Seasoning a NEW rifle barrel

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Just bought a new Ruger hunting rifle and a hunting buddy asked me what I knew about seasoning the barrel with a sequence of shot groups and cleanings.
Recommended process is at least 50 rounds and like 10 cleanings.

Anyone ever done this or know about the process?

The online literature varies on both sides of the argument.
 
Dude just lube it up shoot the **** out of it, then clean and lube. No matter what you do a gat just needs to be broken in and gotten used to, there's no easy quick fix to make a gun shoot well, you just have to break it in and learn it.
 
In my opinion, a special process for seasoning a barrel is akin to knocking on wood. It may make you feel better, but it won't make a damn bit of difference.

"Seasoning a barrel" should be called "seasoning a shooter." What it boils down to is a person needs to spend some time with their new gun to learn how to really shoot it. It takes quite a few rounds down range to get a gun (shooter) seasoned.

I prefer to call it "practice." In other words, take your damn gun to the range and shoot the **** out of it!
 
What Max said.

Ruger makes a fine firearm. It's not an 1800s muzzleloader.

Other than to season the shooter, you do want to shoot the hell out of it to ensure it's likely to go bang every time and see how it groups.
 
I'm gonna enjoy toting that feather around the woods this fall instead of my old semi auto
 
I planned on putting between 15 and 20 rounds through it over a 2 day period with multiple cleanings to make sure that it is accurate.
 
A local long range shooter told me to shoot 3 clean shoot 3 clean etc. Helps lap in the barrel and smooth out the rough spots and tooling marks. Also the early cleaning helps with copper build up so its not such a chore at the end. They make special abrasive coated bullets for this process, but in no way am I gonna shoot sandpaper 3100 fps down my new stainless barrel.
 
Yeah, the articles I read mentioned a single shot then clean thoroughly. Repeat this 3 times.
Then 3 shot and clean x3
Then 5 shot and clean x5
But the purpose was to polish the inside of the barrel without incorporating copper fouling into the actual barrel polishing.

It seems like a PITA to do by their rules, but it has sound theory to back it up.
 
Trigger time is the only thing that'll help, and always shooting fundamentals. 90% of problems are operator based.
 
Yeah, the articles I read mentioned a single shot then clean thoroughly. Repeat this 3 times.
Then 3 shot and clean x3
Then 5 shot and clean x5
But the purpose was to polish the inside of the barrel without incorporating copper fouling into the actual barrel polishing.

It seems like a PITA to do by their rules, but it has sound theory to back it up.

To achieve repeatable accuracy.

Trigger time is the only thing that'll help, and always shooting fundamentals. 90% of problems are operator based.

I agree but if you wreck the potential accuracy of a barrel, no amount of skill will make up the difference.
 
unless the barrel has something in it that it's not supposed to or if the weapon is put together improperly(or a ****ty gun) then the barrel just needs to be broken in with rounds. How does that ruin the potential for accuracy?
 
unless the barrel has something in it that it's not supposed to or if the weapon is put together improperly(or a ****ty gun) then the barrel just needs to be broken in with rounds. How does that ruin the potential for accuracy?

from BallisticStudies:
Sometimes, a rifle barrel may have a burr on the rifling land edge, seen as long flake. If the burr is thick, hand lapping operations will fail to break it away from the land. Worse still, if the rifle has been fired several times, the burr becomes forged into a lump type anomaly, wedged into a groove


Ultimately, the end user has final control over the finish of the bore. If the bore is of a high finish, the bore will need nothing more than normal cleaning/de-fouling operations. If the bore is rough, it will need final finishing by hand which for want a better term is called ‘breaking in’ the barrel.

Kriegerbarrels:
If it is not finish-lapped, there will be reamer marks left in the bore that are directly across the direction of the bullet travel. This occurs even in a button-rifled barrel as the button cannot completely iron out these reamer marks.

Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file.

When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat.

If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat “polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure.

Every barrel will vary slightly in how many rounds they take to break in For example a chrome moly barrel may take longer to break in than stainless steel because it is more abrasion resistant even though it is a similar hardness. Also chrome moly has a little more of an affinity for copper than stainless steel so it will usually show a little more color if you are using a chemical cleaner. Rim Fire barrels can take an extremely long time to break in, sometimes requiring several hundred rounds or more. But cleaning can be lengthened to every 25-50 rounds. The break-in procedure and the cleaning procedure are really the same except for the frequency. Remember the goal is to get or keep the barrel clean while breaking in the throat with bullets being fired over it.

Finally, the best way to tell if the barrel is broken in is to observe the patches; i.e. when the fouling is reduced. This is better than some set number of cycles of shoot and clean as many owners report practically no fouling after the first few shots, and more break-in would be pointless. Conversely, if more is required, a set number would not address that either. Besides, cleaning is not a completely benign procedure so it should be done carefully and no more than necessary.


Cabelas:
Don't be in too much of a rush. Plan on investing some serious time in breaking in, or seasoning, the barrel on that first outing. That is, if you want to extend the life of the rifle and increase its potential for consistent accuracy.

The breaking-in process is important because it will smooth any imperfections left in the bore from the manufacturing process, according to Cabela's gunsmith David Orten. If not dealt with properly, the imperfections can adversely affect your rifle's performance.

me:
I've also heard it described as similar to a washboard road. I tooling mark or burr forces the bullet to the side creating a an uneven wear spot. The previous wear spot creates a following wear spot etc.

Whether truth or myth I don't want to take the chance of killing the accuracy because I didn't think a break in period was needed. Besides it means I get to shoot more and I like to shoot.:D
 
Finally, the best way to tell if the barrel is broken in is to observe the patches; i.e. when the fouling is reduced. This is better than some set number of cycles of shoot and clean as many owners report practically no fouling after the first few shots, and more break-in would be pointless. Conversely, if more is required, a set number would not address that either. Besides, cleaning is not a completely benign procedure so it should be done carefully and no more than necessary.
This seems like the most practical advice given so far. Shoot 1-3 rounds and clean a few times. If you aren't getting any copper fouling (blue residue with a GOOD bore cleaner), you're done. Then, don't clean your gun like it's a religion. Wipe off the powder residue and oil lightly after most range trips. Thoroughly clean once in a while to keep the buildup down (or after shooting cheap, dirty ammo). Shy away from cheap surplus ammo, especially if it's old import stuff - corrosive primers are a great way to ruin a quality barrel. Always use quality cleaning components, and use them correctly.
 
from BallisticStudies:
Sometimes, a rifle barrel may have a burr on the rifling land edge, seen as long flake. If the burr is thick, hand lapping operations will fail to break it away from the land. Worse still, if the rifle has been fired several times, the burr becomes forged into a lump type anomaly, wedged into a groove


Ultimately, the end user has final control over the finish of the bore. If the bore is of a high finish, the bore will need nothing more than normal cleaning/de-fouling operations. If the bore is rough, it will need final finishing by hand which for want a better term is called ‘breaking in’ the barrel.

Kriegerbarrels:
If it is not finish-lapped, there will be reamer marks left in the bore that are directly across the direction of the bullet travel. This occurs even in a button-rifled barrel as the button cannot completely iron out these reamer marks.

Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file.

When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat.

If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat “polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure.

Every barrel will vary slightly in how many rounds they take to break in For example a chrome moly barrel may take longer to break in than stainless steel because it is more abrasion resistant even though it is a similar hardness. Also chrome moly has a little more of an affinity for copper than stainless steel so it will usually show a little more color if you are using a chemical cleaner. Rim Fire barrels can take an extremely long time to break in, sometimes requiring several hundred rounds or more. But cleaning can be lengthened to every 25-50 rounds. The break-in procedure and the cleaning procedure are really the same except for the frequency. Remember the goal is to get or keep the barrel clean while breaking in the throat with bullets being fired over it.

Finally, the best way to tell if the barrel is broken in is to observe the patches; i.e. when the fouling is reduced. This is better than some set number of cycles of shoot and clean as many owners report practically no fouling after the first few shots, and more break-in would be pointless. Conversely, if more is required, a set number would not address that either. Besides, cleaning is not a completely benign procedure so it should be done carefully and no more than necessary.


Cabelas:
Don't be in too much of a rush. Plan on investing some serious time in breaking in, or seasoning, the barrel on that first outing. That is, if you want to extend the life of the rifle and increase its potential for consistent accuracy.

The breaking-in process is important because it will smooth any imperfections left in the bore from the manufacturing process, according to Cabela's gunsmith David Orten. If not dealt with properly, the imperfections can adversely affect your rifle's performance.

me:
I've also heard it described as similar to a washboard road. I tooling mark or burr forces the bullet to the side creating a an uneven wear spot. The previous wear spot creates a following wear spot etc.

Whether truth or myth I don't want to take the chance of killing the accuracy because I didn't think a break in period was needed. Besides it means I get to shoot more and I like to shoot.:D

Great advice & very well said Jinks!
Regards, GF. :mug:
 
If you shoot 20 or 40 rounds year don't bother but if you like to Shoot and want to get the most that you can from the rifle then Jinks has shoed you what to do.:)
 
If you shoot 20 or 40 rounds year don't bother but if you like to Shoot and want to get the most that you can from the rifle then Jinks has showed you what to do.:)

Perhaps my OP was confusing, and I apologize for that.
Jinks just verified what I had already read online about the process and reasons for doing a very specific process that could use in excess of 50 to 100 rounds. I was not specifically looking for a process to follow, just mostly a "what do you firearms savvy folks think about this process for a common prodution hunting rifle."
If I was a competitive shooter with a 4 or 5 thousand dollar gun and wanted sub-MOA accuracy, then $50 worth of ammo through a 5K rifle would not seem to be in excess.
For a hunting rifle that does not necessarily need sub-MOA accuracy, it seems like overkill.

I think that the key points are to clean the rifle CORRECTLY when you do clean it.
Cleaning is not a benign process, if done incorrectly it can actually compound an already existing problem and ruin the barrel.
 
from BallisticStudies:
Sometimes, a rifle barrel may have a burr on the rifling land edge, seen as long flake. If the burr is thick, hand lapping operations will fail to break it away from the land. Worse still, if the rifle has been fired several times, the burr becomes forged into a lump type anomaly, wedged into a groove


Ultimately, the end user has final control over the finish of the bore. If the bore is of a high finish, the bore will need nothing more than normal cleaning/de-fouling operations. If the bore is rough, it will need final finishing by hand which for want a better term is called ‘breaking in’ the barrel.

Kriegerbarrels:
If it is not finish-lapped, there will be reamer marks left in the bore that are directly across the direction of the bullet travel. This occurs even in a button-rifled barrel as the button cannot completely iron out these reamer marks.

Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file.

When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat.

If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat “polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure.

Every barrel will vary slightly in how many rounds they take to break in For example a chrome moly barrel may take longer to break in than stainless steel because it is more abrasion resistant even though it is a similar hardness. Also chrome moly has a little more of an affinity for copper than stainless steel so it will usually show a little more color if you are using a chemical cleaner. Rim Fire barrels can take an extremely long time to break in, sometimes requiring several hundred rounds or more. But cleaning can be lengthened to every 25-50 rounds. The break-in procedure and the cleaning procedure are really the same except for the frequency. Remember the goal is to get or keep the barrel clean while breaking in the throat with bullets being fired over it.

Finally, the best way to tell if the barrel is broken in is to observe the patches; i.e. when the fouling is reduced. This is better than some set number of cycles of shoot and clean as many owners report practically no fouling after the first few shots, and more break-in would be pointless. Conversely, if more is required, a set number would not address that either. Besides, cleaning is not a completely benign procedure so it should be done carefully and no more than necessary.


Cabelas:
Don't be in too much of a rush. Plan on investing some serious time in breaking in, or seasoning, the barrel on that first outing. That is, if you want to extend the life of the rifle and increase its potential for consistent accuracy.

The breaking-in process is important because it will smooth any imperfections left in the bore from the manufacturing process, according to Cabela's gunsmith David Orten. If not dealt with properly, the imperfections can adversely affect your rifle's performance.

me:
I've also heard it described as similar to a washboard road. I tooling mark or burr forces the bullet to the side creating a an uneven wear spot. The previous wear spot creates a following wear spot etc.

Whether truth or myth I don't want to take the chance of killing the accuracy because I didn't think a break in period was needed. Besides it means I get to shoot more and I like to shoot.:D

Burrs and things are why you inspect a weapon before using it, as well as clean and lube it properly. If you do the things I have said then those aren't a problem. Lol when I first saw this I immediately though "Mother Flucker" haha
 
Personally, I hand lap against the bullet travel, shoot 1, clean, shoot 2, clean, shoot 3, clean. Hand lap with the bullet travel (hard to do if your barrel does not detach) then the fire 1, clean, fire 2, clean, fire 3 clean routine. But honestly, these are all bench rest guns, my 30-06 is 60 years old (MC52, bear cub scope was destroyed in 1980) and will place 5 shots in a dinner plate group (the 6th is ALWAYS a flier) at 500 yards on my bench rest and has nearly 100,000 rounds down the barrel, several cases of WWll ammo have been pushed down this ole girl. It was "seasoned" in Korea by my uncle Andy where he lost his right leg.

If you love it, shoot it and clean it, learn what it tells you, hold over to the place she wants to hit and get a box of everything they make for it to find out what the most accurate round is in that particular barrel. My MC52 (M1 Garand for the Marines) loves armor piercing ammo from the 1950's, any Nosler round and its better to just throw the 52 at them!
 
If you love it, shoot it and clean it, learn what it tells you, hold over to the place she wants to hit and get a box of everything they make for it to find out what the most accurate round is in that particular barrel.

If my grandfather was alive, you and he would be friends.
He always taught us that a gun was an extension of you.
Take care of her... shoot and clean it with as much care and precision as she deserves.
When the time comes, your gun will never let you down.

Great advice Firewalker...!
 
Burrs and things are why you inspect a weapon before using it, as well as clean and lube it properly. If you do the things I have said then those aren't a problem. Lol when I first saw this I immediately though "Mother Flucker" haha

I don't have the tools to spot burrs down the barrel so I will continue to season with the shoot,clean, shoot clean, method, to hopefully retain the intrinsic accuracy of the barrel as well as potentially extend its accuracy lifespan.

Each person has to determine what they want performance wise from the rifle, I want mine to be all it can be.
I'm a bad enough shot I don't need the firearm making it worse.:cross:
 
I don't have the tools to spot burrs down the barrel so I will continue to season with the shoot,clean, shoot clean, method, to hopefully retain the intrinsic accuracy of the barrel as well as potentially extend its accuracy lifespan.

Each person has to determine what they want performance wise from the rifle, I want mine to be all it can be.
I'm a bad enough shot I don't need the firearm making it worse.:cross:

Bore scopes are very new (relatively) and burrs are as old as barrels. hand lapping one way and the other breaks off burrs and smooths them.
 
I broke in my Savage Axis 308. 40 rounds running a bore snake after each shot giving the barrel time to cool. This was done over a three day period. Mind you this is not an expensive rifle and I modded it. It shoots Moa now "not sub"
 
So, what did you get and when do we get to see it?

Here it is.

This is the stock photo from RUGER, but it will have to do for now.

35.5" long
6#11oz with scope on it
.308 caliber

Cannot wait to wander around the woods this fall and not have my arms fall off from carrying a 9# gun around.

37137.jpg
 
Nice rifle! Have you shot it yet? How is the kick compared to the other rifle? You probably know this, with all else the same a reduction in weight will make the perceived recoil increase.
 
I have not shot it yet, but I shot a Remington Model 7, which is comparable.
Yes, it kicks like a mule.
Not to mention that I am going from a semi-auto to this bolt action, so the kick is much worse.
 
So there would be no better way to celebrate 'Murica yesterday than shooting guns, drinking homebrew and munching on burgers and chicken (YES>>> in that order)

Brother had a huge surprise for me and purchased me a beautiful Leupold scope for my rifle. Mounted and bore sighted.
Put a total of 15 rounds down range through this rifle and as I suspected, it tends to hurt the shoulder after the 5th shot.

Shot 1, cleaned
Shot 2, cleaned
shot 3, cleaned
each repetition was done with plenty of time for then barrel to cool and a thorough cleaning.

Waited about an hour and then shot a group of 5 at 100 yds (3" spread on the group, all within 2" of dead center.
Cleaned

Shot another group of 5 with almost exact same precision and then cleaned it one last time.

Overall, I am impressed with the weapon and my shoulder is a little stiff today. When the time comes during the season, I have great confidence with this gun. It is gonna feel nice to be able to walk around all day in the woods carrying a 7# rifle.:mug:
 
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