How easy is it to punch holes in a Blichmann pot to go electric?

I'm designing a 3-pot electric setup and am considering Blichmann brew pots for BK, HLT, MLT.

How easy is it to punch holes into these pots to put heating elements and temp sensors in place? Is this something I could do myself with a good step drill like this:



Or should I consider having it professionally done (since I'll need welding done anyway)?

I used one of these step drills to punch 4 holes in my stainless steel faucet back-splash and that was a royal pain. SS is s ***** to drill through.

Kal

If it were me, on a Blichman, and it is going to the weld shop anyway, Id have them punch the holes for me. But this is coming from a guy with (2) Rubbermaild coolers!

I converted my 15 gallon SS kettle into an electric HLT a few months ago. My dad had a friend/co-worker drill the holes and do the welding. Its a thing of beauty. We save tons of time and propane on brew day from heating mash and sparge water. I wish we had done it sooner. Good luck with your set-up!

If you're planning on paying all that money for a pot and then to also have it welded, you might as well pay the little bit extra and have them put the hole in it. If they screw it up some how, they'll be responsible to make it right (in a perfect world). If you screw it up, it's your nickel.

Good points guys. So I take it most shops shouldn't have any problems punching holes and welding in some sort of threaded connector that could take a heating element or two?

I suppose my other question is: Is it recommended to go with a welded fitting? Any way to put in heating elements without welding or should I not even consider it. Some of the spigot options out there are weldless.... you just punch the hole and tighten the fitting.

Kal

If you have the BLING for a Blichman, hell, Id get it all welded up, especially the fittings for the water heater elements. It will be tight... cant wait to see it!

I think I'd get a keg and set that up as the hlt with the hot water heater elements instead of knocking holes in the blichmann. Kegs are cheap!

btw, friend of mine used basic tools and converted my two kegs for me, including holes for spigots and site glasses.

Id prefer SS kegs to Blichmans too, for the simple reason that you are saving what, $1500 on kettles alone? BLichmans are nice, but I am the sort of guy that wont buy one thing over another for more $$ when they perform equally well.

BUT, if you want the Blich, get the Blich!

In defense of the Blichmann...

1) I think that kettles offer several advantages over keggles such as, shape (flat bottom and cylindrical straight sides), handles, nice fitting lid, looks, and overall quality. Looks are important to some people and keggles just plain don't look as nice.

2) The Blichmann's are very competitively priced. If you acquire a keg legally (I know most don't, but I think we have to assume that you will) and add all the features offered by the Blichmann, you will not save that much money. Also, you will have invested a bunch of time finding all the fittings, drilling a bunch of holes, and installing everything. At the end of the build day, you will have a keggle that looks rather inferior to the Blichmann and will have spent almost as much.

3) The Blichmann has some pretty awesome features. Stepped bottom, snap in pick up, sight glass, adjustable thermometer, and three piece ball valve.

Overall I think you're descision to go Bling is a good one. I am going the same route. I will be cutting my own holes and going all weldless on mine. If you hae a good bit and a good corded drill, you can do your own holes. However, if you are not 100% confident, it may be worth the cost to have a pro do it.

Current prices from NB:

HTL: Blichmann Boilermaker 15 gal $369

MLT: Blichmann Boilermaker 15 gal $369
False bottom $75
Strainer $39

BK: Blichmann Boilermaker 20 gal $399
Strainer $39

Total: $1290

The kettles come with glass sights, Blichmann thermometers, Blichmann stainless valves, etc.

SS kegs is another option but it's more labour to get set up the same way plus all the research as I'd want to do it right (I'm pretty anal about my hobbies ). I'm ready to spend the $3K or so I figure it'll take it get everything set up with my AG setup knowing fully well that I could do it for 1/10th the cost too and have the same beer in the end. I'm not in this hobby to save as much as possible (IMHO it's actually a very cheap hobby even with a $3-5K AG setup that'll last you for life). For once in my life I actually have more money than time so I'm limiting the labour to the things where there's no alternative or where it can actually get me something better than store-bought.

I've been watching guys around my neck of the woods futz endlessly with their AG setups on brew-day so I know right off the bat that I want an electric 'set and forget' setup with known GOOD equipment so that I can focus on the process and recipes instead of fighting with the equipment. Everyone's needs are different of course. Thanks for the input guys!

Kal

Boerderij Kabouter: You summed up my thoughts better than me.

Boerderij Kabouter said:

Overall I think you're descision to go Bling is a good one. I am going the same route. I will be cutting my own holes and going all weldless on mine. If you hae a good bit and a good corded drill, you can do your own holes. However, if you are not 100% confident, it may be worth the cost to have a pro do it.

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Good to know. I do have a good step-drill bit like the one in the original post. Most expensive drill bit I ever bought!

I needed to drill through this SS drip-tray/backsplash from morebeer.com to install the taps:



It's made out of 304 stainless steel and was a real bear to get through with a corded hand-held drill (I don't have a press drill). Thankfully the wood between the taps and the backsplash help hide some of the inperfections.

I suppose what I'm asking is: Is the SS in Blichmann kettles as hard to get through as 304 SS? If yes, I'll probably get a pro with a press to do the work.

Will yours be an electric setup? If no, what are you punching holes for? Got any links for the weldless items you'll be installing?

I haven't followed the weldless vs welded thoughts here. Is weldless truly as good?

Kal

The Blichmann is made of high quality SS so, yes, it will be just as hard or harder. How did you drill your holes? I think the best way is to use a regular metal bit for an undersized hole. Then enlarge that hole one or two steps with your step bit for a finished hole. This will be a MUCH easier process than going at it with the step from the start.

Check out my sig for my build thread. I have since changed my ideas and will be using the Blichmanns, but the design is the same. My HLT will have an electric element and I will be installing it weldlessly. Weldless kits are pretty straight forward, nipple through the side wall, nuts on both sides, and a silicon washer on the outside.

Boerderij Kabouter said:

The Blichmann is made of high quality SS so, yes, it will be just as hard or harder. How did you drill your holes? I think the best way is to use a regular metal bit for an undersized hole. Then enlarge that hole one or two steps with your step bit for a finished hole.

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That's exactly what I did. The SS was simply very hard (and reasonably thin) that it was hard to get through without it warping/buckling.

A drill press with some mechanism to lock the item securily in place and with a block of wood underneath to drill into would have been easier.

If I can get holes punched quickly/easily and use weldless I'll probably get a shop to do it as it'll likely be cheap too. I'll be curious to hear how well your hole drilling goes. Do you have the Blichmann's yet?

Check out my sig for my build thread. I have since changed my ideas and will be using the Blichmanns, but the design is the same.

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Excellent. I'll analyze it in further detail later tonight. I may have to start using SketchUp as well.

My HLT will have an electric element and I will be installing it weldlessly. Weldless kits are pretty straight forward, nipple through the side wall, nuts on both sides, and a silicon washer on the outside.

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Why not electric for the BK as well? Just curious.

Kal

kal said:

Why not electric for the BK as well? Just curious.

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I like using the flame and have the fear of direct contact between wort and a heating element. Unfounded I know, just personal preference.

No I don't have my kettles yet, I am still using my 3 keggle system now and saving for my new ones. I think I should be able to get me first kettle sometime shortly after Christmas.

Boerderij Kabouter said:

I like using the flame and have the fear of direct contact between wort and a heating element. Unfounded I know, just personal preference.

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Glad to hear someone actually say it's unfounded. Been reading about the fears of ofcaramelization of wort from heating elements and nobody seems to have any proof of it. Electric just seems so much easier to me so I've decided to go electric all the way with both the HLT and BK.

No I don't have my kettles yet, I am still using my 3 keggle system now and saving for my new ones. I think I should be able to get me first kettle sometime shortly after Christmas.

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Makes for a nice boxing day gift.

Kal

step bits are easy and quick to use. Most people I hear prefer not to weld due to potential complications due to welding shops that don't normally do work like this. 2 people took welding classes and said they probably wouldn't touch sanitary welding on keggles. Also, weldless allows you to remove or replace fittings if needed.

Hey if weldless is just as good I'll go weldless. It's certainly easier! Thanks guys.

Kal