Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
FiveKaiBrewing said:
I have to look but from what i understand there are ones that fit perfectly inside the 20L with the rim. you just cut off the handle. I just cut the rime off one i had in the house for now but i am going to source a perfect fit with rim when i have time.
Click to expand...

Mine is 13 5/8" from edge to edge exactly. I can only find 13" or 15". I may try to order a couple of 13" and see how it rides out.
 
Inodoro_Pereyra said:
Excellent videos! Thank you Yambor, you cleared up a lot of questions I had about this setup.:mug:

So, what's your opinion of the system?
Click to expand...

If it holds up, which it should, I think it is a winner. This was the least stressful brew day I have ever had. When you think of brewing on a new system for the very first time coupled with videoing, that's something I think! :mug:
 
Yambor44 said:
Mine is 13 5/8" from edge to edge exactly. I can only find 13" or 15". I may try to order a couple of 13" and see how it rides out.
Click to expand...

If its to small you can always make your own silicon seal around the edge to make it fit more snug. i use rescue tape around the edge of one that was 9 3/4 inches to make it 10" exactly.
 
Yambor44 said:
If it holds up, which it should, I think it is a winner. This was the least stressful brew day I have ever had. When you think of brewing on a new system for the very first time coupled with videoing, that's something I think! :mug:
Click to expand...


Yup, it is. Thank you again for taking the time. :rockin:

One question though...when mashing, doesn't it increase the rick of oxidation to have the hot wort continually falling around the edge of the grain bucket?:confused:
 
Inodoro_Pereyra said:
Yup, it is. Thank you again for taking the time. :rockin:

One question though...when mashing, doesn't it increase the rick of oxidation to have the hot wort continually falling around the edge of the grain bucket?:confused:
Click to expand...

I think that HSA has really been dismissed as another "Homebrewing Boogeyman".

Yambor44, is there a Make/Model on those pumps? It would be interesting to see if they have those in a larger size, I like they way they break down so easily for cleaning!
 
Inodoro_Pereyra said:
HSA?:confused:
Click to expand...
Hot Side Aeration, it's what you're calling Oxygenation. HSA is Aerating (Technically oxygenation can only be done when you use pure O2.) the wort while hot, like during mashing or boiling.

Edit: Wait, I misread... ...you are using the term Oxidation. That only happens after the beer has been fermented and oxygen/air has been introduced. During the boil any O2 that has been introduced in the mash is pretty well driven off. That's one of the reasons why we aerate/oxygenate before pitching yeast, the yeast need O2 to help build up strong cell walls in order to reproduce.
 
Thank you Wyzazz, but I think we're talking about 2 different things.

It is (as far as I know) widely accepted that, after the boil the wort need to be cooled as fast as possible, and without disturbing it much, because if you introduce air to the hot wort there's a strong chance it will oxidize, instead of the air just stay in suspension. I don't know to which point it's true or not, as I've never brewed yet, but it seems to be the consensus here.
My question is, being that while mashing the wort is pretty hot, wouldn't we run the same risk as if we aerated it when hot after boiling?
 
Hey Yambor44, when's the full feature film coming to a theater near me. Greatly appreciate the effort you put into filming your first brew. I agree with you that my first brew day was the least stressful day I've ever had. My boil with the 20l was about the same as yours (with the insulating cover on), up until I added the chiller, then it could barely keep the temp up. How did yours do with the chiller in place. Did you pick up much trub/hops when to transferred to the fermentor. Does your pump run all during the boil? Mine doesn't. Does your yeast slurry kick pretty quick. I've always used a starter, but I like the simplicity of your approach.
 
Inodoro Pereyra said:
It is (as far as I know) widely accepted that, after the boil the wort need to be cooled as fast as possible, and without disturbing it much, because if you introduce air to the hot wort there's a strong chance it will oxidize, instead of the air just stay in suspension. I don't know to which point it's true or not, as I've never brewed yet, but it seems to be the consensus here.
My question is, being that while mashing the wort is pretty hot, wouldn't we run the same risk as if we aerated it when hot after boiling?
Click to expand...

Boiling drives off oxygen. You can't oxidize pre-fermented beer.
 
Warning, just a bit :off:

Inodoro_Pereyra said:
Thank you Wyzazz, but I think we're talking about 2 different things.

It is (as far as I know) widely accepted that, after the boil the wort need to be cooled as fast as possible - This is the Widely Accepted way to go, but you can also do a "No Chill" batch.

and without disturbing it much - Only after fermentation occurs is disturbing the wort a big issue. After fermentation it's no longer wort but beer.

because if you introduce air to the hot wort there's a strong chance it will oxidize, instead of the air just stay in suspension. - Again, really only after fermentation is this an issue. You actually want to aerate/oxygenate your wort after it's cooled & before you pitch your yeast. IIRC we are aiming for 10PPM of O2 for an optimal fermentation. You can only get to around 8PPM without pure O2.

I don't know to which point it's true or not, as I've never brewed yet, but it seems to be the consensus here.
My question is, being that while mashing the wort is pretty hot, wouldn't we run the same risk as if we aerated it when hot after boiling? - Nope, the boil removes the O2 from the wort.
Click to expand...

I hope some of this helps...
 
i use pure o2 and a 2 micron stone to aerate my wort. i have no clue what ppm i get to on o2 concentration i just let it bubble a minute or two and the yeast likes it..
 
Thanks for taking the time to document your brewing session. The bruameister looks like a very well designed and constructed machine. I especially like the compactness of the system, the footprint is roughly a 1/3 of my current system and it seems that there are less things to clean up.

I've three questions that weren't answered in your videos, or anywhere else on the internet best I could determine.

1) Is the pump involved when transferring the wort from the braumeister into the fermenter? In your video it looks like you simply used gravity to transfer the wort, is there a possibility of using one of the pumps if I wanted to pump into a tall conical for instance?

2) How did you attach your drain tube? Is it just friction? If so, then my guess is that a pump would end up pulling it off and you'd end up with a big mess.

3) Does it look like the existing drain cock can be removed and replaced with a ball valve and clover fitting? This would allow for the use of a pump when transferring the wort if gravity isn't feasible.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
marzisi, I think I can answer your questions. I have the 20l braumeister and I use a march pump to recirculate and transfer the wort to the fermenter. On pages 8 and 9 of this thread it shows how I set my system up. I used thick walled silicon tubing and clamped it to the spigot. The rest are quick connect fittings. The pump is hard plumbed into the bottom of the pot with stainless elbows. It would be very difficult to splice into this arrangement without making a mess of the clean installation Speidel has. The drain cock can be removed however it looks to be about a 1" fitting welded to the pot that the drain connects to. I think Yambor44 used reinforced tubing and used friction to fit it over the spigot. Hope this helps some.
 
The pump is from Deutsche Vortex "BW 152 o/t"
http://www.en.deutsche-vortex.de/en/
It is intended to distribute heated water in households.

Here you can buy one for 93 Euros or approx. 130 US dollars.
http://www.haustechnik-express.de/product_info.php?products_id=783
(edit: this pump in the link has 1/2" plumbing on the housing. The Speidel is bigger, looks like about 20mm. The part # of the Speidel pump-housing is 101.101.350. The motor and rotor will be the same.

The pump is not involved in moving the wort out of the braumeister. That would involve some replumbing. Tight space on the 20 liter, don't know if there's room for a T on the 50..

Another way can be to lower a pipe into the "out hole" for the pump at the bottom of the unit and running a hose from that into another container, on the sprinciple of this recirculating device that a fellow norwegian user invented:
http://www.bryggeri.net/utstyr/brygging-med-speidel-braumeister!/500/

It's made from two 12mm (1/2" should be close enough) copper bends and pipe. The short piece is 12 cm and the long 43cm (for the 20l).
This thing works (recirkulates wort to the top of the malt-pipe which is rised during mash-out). I made one and used it a couple of times but haven't lately as the wort is clear without it and it is a bit tricky to get it in place with the malt-pipe in.
Anyhow it can lift wort from the bottom up over the edge so it should be fine for filling a container. Trub in the pump can become an issue, though.
 
rnarzisi said:
Thanks for the prompt replies.
Click to expand...

I think hfk2's method would be your best option to pump to a higher conical type fermenter. The pump was not involved with my method in the video. I simply slid a 3/8" ID braided hose over the spigot to get a better flow.

You can unscrew part of the spigot but part of it is welded into place as mentioned by hfk2.

 
Overall, as far as this unit is concerned I am very satisfied and pleased with the initial performance. So much so that I am concerned it was a fluke! BUT....with Speidels reputation for quality products and the outstanding customer service I have received from Thorsten here in Florida at MoreBeer4u.com , I am so excited and full of energy about my future brew sessions!!

I am so thankful for my journey to get to this point as I have learned a ton about the brewing process. With that being said, I am even more excited about my future hobby with this unit and do not have one reservation about the money spent!
 
beefeater said:
The pump is from Deutsche Vortex "BW 152 o/t"
http://www.en.deutsche-vortex.de/en/
It is intended to distribute heated water in households.

Here you can buy one for 93 Euros or approx. 130 US dollars.
http://www.haustechnik-express.de/product_info.php?products_id=783
(edit: this pump in the link has 1/2" plumbing on the housing. The Speidel is bigger, looks like about 20mm. The part # of the Speidel pump-housing is 101.101.350. The motor and rotor will be the same.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pump info beefeater! Unfortunately I don't think that they make one large enough for me to do 20gal batches, I'd have to run 4 pumps to get enough power. I'll have to just stick with my LG 3-MD-HC. Would have been nice to be able to pull a pump apart like that using no tools.
 
I am also very happy with the performance of this unit. I just got my new crankandstein 3D mill today so tomorrow will be a brew day and i will try and document as well as yambor did. I have a matco tool chest that works fine to store everything but... when it comes to brewing its to high . i find myself having to use a step stool to look at the wort and to remove the grain tube damn its not easy. see pics I have alot of grain to gind!

IMG-20110325-00159.jpg


IMG-20110325-00162.jpg


IMG-20110330-00223.jpg
 
Nice set up, I especially like the alternate use of that nice felt covered table. Are you using any type of dip tube or tilting the pot as Speidel instructs. Did you get much debris in the fermenter. My efficiencies was 78%, that was recirculating and a single sparge of about 2 3/4 gallons. I see others are getting high efficiencies without the sparge. Are you adding water before you boil. Just curious because it takes so long to sample the finished product.
 
Yambor44 said:
I wonder if the default "rest" phases have anything to with it?
Click to expand...

How long is the total mash with the rests? Or what is the mash schedule? A longer mash will certainly give you higher efficiencies and extract more sugar from the grain.
 
I didn't use the default mash schedule. I used what I had done in the past, but now I'm wondering if you are right about the Speidel mash schedule being more efficient. I think I'll try their schedule next time I brew. My total mash time was 100 minutes not including the time to get to temperature. I'd guess there was another 20 to 30 minutes total time getting temperatures to the next rest level.
 
i brewed my batch of biermunchers centennial.

i have to check my notes but i think i started with 5.5 gallons of water and ended up with 5.2 gallons of wort. I kept the lid on during the whole process except hop additions and it does a great job at keeping the steam in only letting out a bit through the vents in the lid.

I also just whirlpooled at the final minute of the boil, then tilted the braumeister to get the last of the wort out. what was left was maybe a 1/8-1/4 gallon of trub and gunk at the bottom so more than likely my final wort collection was around 5 gallons.
 
Good question. I'm estimating I boil off about 3 liters. That's about half of what I would get with the propane burners. The center post has three marks. One at 15 liters, one at 20 liters and the top one is at 25 liters. The instructions say to put 23 liters in the pot to mash. Mathematically if I start with 23 liters and sparge with 9.5 liters (2.5 gals) and the grains absorb roughly 3.8 liters (1 gal) that leaves me with 28.7 liters before the boil. I end up a little above the top mark on the center post which is 25 liters (6.6 gals). That would be a little over 3 liters. I've brewed twice with this, so hopefully 3's the charm. I'll try sparging with 1.5 gallons and that should get me closer to my target of 5.5 gals finished. It will be interesting to see what happens to efficiencies. Let me know if I'm missing something.
 
wyzazz said:
How long is the total mash with the rests? Or what is the mash schedule? A longer mash will certainly give you higher efficiencies and extract more sugar from the grain.
Click to expand...

1 Phase/Rest 5 mins at 65 c
2 Phase/Rest 30 mins at 65 c again
3 Phase/Rest 30 mins at 73 c
4 Phase/Rest 15 mins at 78 c

I thought jumping to 73c (163.4F) after only 35 minutes 65c (149F) was too hot too soon but probably took another 5 or so minutes to get there. I didn't notice how long it took just guessing.

Still, doesn't that seem too soon to go that hot?
 
hfk2 according to ProMash your numbers look solid. Granted your numbers are based on a 90 minute boil it looks to be around 8% per hour.

-Chris

waterNeededScreenshot.jpg
 
Yambor44 said:
1 Phase/Rest 5 mins at 65 c
2 Phase/Rest 30 mins at 65 c again
3 Phase/Rest 30 mins at 73 c
4 Phase/Rest 15 mins at 78 c

I thought jumping to 73c (163.4F) after only 35 minutes 65c (149F) was too hot too soon but probably took another 5 or so minutes to get there. I didn't notice how long it took just guessing.

Still, doesn't that seem too soon to go that hot?
Click to expand...

The 65C (149F) looks to be a Beta Glucan Rest to break down the cell walls of the starches, making them more accessible to be extracted. The Beta Amylase will also work at this temp.

Going to 73C (163F) so quickly seems odd to me, but the Alpha Amylase might still be working at this temp, I'm not sure.

Then again, another thought is that most starch conversion is complete in around 30mins, after that you're really just extracting sugars in the mash and a higher temperature would certainly help that.

Is the "complicated" mash stepping that's pre-programmed in to the Braumeister necessary? Probably not. Is it hurting anything? Again, probably not.
 
Thanks Clasley, I'll make the % adjustment in my Beer Smith program and see if the numbers all fit. I think I was using 11%. With propane I was at 13%.
 
Yambor44 this was my last mash schedule. At the end I tested for starch conversion and had full conversion. Our numbers are really close. My protein rest was longer at a lower temperature, but otherwise really close everywhere else.

Protein rest 15 min @52C
Beta amylase rest 35 min @ 63C
Alpha amylase rest 35 min @ 70C
Mash out 15 min @ 78C
 
clasley said:
Basic Brewing Radio released their weekly podcast today with an interview of Jan Halvor Fjeld, this past year's Norwegian home brewer of the year and Braumeister user. Good interview with lots of talk on Jan's experience using his 20L Braumesiter.

http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio

-Chris
Click to expand...

You know Chris, you're already done on buying one of these....the question is, 20l or 50l? :D :mug:
 
clasley said:
Basic Brewing Radio released their weekly podcast today with an interview of Jan Halvor Fjeld, this past year's Norwegian home brewer of the year and Braumeister user. Good interview with lots of talk on Jan's experience using his 20L Braumesiter.

http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio

-Chris
Click to expand...

This was a good interview. Not only has he produced award-winning beer, but he mentions several other Norwegian brewers who won contests using the Speidel system. He's obviously got quite a bit of experience with it, because he mentions having to dismantle the pump for cleaning after 50 batches.
 

Similar threads

Clint Yeastwood
Speidel Sent me a Braumeister Cable
Replies
11
Views
2K
Clint Yeastwood
Clint Yeastwood
Daves Hopfenstube
Servus from Germany!
Replies
4
Views
206
ncbrewer
N
Clint Yeastwood
Prose from the Pros
Replies
6
Views
464
DBhomebrew
DBhomebrew
R
Buying Orings and such
Replies
4
Views
375
Snowkiwi
S
L
Kombucha Machine
Replies
5
Views
1K
David Zhang
David Zhang

Latest posts

Back
Top