixed success. No oxygen exposure post fermentation (even though you can do closed transfers with PET fermentors too).
Disadvantages in my opinion - you have to start with <5G of beer, and probably end up with ~4G.
Can't see fermentation (I like to see the process). Clogged dip tubes - leading to disassembly and air exposure prior to transfer. Long dip tubes and not being able to see where trub line is, means you will suck in a lot of (most?) trub if you are doing closed transfer, so make sure you dump it first. Also could easily lead to clogging.
I like spittybug's approach of floating dip tube (any links to cheap Chinese options for this?). This eliminates clogging/trub line problems.
chickypad
lupulin shift victim
The floating diptube is a good idea, I'd be interested in a link too as the ones I've seen are pricey. When fermenting in a keg I have a slightly shortened dip tube that I use to jump to a serving keg.
I use these in my serving kegs. Love them but they are like $35 a piece.
http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com
http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com
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The link I posted above is from a guy using 6.5 gallon kegs from Williams brewing. Takes care of the volume issue. But I think it would make most sense as a dedicated fermentation vessel
I just ordered 15 custom made shortened gas dip tubes to swap out all of my kegs, both serving and fermenting, plus a few spares for future kegs ;-)
Shortened gas dip tube are a big improvement for a few reasons:
1. It's really just an o-ring holder. No function otherwise, so length is irrelevant.
2. If you water the purge the keg, you can tilt the keg to 45 degrees and get the air bubble out of the lid.
3. You can take about 3/4" off of the stock dip tube, which is nearly a liter of extra volume, or extra insurance head space.
Shortened gas dip tube are a big improvement for a few reasons:
1. It's really just an o-ring holder. No function otherwise, so length is irrelevant.
2. If you water the purge the keg, you can tilt the keg to 45 degrees and get the air bubble out of the lid.
3. You can take about 3/4" off of the stock dip tube, which is nearly a liter of extra volume, or extra insurance head space.
Ordered?!?! I didn't know these were made, i've just cut all mine with a tube cutter.
Custom ordered from norcalbrewing.
I did 1 with a tube cutter and decided to do 11 more wasn't worth my time. I had a brand new tube cutter right out of the package and it took hundreds of turns over 30 minutes and in the end left a really bad edge that still needed to be sanded down.
I have a bigger one that I bought to use at work on some thick walled ss tubing.... guess it made it easier as it only took me a couple twists.
I am missing a couple that I am running with no dip tubes... maybe I'll have to get some.
I am missing a couple that I am running with no dip tubes... maybe I'll have to get some.
Perhaps a standard tube cutter wasn't the right tool for the job. Any idea what the tool was?
Yep, http://www.mcmaster.com/#3241a16/=13vyeix
Most of the cutters that you buy at a home improvement store have a wheel designed for cutting either copper or plastic in them.
Yah i had a Kabalt brand one. Probably lucky to have even got through 1.
Close to a wash in terms of money spent vs tool purchased. That sucker isn't cheap.
